So I have a 2005 Specialized S-Works frame, it is silver anodized ( I know, not the cool red one). The paint is rubbing off the anodized finish but the anodization is holding up well.
HAs anybody had success removing paint (As in the specialized logo) fron an anodized frame? I am thinking of building this back up into a sweet race rig so I can keep my soloist as a TT bike. It is this frame here:
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?arc=2005&spid=21480
Thanks.
OK - not on a bike frame, but on auto parts. Much will depend on the quality of anodizing. Since the material is applied using differences in electrical charges, you should be able to get away with a standard paint solvent. Obviously test in a small unseen area (bottom bracket perhaps).
If they used a cheaper process however, you could always mask out the areas you want removed, and have it blasted (baking soda only should keep the finish from being damaged).
Are you planning to paint over the anodizing at a later date? That is some tricky prep work if you don’t want the paint to peel.
No, I wasn’t planning on re-painting it, just taking of some of the logos that are starting to rub off to make it look a bit better. I figured the anodizing seems pretty good so I may as well leave it. I know anodized frames don’t have all the bling of a new paint job but I like anodized. Plus this is really nice frame, I jsut want to build it up, don’t really care about bling, just want it to look a bit nicer.
Acetone on a rag. It shouldn’t hurt the anodize, but try it on a small spot under the BB first just to make sure, and wash it off with soap and water when your are done. You will have to put a little elbow grease into it as well.
-wreck-
Thanks, I will try that.
Depends on the paint, but any solvent based paint remover should work (look at the label and avoid anything that says caustic or hydroxide) MEK may work better than acetone.
Styrrell
No experience with this method but I have read some recommending locating an transmission repair shop that uses bead blasting to clean transmissions. Apparently the fine media beads (something like small teflon balls) are exceptionally good at removing grit, grime, decals, and paint while not effecting the surface of the material being cleaned.
If you are going the solvent route, please make sure you are working in a well ventilated area with no source of spark. I would strongly recommend getting a mask that you can screw in a NIOSH cartridge rated for volatile organic solvents. This will take time and you do not want to be inhaling those fumes for that long - I have seen people pass out from overexposure to acetone and toluene.
If I go the solvent route, it will be outdoors.
Any luck?