I’m looking to replace my 700x23C Continental Sport 1000 not due to wear but the stiffness of the sidewalls which make changing tires extremely difficult. I’m looking for a set of new tires which are easy to remove, puncture resistance and can take the abuse of training and racing rides. Thanks.
If I have to pick a single tire for both training and racing, I would pick the Continental GP 4000 (which I have used and will use again next).
Fred.
I think ease of removal is often due to the rim, but Michelin Pro2 race are very soft and reasonably puncture resistant.
I have some Krylions on my training wheels and find them an acceptable compromise and very puncture resistant, but not as comfy as the Pro 2.
I think ease of removal is often due to the rim, but Michelin Pro2 race are very soft and reasonably puncture resistant.
I have some Krylions on my training wheels and find them an acceptable compromise and very puncture resistant, but not as comfy as the Pro 2.
That’s true. I have Spinergy Rev-X wheels currently and from what I’ve been told they make tire removal difficult. Also, I’ve heard that kevlar lined wheels are easier to remove than wire bead tires.
Michelin Pro3’s…End of discussion.
I have had good luck with Michelin Pro2 and 3’s for training
.
If I have to pick a single tire for both training and racing, I would pick the Continental GP 4000 (which I have used and will use again next).
Fred.
Make that a 4000S, and I’d agree with you that it would be on my short list of “do - all” tires…actually, since IME the front tire doesn’t need to be as robust as a rear, I’d probably run a Bontrager RXLPro23 on the front paired with the 4000S in the back. In fact, that’s exactly what’s on my road bike right now 
Latex tubes all around, of course 
If I have to pick a single tire for both training and racing, I would pick the Continental GP 4000 (which I have used and will use again next).
Fred.
This is why you are slow on the bike, Freddo. OK, that and the 15-20 lbs of retained French food and wine.
You need to be running Pro3’s in training, and RXL Pro’s on raceday.
I’m thinking of some spin skins (or similar) kevlar strips inside the PR3’s for the wintertime. And thicker tubes, but otherwise, that’s it.
The RXL Pro’s are spendy ($60 each, and I haven’t found anyplace other than Trek to order them from), so for the budget-minded, PR3’s ordered from Probikekit.com are the best all-around training and racing setup.
YMMV.
I actually ride with Vittoria Open Corsa EVO CX clincher tires and latex tubes.
The Conti GP4000 will be on my road bike (next year) and the GP4000S will be my training tires next year on the Lucero.
Vittoria/Michelin latex tube combo is pretty inexpensive from Probikekit.com
Fred.
I actually ride with Vittoria Open Corsa EVO CX clincher tires and latex tubes.
The Conti GP4000 will be on my road bike (next year) and the GP4000S will be my training tires next year on the Lucero.
Vittoria/Michelin latex tube combo is pretty inexpensive from Probikekit.com
Fred.
How well do latex tubes hold up to punctures?
I honestly do not know.
However, and the same would apply to Buttyl tubes, you want to make tubes are correctly put inside the tire to avoid pinch flat and also you want to ride @ the correct pressure.
Fred.
Its harder to get the latex tubes installed correclty such that you don’t pinch flat.
I would not bring latex tubes with me as spare tubes, as it would be risky to change them quickly.
I actually ride with Vittoria Open Corsa EVO CX clincher tires and latex tubes.
The Conti GP4000 will be on my road bike (next year) and the GP4000S will be my training tires next year on the Lucero.
Vittoria/Michelin latex tube combo is pretty inexpensive from Probikekit.com
Fred.
How well do latex tubes hold up to punctures?
I don’t think I’ve ever had a tire that was easy to mount on 700’s. My 650’s on the other hand are a whole lot easier…
Have you asked your shop to show you various ways to mount the tire? After a few practices it should be quite easy. A GOOD pair of tire levers help too. The Park ones suck imho, and you do need to replace them once in a while as they get worn out. (They need to be stiff.) There are some cheap ones my shop uses (don’t remember the brand) but I also like my Michelin levers.
Sport1000’s are quite hard and tough. They’re also wire bead (right?) so not as flexible either. Any kevlar bead should be a bit more flexy, but not necessarily easy to install.
My experience with clinchers:
Vittoria Rubino, Rubino Pros. I had a lot of bad luck with flats so I haven’t gone back, otherwise ok ride.
Conti Sport 1000/2000/3000, good for the trainer. But a harsh ride.
Conti GP3000, uggh. squares off prematurely. Ride is mediocre.
Conti GP4000 (non S) MUCH better than the 3000, but still squares off (I only ride 100-110psi) rather quickly. Good puncture resistance.
Michelin Pro2, my fave, great ride and grip, but very prone to cuts/nicks.
Going to try a set of Vittoria Open Corsa CX next since they revamped the model for 2009, you should be able to get the '08s for a nice price.
blah blah
I think I’ll give the Continental 4000S tires a try, which should be a noticeable improvement from the 1000 Sport tires. Where is a good place to buy the tires though? Probikekit doesn’t have any in stock, and all the LBS charge MSRP? Franky, these online sales and discounts make it very difficult to justify buying anything from LBS anymore.
I really appreciate all the advice though. I’ll post something after I get my hands on the 4000S tires and have put some miles on them.
pick the tire you like on probike, and sign up for the notification once they have stock. Shipping is free so whenever they’re available, I just order whatever I need and that’s it Patience goes a long way.
The main reason I tried so many contis was because our team had a deal with the local distributor. Other than that yeah, tires are a real rip off. I bet the winter tires for the car will be cheaper than four bike tires at retail…
I’d recommend NOT training with latex tubes. There is no point. They are expensive if you do get a puncture, they have to be pumped up every single day because they’ll lose 20psi overnight, the gains in rolling resistance aren’t relevant when you are training. I would recommend getting a set of the Michelin Krylion Carbons or the 4000S and ride with butyl tubes for training. I’ve had great luck with the older Carbons and new ones, they usually still look almost new when the tread is nearly worn through. 2 weeks before an A race swap the tubes out for latex to gain that extra 0.5mph. Or just train on any plain old durable POS cheap tire and save the race tires for putting on the bike ~2 weeks before your race. Don’t even THINK about changing tires the night before your race…I’ve seen way too many people do this and blow a tire 50yds from T1…
I’d recommend NOT training with latex tubes. There is no point. They are expensive if you do get a puncture, they have to be pumped up every single day because they’ll lose 20psi overnight, the gains in rolling resistance aren’t relevant when you are training. I would recommend getting a set of the Michelin Krylion Carbons or the 4000S and ride with butyl tubes for training. I’ve had great luck with the older Carbons and new ones, they usually still look almost new when the tread is nearly worn through. 2 weeks before an A race swap the tubes out for latex to gain that extra 0.5mph. Or just train on any plain old durable POS cheap tire and save the race tires for putting on the bike ~2 weeks before your race. Don’t even THINK about changing tires the night before your race…I’ve seen way too many people do this and blow a tire 50yds from T1…
I’ll probably stick to my semi-cheap rubber tubes then. I’ve only put about 400 miles on the Zipp so far, and I’ve had a flat tire in the front (during the last 3 miles of a time trail) and rear (~10 miles into a weekend ride) which I think can be associated with the older tubes. Hopefully with the new tubes I’m running now and a set of new tires I can avoid flats for awhile.
Also I did sign up for the notification on probikekit so once they have the 4000S in stock I’ll snag them. The LBS wants $56 for the tires, while online vendors offer them for $40. Hopefully my patience doesn’t run out, it’s far too fun buying new parts for this bike.