I’m currently riding a stock standard 2003 Caliente 2003 (53cm) with Spinergy Stealth PBO race wheels (43mm 650c)
I’ve done pretty well on this bike, qualifying and racing Kona in 2007, but then took some time off due to running injury. I came back this year and am now qualified for Vegas 70.3 next September and I want to be riding my new machine well before then.
I really like the ‘idea’ of the new Shiv, so I’m zeroing in on that bike, but have considered (on paper) other bikes, including P4, P3, P2, Scott Plasma 3, Trek Speed Concept, QR CD0.1 - I’m still considering a couple of these, but the Shiv keeps bubbling up in my dreams (those guys at Specialized are marketing geniuses!). I am hooked on the ‘idea’ of the fuselage based hydration, even with the 20oz limitation.
Questions on the new (non UCI compliant) Shiv:
is S-Works worth the extra $$? I mean, what’s the deal? Weight? Stiffness? Will this translate into significantly more power transfer? Faster starts? Better cornering? WIll it matter at a course like Vegas 70.3? - so is this FACT IS 11r Carbon so much better than FACT IS 10r Carbon? What’s the deal - big-time price difference
What kind of deal can I expect from a LBS? I mean, what is normal for a new model bike? 10%? 15%? 0%? List price for the complete bike Shiv Pro Red is $5,100 and I’m leaning in this direction, but I also have to buy a new race wheelset (650c on the old bike). If I have to pay list for this bike + a decent set of race wheels=outside of budget (goal is under $5K total, but could go over a tad)
Any Upgrades I should consider? I’m considering ceramic BB and of course race wheels. Anything else I should consider on this machine. Seems very well equipped.
Durability? Will this bike hold up over time. I have to say, I have over 20k miles on the QR and it’s been hanging in there just fine with normal wear and tear replacment of chains, cassettes, and bb - Can I expect the same from this bike and the SRAM Red component group?
Of course I would really like a test drive - just wish they were available before the snow hits!
No the S-works isn’t worth it. Buy the cheapest frame of the same shape as the S-works.
You can expect 10% off retail at best. Maybe not. Maybe pay wholesale. Depends on you and your LBS. Sounds like you will be paying retail since you are asking.
Ceramic bottom bracket and anything better than 105 or SRAM Rival = severely diminishing returns.
Buy a disc cover and a used front race wheel.
Any bike of that caliber will lilkely outlast your interest in it.
Do you have the money? If you, buy what floats your boat–this is suppossed to be fun, and buying a bike is very fun! Otherwise, I can’t help you. I’m upgrading after 6 years and I’m going for the BMC TM01—good enough for Cadel, good enough for me!
No need to go for the S-works. It’s no more aero, just a tad lighter.
One key upgrade would be some Zipp Firecrests instead of the Spinergys. The rim shape is vastly improved, and those round PBO spokes on the Spinergys are an aero disaster (as is the mega-hub).
Why do you recommend a ceramic bottom bracket? Is it that much better than a regular one? I thought I read that ceramic bearings only save you a few watts.
He’s not recommending it (quite the opposite). At most they save 1W; the rpms for a BB are quite low, and most of the drag is in the grease and seals, not the ball/race interface.
do you know the stack and reach of your current bike? what is your stem, spacer and aerobar situation like?
In general, as long as the frames have the same shape = same speed. The higher end Specialized models have a nicer aerobar.
The Shiv is sweet, as is the Speed Concept, CD0.1, P series, Felt DA and Plasma 3.
If $5K includes race wheels, then the Shiv, Felt DA4, CD0.1 and P3 are probably more realistic options.
I think that the Shiv should hold up fine, without an external steerer or too complicated of brakes it is probably as maintainable as any of the current super bikes.
Their mountain bike S-Works line is worth the upgrade but not their bikes. Even in the mountain bike line, the gap is closing. The difference in shocks/fork is big, although with MTB, Road or even SHIV, I’d buy the frame and build it. I did that with my S-Works Epic and got a much better spec’d bike and lighter for less money. I’m not verse in all the triathlon costs so I’m not 100% it’s possible to do the same with the SHIV module. Regardless, there is some joy in building it yourself.
Buy what fits and is on sale from last years models or used especially for wheels. You can get a killer seal on many 2011 bikes right now, add some good wheels in, please get ride of the spinergy, and you’ll be rocking.
No the S-works isn’t worth it. Buy the cheapest frame of the same shape as the S-works.
You can expect 10% off retail at best. Maybe not. Maybe pay wholesale. Depends on you and your LBS. Sounds like you will be paying retail since you are asking.
Ceramic bottom bracket and anything better than 105 or SRAM Rival = severely diminishing returns.
Buy a disc cover and a used front race wheel.
Any bike of that caliber will lilkely outlast your interest in it.
Great feedback Dave - Really got me thinking - The Shiv Comp Rival is $3,300 list, $1,800 less than the Shiv Pro SRAM Red at $5,100. You can buy a damn nice race wheel set with that $1,800. Slight concern about the drop in Stem and Aerobar - hard to make out how much of a difference there will be. Also wondering about the difference in crankset between the 2; the Pro has the Specialized Pro FACT carbon, the Comp Rival model has a FSA Gossamer BB30. Thoughts?
Do you have the money? If you, buy what floats your boat–this is suppossed to be fun, and buying a bike is very fun! Otherwise, I can’t help you. I’m upgrading after 6 years and I’m going for the BMC TM01—good enough for Cadel, good enough for me!
Good advice - just wish the bike was available to test ride - that’s where the fun begins!
I hadn’t really looked at the BMC TM01 yet - looks like a sweet ride. How much is the bike? I can’t seem to find any pricing.
No need to go for the S-works. It’s no more aero, just a tad lighter.
One key upgrade would be some Zipp Firecrests instead of the Spinergys. The rim shape is vastly improved, and those round PBO spokes on the Spinergys are an aero disaster (as is the mega-hub).
Thanks - good to know about the Spinergys - they are better than standard wheels for sure, but I think you’re right - I can do better. Wondering how much time I will shave on a better wheelset alone on a 70.3 course?
aerobars (basebars) are not, that is a pretty important piece of the aero puzzle.
but the old vision aluminum is a great bar and costs almost nothing.
Thanks Jack - good to know. I thought cranks were a bigger part of the puzzle, particularly the weight factor, but haven’t really studied it.
So the Shiv Rival model comes with “Specialized Hydroformed Alloy Aerobar” and the Shiv Pro Red comes with “Specialized Carbon Aerobar” - should I expect to replace the Aero bar if I go with the Rival model.
On the stem question, the Pro Red model comes with “New Specialized S-Works Shiv aero stem” and I’m wondering if you get a more integrated/aero advantage versus the “Specialized EliteSet, 3D forged alloy, 4-position adjustable, 4-bolt, 31.8mm clamp” stem that comes with the Rival model?
A pair of 404 Firecrests with a rear cover is probably 1.5-2 minutes faster over a 70.3 than your current wheels.
As Jack mentioned, base bar profile is important (since they sit out in clean air while you are in the aerobars ). The air doesn’t care if they are carbon or aluminum.