Just got one for my an S1 build. Noticed that instead of the screw at the end that holds the two sides together (like the DA version) there is a rivet. On the DA I could undo the screw and slip the chain into the derailleur. No screw so I guess this means that I have to unlink the chain to install the derailleur. I hate pulling the chain apart cos its usually difficult to get the link rivet back in so the links move freely. Am I missing something here? why would they do that?
to punish you for not buying dura ace?
Cost savings.
to punish you for not buying dura ace?
consider me punished. I shall not downgrade ever again.
Actually I think it’s t punish you for not buying a chain with a quick link.
So I had put a temporary FD on for a few weeks, taken off my ancient bike. It was a Shimano 105 that had the screw instead of the rivet. So I guess at some point they took it out. You don’t often see them downgrade a spec. I bet some bright new mechanical engineer saved 6 months of his own salary with that revision. I’ve got a better suggestion as to how we could save the other half of his salary.
Actually I think it’s t punish you for not buying a chain with a quick link.
you mean this one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwn3QwH3mkc&feature=player_embedded
.
I have a circa 2009 105 FD on my Allez and it has a screw. It didn’t go away that long ago.
Actually I think it’s t punish you for not buying a chain with a quick link.
you mean this one
http://www.youtube.com/...ture=player_embedded]
Yet another reason not to buy shimano chains. KMC and SRAM chains work great and both come with removable links.
Yet another reason not to buy shimano chains. KMC and SRAM chains work great and both come with removable links.
Not so sure that that’s true. For many years, even fully sram-sponsored pro teams would use dura ace chains on their sram drivetrains. And they did it for a reason.
Regardless of the issue with the FD, then you do know not to re-use the pin, but to use a new one. Attempting to re-use will end in pain.
To rejoin a shimano chain then you need to insert the new pin, aand using the chain tool it will get very hard to screw, then ‘pop’ into place and you need to make sure you don’t carry on tightening after that ‘easing’. Check the link moves freely before snapping off the insertion guide. Never back off a pin. If you’ve overinserted it then use a new one. They are cheap as chips.
I can’t get to grips with the quicklinks at all, just never had the ‘knack’. You need to carry a chain tool for emergencies anyway, and know how to insert a pin.
Quicklinks are easy, you just have to douse the things in WD40 before unpopping them. And I speak as the world´s worst wrench - yesterday I installed a fork in upside down. Not kidding.
Quicklinks are easy, you just have to douse the things in WD40 before unpopping them. And I speak as the world´s worst wrench - yesterday I installed a fork in upside down. Not kidding.
Nah, people have been telling me this for 12 years+ now and I have never got the hang of them. May be that I’ve big fingers, never played the piano, or any other random reason, but I end up swearing, resorting to needle pliers, swearing more and then pinching fingers in the pliers. I accept that to most people the quick links work easiest but to me then the pins are a total doddle. Takes all sorts, but in relation to the post above, the OP doesn’t have a quick link chain, and I just wanted to correct the ambiguity in the post related to reusing the pin.
Quicklinks are easy, you just have to douse the things in WD40 before unpopping them. And I speak as the world´s worst wrench - yesterday I installed a fork in upside down. Not kidding.
NOOOO! Do NOT use WD40 on a chain!
Not to lubricate - just on the Quicklink to help it pop off easily. My lubrication routine for chains is a bit OCD, I won´t go into it here, but it doesn´t involve WD40 for anything else.
WD40 is just hexane spray with some oil. Nothing wrong with it, the problems would arise if you didn´t relubricate after, say, cleaning off gunk with it.
Weirdly enough the 9-speed QLs come off easy, the 8-speed ones are much harder.
I thought that SRAM 10 speed quick links were no supposed to be removed, but 9 and 8 were okay? Per SRAM’s 10 spd chain instructions:
Power Lock is for one-time use only! Always use a new Power Lock when fitting a new chain. Failure to shorten
the chain properly or to lock it exactly into place may cause damage to the chain and eventually total chain failure, material damage or the rider to fall off his bicycle resulting in injury. Worn sprockets should also be replaced
when a new chain is fitted.
Use only Power Lock to close 10 speed chains (no Pin)!
Dunno, 10-speed stuff hasn´t made it into my world yet - people keep selling me their lightly-used 9- and 8-speed components too cheaply for me to want to ´upgrade´
My TT bike is 9 speed, my nice road bike 9 speed, my classic Olmo is 8-speed Campagnolo and the daily commuter 8 speed.
At the end of the day they´re just gears and if the 10-speed QL isn´t reusable, well, that´s just another tiny reason to stick with what I have.
Regardless of the issue with the FD, then you do know not to re-use the pin, but to use a new one. Attempting to re-use will end in pain.
To rejoin a shimano chain then you need to insert the new pin, aand using the chain tool it will get very hard to screw, then ‘pop’ into place and you need to make sure you don’t carry on tightening after that ‘easing’. Check the link moves freely before snapping off the insertion guide. Never back off a pin. If you’ve overinserted it then use a new one. They are cheap as chips.
I can’t get to grips with the quicklinks at all, just never had the ‘knack’. You need to carry a chain tool for emergencies anyway, and know how to insert a pin.
Yep, I know not to reuse…but I still do it. Be interested to know where you pay $2 for a chip 
KMC makes a reusable 10 speed quick link. Might be a good option. Apparently they are easy to deal with.
I have a circa 2009 105 FD on my Allez and it has a screw. It didn’t go away that long ago.
Thanks, just looked around online and it went out when they went from the 5600 to the 5700. Mine’s going back to the shop and I’ll get them to order a 5600.