I’m doing an olympic length tri in three weeks, and have done 3 sprints previously. I ride a Bianchi San Mateo that I’ve set up with aerobars and changed the geometry more towards a tri setup. I just ordered a set of Neuvation R28 Aero wheels to replace the stock wheels. Currently riding on Conti Ultra Gatorskins. During training I’ve been averaging 20-22mpg for 30-40mi rides.
I was wondering if ordering an inexpensive set of race tires would benefit me during the upcoming tri. Something in the sub-$100 range.
That being said, also wondering if there are any other low-cost upgrades that would have a significant impact on my racing. Funds are tight right now!
I was wondering if ordering an inexpensive set of race tires would benefit me during the upcoming tri. Something in the sub-$100 range.
Life is too short to ride on shitty tires. I ride on good tires all the time - Michelin Pro Race 3’s. They roll great. Are very comfortable. Stick like glue in the corners and rarely flat. What’s not to like. I don’t really “Race” anymore, but if I did I would have these tires on all my wheels.
I’m doing an olympic length tri in three weeks, and have done 3 sprints previously. I ride a Bianchi San Mateo that I’ve set up with aerobars and changed the geometry more towards a tri setup. I just ordered a set of Neuvation R28 Aero wheels to replace the stock wheels. Currently riding on Conti Ultra Gatorskins. ** During training I’ve been averaging 20-22mpg for 30-40mi rides. **
I was wondering if ordering an inexpensive set of race tires would benefit me during the upcoming tri. Something in the sub-$100 range.
That being said, also wondering if there are any other low-cost upgrades that would have a significant impact on my racing. Funds are tight right now!
Thanks all.
Drinking a bit less than 20 mpg will probably speed you up more than anything. I can’t imagine that being a comfortable amount of fluid for that kind of distance…
On a more serious note… another relatively cheap option will be an aero helmet. jackmott may chime in about a wheelcover as well…
My thoughts exactly…and I even extend that sentiment to tubes as well
…and for training tires, you don’t really have to spend LOTS to get “good” tires either. If you look at Al’s list, there’s some REALLY inexpensive Bonty tires (such as the Sport 25C or Select 23C) that actually roll better than tires costing up to 3-4X as much…
There is nothing that will immediately improve ride quality than a fresh set of nice tires. Might not make you faster, but smoother/more comfortable for certain…
since this thread is here, and you’re the go to guy on stuff like tires…
What about a good solid set of puncture resistant tires?
at just over 200lbs, i tend to flat like a mofo. No pinches- but tiny shards of rock/glass seem to work their way through the old hutchinsons i have, the maxxis’s i have on my other bike, and the mondo pro’s i had on my other bike (got rid of them). Id say i flat every couple hundred miles. At first i just replaced tubes, then i started patching (tubes get way expensive) but its just ridiculous. I now look through my tires after every few rides and pick out the stuff working its way in with tweezers, or whatever else could get it out.
are GP4000 flat resistant enough? what makes the GP4000S any better? or the black chili version?
someone mentioned some schwalbe flat resistant tires- but they’re in the 60$ range, and heavy (yea i know, so am i, but why not save a little weight where i can)
since this thread is here, and you’re the go to guy on stuff like tires…
What about a good solid set of puncture resistant tires?
at just over 200lbs, i tend to flat like a mofo. No pinches- but tiny shards of rock/glass seem to work their way through the old hutchinsons i have, the maxxis’s i have on my other bike, and the mondo pro’s i had on my other bike (got rid of them). Id say i flat every couple hundred miles. At first i just replaced tubes, then i started patching (tubes get way expensive) but its just ridiculous. I now look through my tires after every few rides and pick out the stuff working its way in with tweezers, or whatever else could get it out.
are GP4000 flat resistant enough? what makes the GP4000S any better? or the black chili version?
someone mentioned some schwalbe flat resistant tires- but they’re in the 60$ range, and heavy (yea i know, so am i, but why not save a little weight where i can)
thoughts?
Try the 4000S tires (i.e. black chili version) you mention above. The tread compound is VERY durable, there’s a Vectran puncture belt, and they actually roll in about the same class as a Michelin Pro2Race.
Personally…I avoid any tire that has as it’s main selling point “flat resistance”…since, IME, that just means that they’re SLOOOOWWW
edit: No matter what tire you run though, if you’re running over enough stuff that it gets embedded in your tires as you describe, you should keep going with your process of checking them over and picking out the offending articles.
“tiny shards of rock/glass seem to work their way through the…”
Same in my area. After every ride I wipe my tires (and rims) down with a damp rag, inspect them for debris and pick out any junk with a dental pick. (I once picked 49 pieces of glass and a sharp rock out of my rear tire-a PR3/Bontrager Ultra-Lite tubes. It didn’t flat.) This has saved me much money and grief for a few minutes of work.
(I wipe down my chain and drive system, too. I got over 10k miles from my last set and they were actually still good.)
I’m 6’4" 230-255 lbs over the last few years. I’ve put over 10,000 miles on Gatorskins without a single flat. Before those I would flat every 100-200 miles. Sometimes more often. That being said I race on Vittoria Corsa Evo CXs. I can definitely tell a difference at all speeds. From handling, to braking, to flat out speed, they are better. I definitely think it’s a good idea to race on different tires than you train on if not a whole race wheelset. Good luck!
