I am entered in the 1/2 Ironman in Kona next may, and my question is on race wheels and if they will provise me with a difference. I ride a Cervelo P2K with Ritchey Aero DS wheels, and I don’t mind spending the cash to upgrade my wheels to race on, are the wheels that I train on the Ritchey’s good or should I go with a different wheel? The size of my wheels are 700’s and my bike is a 55, my weight is around 180 pounds. Any comments would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Werner…
Everyone can benefit from race wheels, how much depends on how fast you ride. Most ‘aero’ wheels/rims that come on so many bikes today aren’t really that aero. Rim depth really needs to be at least 40mm to make a difference. You are relatively big, so ultra light weight and crosswinds aren’t as much an issue for you. If you are reasonably strong on the bike, I would recommend a HED3 or ZIPP 404 front and Disc rear, depending on how much you want to spend.
I have raced Ironman Canada and many 1/2’s and I made the decision to buy zipp 303 race wheels last year. In making my decision I looked at a few things. 2 years ago a few friends ditched their Zipp 404’s for regular rims because of crosswinds affecting stability. Those are expensive wheels to have and not be riding. I also know some days are windy or gusty in the wrong direction or hilly and that makes those days “bad” disc days. There are so many exceptions. I am not a big guy so I went with feathery wheels like 303’s and I climb really well in them due to weight savings and they don’t catch bad wind(but they are not bad-ass wind cheaters either!)–but that is one view or opinion. Take many factors into account before you spend your $$$.
Thanks guys, I am not sure if I can use disc wheels in Kona? Do you train on the Zipp’s also? Are the 404’s disc and the 303’s non disc wheels?
Thanks Again for the help…
One other question I had also, What is the difference between clincher’s and tubular’s?
Thanks Guy’s…
I don’t know about the half, but Ironman is one of the few places that don’t allow discs. Luckily I still have my HED Jet Deep. 
Zipp 404s are deep section (58mm) carbon wheels and are considered very aero. Their 909 wheelset is a front 404 and a rear disc. The 303s are super lightweight, not as deep (38mm), carbon wheels. The HED3 is a 3 spoke carbon wheel, considered by some as the most aero wheel next to a disc.
The front wheel is most affected by crosswinds, so some people go with a 303 or other lightweight, shallow wheel up front and a disc in the back.
I am 5’11", 160 lbs., and a strong (FOP) rider. I ride a HED Jet front and a HED Disc or Jet Deep rear. I used to take my Deep to all my races, ‘just in case,’ but found that I never used it. I would like to get a HED3 for the front. I feel that any wheel can feel sketchy in a strong crosswind, but aero wheels make you go faster in it. YYMV
The quick answer is - “yes”, you will benefit from good race wheels.
However, the problem is that you have OK wheels on the bike now. Most bikes now-a-days come with psuedo-aero wheels that will serve well for BOTH training and racing. The BEST set up is as follows:
Sell the wheels on the bike you have.
Get a set of training wheels: Clincher, box rim, non-aero, 32 or 36 holers with 25 or 28 mm tires on them. Think: Big. Heavy. Ugly
Get the lightest, most aero-dynamic racing wheels that you can afford. Preferably tubular. You can’t go wrong with a set of ZIPP 404’s.
When you put the race wheels on after riding hundreds of miles on the training wheels the bike will feel like it’s driving itself!! No kidding - you should be able to ride 2 - 3 gears larger than on the training wheels depending on the conditions.
Tubulars are fast, clinchers aren’t. JK
Tubulars are glued onto the rim, clinchers are more like car tires, but with a tube.
Tubulars are generally lighter (wheel and tire).
Tubulars are generally regarded as smoother rolling.
Tubulars can generally run higher pressures.
Tubulars generally are less prone to flats.
Tubulars are faster to change in a race, but aren’t as secure afterwards.
Tubulars are generally more expensive.
Tubulars are more difficult/messy/time consuming to install.
Tubulars generally can corner better (rounder profile).
Discs are allowed in the Keauhou race.
So would it be safe to say I can continue to train on my Richie clincher’s and get a set of Zipp tubular’s to race on?
THANKS AGAIN…
yes
.
You have a nice bike, why not treat yourself to a nice set of tubular race wheels?
Get a Renn rear (after this business with the storm) disc for the other races (other than Kona), and a set of Nimble Fly wheels for the other times. You will have something like $1150 invested in race wheels, which includes a pair of lightweight and pretty aero wheels and a disc for the full-aero benefit.
Search through this forum and find my answers for why tubulars are better. The best wheelsets are available in tubular, and this is what about 75% of the pro peloton rides. Don’t waste your money and time on a set of clinchers. If you want to ride clinchers, ride the wheels that are currently on your bike.
901-725-2211 Renn (for the disc)
800-531-6331 Nimble (for the Fly)
did you say “need”? yeah - they are fun and there is a benefit. i am surprised, tho, that nobody has so much a salluded to what that benefit might be in terms of seconds, or need. according to most data, in a general sense, a disc with a new fancy front will give you betwen 31/2 and maybe 6 minutes in your 1/2 IM. now, assuming there will several guys at least finishing behind you by that amount of time and having a good time, we can say that you do not need them. or, we could ask what the difference would be, in the larger scope if you finished 4 minutes faster? 1st place vs second - or 245th place vs 246th?? cetainly your wallet will several hunnie lighter, for those couple minutes. how much you need one or the other is up to you, but it is good to know what you are buying.
or. . . . . .say i had a pair of shoes for sale that were guaranteed to make you run 20 sec per mile faster than you do normally. but, they cost around 800 bones and you can only - or should only - use them on race day ( rough equivalent).
would you think you needed them?
In a rough est. in a 1/2 Ironman on the P2K what would the time diff. be between the Richey wheel and say a Zipp 404? Say that your average speed is around 20 MPH, I know it is tough to say just in theory.
you can probably get an extra 1-1.5MPH out of a more aerodynamic wheel setup over a 1/2 IM. but don’t spend $1k on wheels and then throw on a flapping-in-the-wind bike jersey at the race. it would also be money well spent to get fitted properly as a given a choice between decent fit and aero wheels vs excellent fit and decent wheels, the better fit would probably result in a faster time. if you have the dough then do both.
good bike choice.
not to create a thread drift here, but hasn’t the technology in wheels made the difference between clinchers and tubulars very minor (like, a few grams)? i haven’t had the luxury of riding both in order to make a personal judgement on them. i ride clincher race wheels (hed 3 or mavic cosmic carbone front, renn disc rear).
Thanks, I think I will go with the Zipp 404’s. I have been told to go with a Tubular, however I am use to changing the Clincher’s and from what I understand you have to carry an extra tire with you on race day with the tubular’s that has some glue already on it before the race. I guess you put this tire around yor handlebars?
Yes, you have to carry a spare tubular tire. Make sure you pre-stretch and pre-glue it or you will have a heck of time getting it on and keeping it on. I fold up my spare and tape it to my seat tube/post.