How much of a difference do bike components make. Cranks for example, you can get a good one for half the price as what is considered a great one. Set up a bike with components for less than $1000 or spend $5000. I mean a stock aerobars vs. Zipp Vuka for $1,200 bucks!If you get a good bike with good parts, but not great ones how much of a difference do some of these upgrades make? You could pay 20% more to go from Ultegra to Dura-Ace, but will you even notice a difference as an age grouper? !
Thanks for the input!
Josh
No.
There are some things that people may notice but for the most part, much of the bike can be changed or downgraded and you’ll see no difference at all. 1200 dollar aerobars are for people who have the money and are really picky about their stuff. Even then, the gain they get is mostly mental. Take a look at what Big Mig won his Tours on. If we was racing todaywith his OG gear, do you think his bike would stop him from winning? not at all. IF lance had Ultegra gear and stock bontrager bars and stem, do you think he would have lost one of the tours? No way.
Now. Some parts work better than others for some people. Example, I can’t stant the feel of the Profile arm rests. I like Vision. I’ve use profile, in fact, MOST of the aerbars that I have used have been profile… but I never liked the armrests. Didn’t make me any less fast though. Position did!
The only thing that really will make a difference is wheels, Helmet and position.
Another example. What were Mark and Dave riding in 90?. Had they been racing this year, normann would have had his work cut out for him. Would go so far as to say that Mark still would have won.
…will you even notice a difference as an age grouper?
You won’t notice the difference as a pro, either. At least not in terms of speed.
I can tell the difference between a Dura Ace and Ultregra drive train. The Dura Ace is most certainly not faster, but it just feels smoother and more precise – particularly the STI levers.
there are a few bike companies that spec their sponsored pro triathletes with ultegra. it doesn’t seem to slow them down.
You will learn the feel for what you like and what is actually worth the extra money to you. If you are sticking with Shimano, for example, then 105 is perfectly fine and functional. Stepping up to Ultegra would be good for the rear derailleur only. I feel nothing in cranks from 105 to Dura Ace (except looks and weight). Definitely save money on the brakes. Dura Ace STI shifters are nicer (polished) and shift crisper and may be worth the extra money (but a lot).
So … IMHO, only the front STI levers and rear derailleur are worth upgrading over 105 or Ultegra. Chain, cassette, front der, brakes, etc. makes no perceived diff. to me.
Might spend a little on something you can definitely tell/feel (like a good seat that you like that might be expensive), or tires/wheels.
my opinion
shimano 105 10 speed is plenty for racing at high level(pro)
shimano ultegra 10 speed is a BONUS
shimano dura ace 10 speed is having money to waste
i never been able to see the difference between ultegra and dura ace with the new 10 speed groupo, maybe one is lighter but weight is as imporant as the color of your bike…NOT
.
I like to set people up with a good frame (fits and has nice ride/aero), wheels and aerobars. I have no problem putting 105 on flash frames so that the money can be spent where it will make a difference.
The vision modular set up is a relatively inexpensive option and doesnt take much effort to have a very tidy front end.
I’d recommend Chorus over everything.
I have two bikes: one dura ace and one ultegra. The dura ace shifts better, but the replacement chain and cassette are twice as much as ultegra. I bought one dura ace chain and cassette and the next one will be an ultegra replacement. I don’t think I will see any difference. Don.
Thanks for the input - this info is definitely usefull!
Josh
How much of a difference do bike components make. Cranks for example, you can get a good one for half the price as what is considered a great one. Set up a bike with components for less than $1000 or spend $5000. I mean a stock aerobars vs. Zipp Vuka for $1,200 bucks!If you get a good bike with good parts, but not great ones how much of a difference do some of these upgrades make? You could pay 20% more to go from Ultegra to Dura-Ace, but will you even notice a difference as an age grouper? !
Thanks for the input!
Josh
Well, as far as the STI shifters and the rear d, I actually think you’re better off going with the D/A. They’re certainly not any ‘faster’, but in my experience, if you ride a lot, they hold up a lot better. I got 5 seasons on my D/A 9 speed stuff, and I’m on 3 on my 10 speed, lots of it in lousy weather. During that time, I’ve seen a lot of 105 stuff just wear out on teammates’ bikes.
