RD marked up Flo disc

I just put a borrowed Flo disc onto my Specialized Transition. I never thought to check the RD. On a short test ride, the RD made contact with the disc when I shifted into the largest cog. I think I may have just bought a disc.

Is this normal?

Has anyone else had this happen?

I can’t believe everyone using a disc has their RD adjusted not to be able to engage the largest cog.

that is was the limit screws are for, as der’ should not have to go over so far as to touch spokes/material of any wheel while engaging largest cog.

The Shimano Pro disc has this issue. Just check out any pro cyclist or triathlete with that disc and you’ll see a circle mark from the rear derailluer.
That is the only disc I have seen with this problem. All others seem to be non-issue with a properly set limit screw.

Upon further inspection, it is not possible for me to engage the largest cog with out the RD making contact with the carbon cover. I am strongly considering purchasing a disc for next year and I am wondering if the “structural” discs have this type of situation. I can see wear marks on the disc cover from his chain, but I didn’t see a ring on it from his RD cage.

It depends on the shape of the disc (more common on toroidal than flat) and your RD setup. The D2Z disc actually warns you that there can be contact with 11 speed setups. FWIW I’ve never had an issue with flat discs like the Reynolds Element or Lightweight Autobahn.

Upon further inspection, it is not possible for me to engage the largest cog with out the RD making contact with the carbon cover. I am strongly considering purchasing a disc for next year and I am wondering if the “structural” discs have this type of situation. I can see wear marks on the disc cover from his chain, but I didn’t see a ring on it from his RD cage.

Mates with Zipp Super-9 CCs have circles on them. My disc cover and my mum’s antique structural disc got them, until I managed to tweak the derailleur properly. The B-screw helped, but I don’t recall which adjustment exactly.

Suggest you have the rear derailleur hanger alignment checked, then set the upper and lower limits and set index then check again…

iF your hanger is out of alignment it’s possible it needs to be farther over than standard to achieve the largest sprocket… This could of course lead to the issue you have.

Best of luck.

Are you an an 11-speed setup? I ride a Transition with a Flo-Disc on a SRAM 10-speed drivetrain without contact (but it is indeed close).

Maybe your derailleur is bent a little…

I have the HED Stinger disc in a speed concept 9, never had any contact, and I’ve used the easiest gear plenty (Tremblant)!

I just put a borrowed Flo disc onto my Specialized Transition. I never thought to check the RD. On a short test ride, the RD made contact with the disc when I shifted into the largest cog. I think I may have just bought a disc.

Is this normal?

Has anyone else had this happen?

I can’t believe everyone using a disc has their RD adjusted not to be able to engage the largest cog.

With a properly set up bike there shouldn’t be any contact. By the sounds of it, your friend isn’t getting the same problem? Is that correct? If so it could be your bike.

Can I ask what group set you are running, what speed that groupset is, and when the FLO DISC was purchased?

Thanks,

I wonder how many people clicked this link expecting to read about a Race Director sharpy’ing someone’s disc?

This may’ve already been posted, but double check the wheel is snugged up in the dropouts. Mine used to do this on the horizontal dropouts of the QR occasionally. Otherwise, limit screw or bent cage I all that’s left.

Clean it up well, explain the situation, and make the loaner happy. That’s about all you can do and still sleep well.

I wonder how many people clicked this link expecting to read about a Race Director sharpy’ing someone’s disc?

I did. Ha.

The cassette is a Ultegra 10sp 11-25. The RD is Ultegra. As the disc is not mine, I do not know when it was purchased.

What I have noticed from pictures on the web of other brand disc, is there seems to be less space between the largest cog and the cf skin on this Flo than on other discs.

The contact point was the cage next to the upper idler pulley.

I feel like an idiot asking this: Not how does a RD get bent, but bent how? Twisted? If the chain smoothly engages all cogs of the cassette through adjustment made, can the RD still be bent?

As this is a borrowed unit, could it be an 11sp capable free hub without the proper spacer for the 10sp cassette? If so, could this have worked correctly on his bike?

As this is a borrowed unit, could it be an 11sp capable free hub without the proper spacer for the 10sp cassette? If so, could this have worked correctly on his bike?

Could be. If it is a disc with an 11-speed hub but has a 10-speed cassette* properly installed* with the correct no. of behind-cassette spacers (2 different ones for a 10-speed cassette), then the clearance between the biggest cog and the disc should be kinda enormous, almost no chance of rubbing.

I wonder how many people clicked this link expecting to read about a Race Director sharpy’ing someone’s disc?

I did. Ha.

Me too.

I am going to throw something out there that might just confuse the issue. I bought a FLO disc a couple years back (first order) and the disc touched the chain stay on my specialized transition. It was so tight it was not ride-able. That was with all possibly tweaks to the drop out position. The RD might have hit the disc too but I never looked at that. The chainstay rub was an obvious “no-go”.

My speculation at the time was that the FLO disc cover was not very close to the underlying spokes - close to a 6-7 mm of gap. This made the disc “wide”. If the cover was sitting closer to the spokes by even 2-3 mm, problem would have been solved. I was at a race and a guy had the same bike as mine with a FLO disc. No clearance issues. I asked if I could look at his disc and when I pressed on the cover, it was a lot closer to the spokes than mine was in the location of the chainstay. I have a HED disc now and plenty of clearance. I have FLO 60 and a 90 and like their product. The disc didn’t work for my bike.

I don’t think your reply confused anything.

This is really the first time I have examined a disc of any type up close. I ride HED Jet 6’s now so I am familiar with the carbon fairing over spokes. I will say that I was surprised at how much give there was in the drive side skin on this disc. It wasn’t floppy, but it certainly wasn’t “structural”. Maybe this one is just a little on the wide side. Does the HED skin flex when you touch it?

This is all good info for me to be learning about as I will be riding a disc next year. I certainly don’t want to buy more than 1.

I wonder how many people clicked this link expecting to read about a Race Director sharpy’ing someone’s disc?

I did. Ha.

+1

I don’t think your reply confused anything.

This is really the first time I have examined a disc of any type up close. I ride HED Jet 6’s now so I am familiar with the carbon fairing over spokes. I will say that I was surprised at how much give there was in the drive side skin on this disc. It wasn’t floppy, but it certainly wasn’t “structural”. Maybe this one is just a little on the wide side. Does the HED skin flex when you touch it?

This is all good info for me to be learning about as I will be riding a disc next year. I certainly don’t want to buy more than 1.

Both disc covers flex, in fact the FLO seems more solid than the HED. The issue is how close the disc cover is to the spokes. The first generation FLO that I bought had (IMHO) unnecessary clearance between spokes and cover. This was prior to them putting foam between spokes and cover to cut down noise. Now that they have changed their process to include a foam insulation, they might have the cover closer to the spokes and the problem might be solved.

As this is a borrowed unit, could it be an 11sp capable free hub without the proper spacer for the 10sp cassette? If so, could this have worked correctly on his bike?

Could be. If it is a disc with an 11-speed hub but has a 10-speed cassette* properly installed* with the correct no. of behind-cassette spacers (2 different ones for a 10-speed cassette), then the clearance between the biggest cog and the disc should be kinda enormous, almost no chance of rubbing.

This. Wonder if you have a spacer installed?