Question regarding the P3C’s horizontal drop-outs screws…I’ve had my P3C now for 3+ weeks and have a couple hundred miles under the wheels, and every couple of rides my rear tire seams to be rubbing against the seattube, thus forcing me to adjust the horizontal drop-outs screws.
Any insight/thoughts…short of my using some Pro Lok (thread lock)…
Regards - “One slow engine on a rocket”
i’ve had a similar problem…just have been adjusting the scews from time to time.
I would check with Gerard to make sure this is okay on the C (I am about 99.9% sure it would be). What I have done on my P3 is put a small bit of Locktite 242 (BLUE) on the threads to keep them secure and prevent them from moving.
Yea, but that doesn’t make a whole lot of sense…What are we gonna due…stop in the middle of an IM and ask for a philips head from the next person who passes us…not 
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I would check with Gerard to make sure this is okay on the C (I am about 99.9% sure it would be). What I have done on my P3 is put a small bit of Locktite 242 (BLUE) on the threads to keep them secure and prevent them from moving.
lol, that would suck. Mine doesn’t seem to be that big an issue…as I usually check it about once a week or so…
Oh…and if you are moving the wheel - I dont care how strong you think you are…if you can move the wheel with the QR locked, you need to tighten the QR, and or get a QR with teeth on the insides of the ends where it contacts the frame. There SHOULD be marks in the frame from where you tighten the QR.
you could also add in a jam nut if there is enough room. Basically find a small nut that fits the adjustment screw, lock tight it and tighten it up against the frame end of the screw after you have the position adjusted right to keep the screw from moving in. Two nuts back to back are the correct way to do it but I’m not sure if it would fit. Looks like it’d fit on my P3sl. I guess be careful with the nuts biting into the carbon though, not sure what the drop outs look like exactly on the P3C.
But on another level, like another poster said your skewer should hold everything in place…
Tai’s got it. Even if you are stripped this will work without having to re-tap, and how often can you re-tap. Its’ a fairly common problem. ANother guy here says he got ball-bearings of the right size and epoxied them at the front of the screw holes–did not use the screws at all.
Did you try this Locktite 242 trick? Did it work for you?
Don’t own a P3C but couldn’t you use teflon (plumber’s) tape on the threads? Seems to work for other things to keep screws from coming loose.
KW
Oi! I hate reading about this kind of stuff! It just gets me frustrated about the evolution and advancement of bikes in general. I understand the reason for the horizontal dropouts and aerodynamics, etc… but the fact remains- a lot of these ‘advancements’ require several solutions for the problems they create. I don’t know how many times I’ve read about creaking aero seatposts, frustration with horizontal dropouts, problems with internal cables, creaking integrated headsets… the list goes on. End rant.
And my vote is for some low to medium strength thread locking compound.
Depends on whether the screws are loose or the aluminum is stripped inside.
I have an SL, and once, strangely enough, the wheel must have been in cock-eyed and skewer did not hold the wheel in place as it bent the screw quite dramatically (I did not check it when it was in for service at my non-Cervelo LBS). Thus, the replacement screw is slightly larger and “sticks” quite well, but I can see that the original screw could move and would not hesitate to use a tad of the thread lock stuff. Those little screws are tough to get just right.