Wheels are the older Reynolds Stratus DV46 carbon clinchers, which I believe are 21mm. I will be using them mainly for road TT’s, possibly a couple duathlons this summer.
I will most likely be using butyl tubes, but may give latex a try.
Looking for best aero/crr combo with an older rim that I can get.
John
Wheels are the older Reynolds Stratus DV46 carbon clinchers, which I believe are 21mm. I will be using them mainly for road TT’s, possibly a couple duathlons this summer.
I will most likely be using butyl tubes, but may give latex a try.
Looking for best aero/crr combo with an older rim that I can get.
John
20MM CONTI Supersonic.
the supersonics are good. using veloflex corsa or vittoria open corsa are the closest to a tubular that you’re gonna get using a clincher
Wheels are the older Reynolds Stratus DV46 carbon clinchers, which I believe are 21mm. I will be using them mainly for road TT’s, possibly a couple duathlons this summer.
I will most likely be using butyl tubes, but may give latex a try.
Looking for best aero/crr combo with an older rim that I can get.
John
20MM CONTI Supersonic.
Agree - 20MM CONTI Supersonic.
or supersonic 20mm front, conti force rear
or conti attack front, conti force rear
depending on yaw angles and flat resistance needs and stuff =)
.
Thomas,
What is your take on the S-works turbo cotton? I don’t know if you or anyone else has much experience with it as it may not be available to the public yet. I have seen Tom A.'s data on it but I didn’t see any reason to pick that over a supersonic.
Thomas,
What is your take on the S-works turbo cotton? I don’t know if you or anyone else has much experience with it as it may not be available to the public yet. I have seen Tom A.'s data on it but I didn’t see any reason to pick that over a supersonic.
I know nothing about it but in general I don’t like cotton lined tires and especially so with Latex tubes and carbon clinchers. I find they blow off rims much easier than blown-rubber. I also find that cotton IMO tends to be much less puncture resistance than Conti’s casing.
Wheels are the older Reynolds Stratus DV46 carbon clinchers, which I believe are 21mm. I will be using them mainly for road TT’s, possibly a couple duathlons this summer.
I will most likely be using butyl tubes, but may give latex a try.
Looking for best aero/crr combo with an older rim that I can get.
JohnWhy waste wattage, the best aero/Crr combo means the use of latex. I’ve been riding nothing but latex for the past 3 years without issue.
The specialized tires are all fairly wide at 24mm. So not ideal for your wheel if you care about aerodynamics. They should have low rolling resistance as they use a cotton casing.
Your best bet is still a 20mm supersonic on the front, and then maybe a slightly more durable tire on the rear (say Conti Attack). And be sure and use latex. Just learn how to install the tubes correctly and they will be problem free.
The specialized tires are all fairly wide at 24mm. So not ideal for your wheel if you care about aerodynamics. They should have low rolling resistance as they use a cotton casing.
Your best bet is still a 20mm supersonic on the front, and then maybe a slightly more durable tire on the rear (say Conti Attack). And be sure and use latex. Just learn how to install the tubes correctly and they will be problem free.
Yeah, I’ve been reading some older threads on the use of baby powder, etc. One guy mentioned that it takes him an hour to change a pair of tubes. Not sure I have the patience for that. 
I will give it a try in the off season, and see if I can’t get it down.
I’m thinking of running the supersonic on the front and then the GP4000s or the Attack on the rear.
What’s the take on the race light butyl tubes with the sealant? (Saw this article: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Things_that_Roll/Tires/Continental_Attack_Force_3229.html)
Mostly I’m hesitant because a lot of the TT’s here in Az are on rougher, less than ideal back roads.
John
I have installed 10ish latex tubes and blown one of them. User error because I wasn’t being careful.
The only extra step I take is to inflate them to ~30psi and squeeze the tire while I rotate the wheel to make sure the tube isn’t peaking out. Takes the time to change a tube from 4 minutes to 5 minutes.
Installing 2 tires only takes 1/2 a beer vs the 6-pack it takes to glue up a set of tubulars.
The specialized tires are all fairly wide at 24mm. So not ideal for your wheel if you care about aerodynamics. They should have low rolling resistance as they use a cotton casing.
Your best bet is still a 20mm supersonic on the front, and then maybe a slightly more durable tire on the rear (say Conti Attack). And be sure and use latex. Just learn how to install the tubes correctly and they will be problem free.
Yeah, I’ve been reading some older threads on the use of baby powder, etc. One guy mentioned that it takes him an hour to change a pair of tubes. Not sure I have the patience for that. I will give it a try in the off season, and see if I can’t get it down.
I’m thinking of running the supersonic on the front and then the GP4000s or the Attack on the rear.
What’s the take on the race light butyl tubes with the sealant? (Saw this article: http://www.slowtwitch.com/...tack_Force_3229.html)
Mostly I’m hesitant because a lot of the TT’s here in Az are on rougher, less than ideal back roads.
John
An hour? HAHAHAHAHAHA…
The specialized tires are all fairly wide at 24mm. So not ideal for your wheel if you care about aerodynamics. They should have low rolling resistance as they use a cotton casing.
Your best bet is still a 20mm supersonic on the front, and then maybe a slightly more durable tire on the rear (say Conti Attack). And be sure and use latex. Just learn how to install the tubes correctly and they will be problem free.
Yeah, I’ve been reading some older threads on the use of baby powder, etc. One guy mentioned that it takes him an hour to change a pair of tubes. Not sure I have the patience for that. I will give it a try in the off season, and see if I can’t get it down.
I’m thinking of running the supersonic on the front and then the GP4000s or the Attack on the rear.
