I’m currently riding a cheap aluminum road bike with box section wheels, clip on aero bars, and a jammed forward seat. I’m doing pretty well on this set up (held 23.2 and 22.5 in my last sprint and international and won my AG in the sprint) but honestly I really like having shiny new gear, and I have no idea about any of it. I’ve been reading up and it looks like I’ve got the basics covered with an aero helmet and aero bars, so the next logical step would be a tri frame or race wheels. I can’t really figure out where my money is best spent though. Any opinions on these three upgrades I’ve looked at, or ideas where my money could be better spent? I’ve got a good training plan and am taking swim lessons, so this money is purely for bike goodies.
Planet-X Stealth frame + tt shifters and brakes is my first choice, all the measurements I’ve had taken show that I should be able to get a much better position on this bike than my current one, and if I switch most of the parts over from my road bike should be under 1k.
Sram S60 front and disc cover back, this looks good with the toroidal shape and depth, plus it’s a clincher tire, and I know clinchers.
Planet-X 82/101 wheelset + good tubulars. This set is much deeper than the S60, but is the different shape and tubular tires going to make that much difference?
Or should I ignore the aero stuffs for now and get a powertap laced up to my rear wheel and swap my Edge 305 for a 500?
I think you have your priorities right and for the right reasons. A good frame that will get you into a better aero position will help the most. (I’m not sure the Planet X is that frame, but that’s between you and your fitter.) A disc cover is also a great aero option, though you might as well just put it on your box rim wheel and save the money you would put down on a rear S60.
If I went with the Sram wheel I would just get the front, like you said, no reason to get a deep back and a disc cover when I could just get the cover.
As for the frame, I talked to the guy who fit me on my road bike and asked him for some frame recommendations and that was one he mentioned, it just happens to be the cheapest one he mentioned, which is good for my wallet.
powertap and disc cover are the next best step. you can pick up a deep front wheel or trispoke off ebay or craigslist or a local shope for < $200 once in a while.
Sounds like you have a pretty good idea of it to me.
Since it is yourself and not the bike that generates the majority of drag a good fitting Tri frame should drop your drag the most significantly. Plus it should have the benifit of saving your legs for the run.
I’ve heard good stuff about the PX frame, and from an aero standpoint I’m certain there are better options, but ‘better’ is a pretty relative term assuming the fit is spot on.
I’m good with aluminum, I didn’t realize the PX was that unaero, all I knew was my fitter thought it had geometry that would work for me. I’ll send him an e-mail and see what he thinks about the geometry on the Cervelos.
I would start with a reputable triathlon specialty shop that can measure and fit you properly. Get measured and then see what frames work for you, not the other way around… Putting yourself in a powerful aero position will not only make you faster on the bike, but on the run as well.
Decide which bike you really want. With all the new sweet aero bikes coming out this year and next year, a lot of people will be upgrading. The used bike market gets flooded in the off season with people upgrading and making changes. Once you know what bike you want, keep your eyes wide open and with a little luck the right deal will present itself.
I think if you pull the trigger too quick, you’ll just want an upgrade again. Its better to be satisfied with your rig. Race wheels are nice, but they don’t make as big of a difference as a lot of people think they do.
the PX is what I would call semi aero. It does have narrow aero looking tubes, and as such they WILL be more aero than most round tube bikes.
But it doesn’t have real airfoil shapes, the seat stays don’t attach low out of the high pressure zone, the head tube isn’t carefully scultped, the cable routing is external, and so on.
people win races on planet x bikes, they are good bikes, and great value for money, good looking etc
but a used TTX, transition, used cervelo, or new aluminum cervelo would add less drag to the equation
I’m good with aluminum, I didn’t realize the PX was that unaero, all I knew was my fitter thought it had geometry that would work for me. I’ll send him an e-mail and see what he thinks about the geometry on the Cervelos.
I would listen to jack, he has a fast inexpensive ride. Here is mine, cheap, fast, and aero. I pass plenty of flashy carbon bikes on the race coarse. Id say if you look for used then you could go for under a grand. If you want a new bike then under 2 grand. Besides my powertap(which I had) every thing was under 2 grand because I shopped smart. Here is the link to my bike. http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2762522;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=50; A powermeter is great but not necessary to go faster. It taught me to push harder on the bike. Go to ebay for a cheap front aero wheel and buy a wheel cover, youll be all set. You dont need a carbon bike to go fast. My alum bike gets plenty of looks, you have to ride it right though.
I’ll just mention the PX wheels. I ride the PX 101/82 in traininig and use the 82 front in racing. I’ve ridden alot of wheels and the PX are a great wheel for the money ($650 for the set). Nope, no dimples, no torodial shape, just a deep well made wheel. For most people the wheel will be 98% or more as fast as a wheeset that costs 2-3 times more. I’ve ridden lots of wheels and I like the PX alot (HED Jet 90, Zipp 440 , Zipp 404, HED Stinger 50, Zipp 330 and a few I forget about : )
I’ve recently sold the 82 and have ordered the 101 front to go with the 101 rear. This way I have a deeper front to go with my disc in races.