You can get more than 5 on them. You can rebuild shimano STI. I had mine rebuilt about 3 times in 7 years and they’re still great shifters.
I should say you can rebuild 9 speed. I’m sure that 10 are the same but I don’t know for sure.
Ultegra was crap though. at least in 9speed.
You can get more than 5 on them. You can rebuild shimano STI. I had mine rebuilt about 3 times in 7 years and they’re still great shifters.
I should say you can rebuild 9 speed. I’m sure that 10 are the same but I don’t know for sure.
Ultegra was crap though. at least in 9speed.
Oh yeah, I agree with the ‘more than 5 season’ thing. I should have mentioned that I sold them to someone who’s been using them since, and they’re still going strong. I just got rid of them because 9 speed wheels stopped showing up in neutral support vehicles. Otherwise, I never would have switched. I actually got some money for them too! I 5 year old pair of Ultegra shifters? I really don’t see those as having much value besides paperweights–though maybe the 10 spd hold up better. That’s why I’d say go for Dura Ace.
when your talking about the difference of shifting with the new 10 speed groupo between dura ace and ultegra…can you really see a difference? are you handy mechanicly? i think i could set 2 bikes with perfect shifting well lube and you will never feel a difference…maybe you will…i personaly cant. and from what i understand, the ultegra 10 speed is pretty much the first version of dura ace 10 speed when it came out…so it s basicly a dura ace product…
but would definitly agree that with 9 speed…there is a definitive difference…dura ace rock…
IMO, it’s moot…
With the emergence of other groupos (SRAM) and component offerings (Tektro/Truvativ (SRAM), Chris King, Stronglight, Zero, Wipperman, etc), the “Ultegra vs. Dura Ace” debate makes less sense. Many companies are spec’ing a mix of parts (sometimes even 105/DA) on their bikes to create the most value and up-sell opportunity. It’s hard to find a true groupo-specific bike. Further, it makes less sense to buy a complete groupo for an upgrade as you’ld be better served with different parts in both performance and price.
Most manufacturers don’t like selling all Shimano…and Campy is too niche. This only helps the a la carte players.
That said, we could always discuss the specific part (cranks or brakes are always a hot topic).
I’m with Sojouner. Campy rules! I have everything from Record (stupid expensive and only worthwhile if you ride a ton of miles or your frame is something special) to Veloce (heavy but lasts a long time and can be rebuilt by my LBS when something wears out or is crashed). Chorus is my most frequent choice as a good trade-off between price and performance.
Based on what I’ve seen with Shimano at our club and at races, I would only use Dura-Ace for shifters unless I wasn’t riding more than a couple of thousand kim per year or might crash on the bike (e.g cross) because it seems to last longer. However, Ultegra seems fine for the other parts and 105 would do in a pinch, certainly for something like brakes.
A good mechanic can make 105 shift as well as DA or Veloce shift as well as Record. The cheaper stuff might need more fiddling to keep it shifting well though.
For the most part, you lose weight and gain durability (there’s an unusual trade off!) when you move up in either the Shimano or Campy line.
For the most part, you lose weight and gain durability (there’s an unusual trade off!) when you move up in either the Shimano or Campy line.
I would tend to disagree. For example on both Shimano and Campy Cassettes, you lose weight and durability when you move from the 2nd tier to top tier (Chorus-> Record, for example). Record uses Ti for some or all of the cogs in the cassette which wear faster but are lighter (~60 g) than the full steel cogs in the Chorus.
for the typical tri-bike with bar-end shifters, there is no compelling reason to get anything higher end than 105, other than aesthetics and bling factor. For a road bike, DuraAce shifters are worth the upgrade (at least they were when 9 speed was king, I haven’t “upgraded” to 10 speed yet)
That being said, was I the ONLY cheap bastard running exclusively 105 (sans bar end shifters) at IMC last year?
You’re right about the cassettes. I forgot about them since I use a Veloce cassette on even my Record bike. I still think it’s correct with the other parts. Record and Chorus shifters with the ball bearings stay crisp a little longer than Centaur and Veloce, although neither matters on a tri bike since there’s only one set of shifters.