What’s the take on the race light butyl tubes with the sealant? (Saw this article: http://www.slowtwitch.com/...tack_Force_3229.html)
Mostly I’m hesitant because a lot of the TT’s here in Az are on rougher, less than ideal back roads.
John
An hour? HAHAHAHAHAHA…
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=5243279;search_string=recommended%20tire;#5243279
MMMV.
John
or supersonic 20mm front, conti force rear
or conti attack front, conti force rear
depending on yaw angles and flat resistance needs and stuff =)
or a 4000S 20mm if you want narrow with some more flat resistance than the supersonic.
At least that is what I just ordered for my new H3. I considered the supersonic as well but the risk of flatting in a HIM to save maybe 3 watts (8 watts difference in crr for the pair at 40 kph due to Tom’s chart but the 4000s might be a bit more aero) wasn’t worth it in my eyes. for something like a TT series where a flat might not be too much of a consequence (as in there is an other one the next week 
) I probably would go 20mm SS in the front and 23 mm SS in the back.
or supersonic 20mm front, conti force rear
or conti attack front, conti force rear
depending on yaw angles and flat resistance needs and stuff =)
or a 4000S 20mm if you want narrow with some more flat resistance than the supersonic.
At least that is what I just ordered for my new H3. I considered the supersonic as well but the risk of flatting in a HIM to save maybe 3 watts (8 watts difference in crr for the pair at 40 kph due to Tom’s chart but the 4000s might be a bit more aero) wasn’t worth it in my eyes. for something like a TT series where a flat might not be too much of a consequence (as in there is an other one the next week ) I probably would go 20mm SS in the front and 23 mm SS in the back.
Is a thinner wheel/tire in the front desirable? I may look at picking up a deeper front wheel for races early next year. The Reynolds will be doing double duty on both the tri and the road bike. I’ll get a wheelbuilder cover for the rear, but not sure which way to go for the front.
The ride is a 2009 Felt B2R, so the early bayonet forks, if that makes any difference.
John
or supersonic 20mm front, conti force rear
or conti attack front, conti force rear
depending on yaw angles and flat resistance needs and stuff =)
or a 4000S 20mm if you want narrow with some more flat resistance than the supersonic.
At least that is what I just ordered for my new H3. I considered the supersonic as well but the risk of flatting in a HIM to save maybe 3 watts (8 watts difference in crr for the pair at 40 kph due to Tom’s chart but the 4000s might be a bit more aero) wasn’t worth it in my eyes. for something like a TT series where a flat might not be too much of a consequence (as in there is an other one the next week ) I probably would go 20mm SS in the front and 23 mm SS in the back.
I rode another 70 miles on 23mm Supersonic today on battered AZ roads. I have been riding this exact same front tire since the beginning of the year and still not a single flat, and what is more astonishing to me is that the tire still has useful life left. 3 watts if you think of it in the context of 200 watts average is 1.5%. How hard is it to improve 1.5% thru fitness. As for aero, I have had conversations with various people in the know that have all gone something like this:
Me: have you tested the 20mm Supersonic in the tunnel yet.
Them: no, but we tested 20mm Conti GP4000
Me: was it faster than the 23mm
Them: yes, but not enough to matter once factoring in RR
Me: Go back and test the 20mm Supersonic would you please
Them: silence
So what if the 20mm Supersonic was also more aero than the Conti GP4000. The 23mm Supersonic is quite a bit more narrow than the 23mm GP4000s. I don’t have a 20mm GP4000s so I can’t compare but what if it was also 2 aero watts faster? Would 5 watts make a difference to you? As I mentioned in the previous thread on here recently, TJ (according to his crew - I will verify with him at some point), went to 20mm SS front and rear at Kona from 23mm GP4000s at IMMT. I am sure he didn’t do that because of the increased durability that Supersonic’s provide
You can also consider the Bontrager R4 Aero, which rolls well and has an aero shape as well as its ‘wings’.
I’ve tried conti supersonic, veloflex record, conto gp tt, conti gp4000s, michelin pro4 comp limited, and others. But I’ve gone back to the R4 aero, which I find best on my front Hed H3 and Pro disc rear.
Installing 2 tires only takes 1/2 a beer vs the 6-pack it takes to glue up a set of tubulars.
And that’s exactly why I LOVE gluing tubulars!!
Yeah, I’ve been reading some older threads on the use of baby powder, etc. One guy mentioned that it takes him an hour to change a pair of tubes. Not sure I have the patience for that. I will give it a try in the off season, and see if I can’t get it down.
Only time I ever had problems with latex was when my missus caught me wearing it.
But seriously, it takes me almost the same time to fit a latex tube as it does a butyl. Maybe a couple minutes worth of extra care. Putting a small amount of air in the tube helps a lot in preventing the latex getting pinched as you mount your tyre. You would want to take some extra care over mounting your rim tape, but you should be doing that anyway. I put two turns of Stans on the front but don’t need any at the back (Renn disc). And, point is, once it’s done it’s done and I’ll carry butyl spares for if the worst happens in a race. Only time I’ve had to fit a latex tube in the last 2 years is when I replaced my race wheels and when I replaced my tyres on my race wheels.
You can also consider the Bontrager R4 Aero, which rolls well and has an aero shape as well as its ‘wings’.
I’ve tried conti supersonic, veloflex record, conto gp tt, conti gp4000s, michelin pro4 comp limited, and others. But I’ve gone back to the R4 aero, which I find best on my front Hed H3 and Pro disc rear.
if they would make the R4 aero in 19 mm that would be a strong candidate indeed but I think it has been shown multiple times that a 22 mm tire on the 19 mm H3 is not very good.