On my SLC-SL I use DA 7800. I find it hard to change between the big and small chain rings. To change to the big ring requires a double application of the shifter. To change back down sometimes it throws the chain too far and it drops on the inside. Initially I thought it may have been the SRM wireless spider spacing. But I don’t have problems when using the same SRM on my other bikes. The other day I thought about trying to adjust the front shifter but going by the Shimano wrenches manual it appeared as though it had been set up right. Out of curiosity I measured (as best as possible) the width across the bb and it seems as though it’s wider on the SLC then it is on my Giant TCR aero and Kestrel Airfoil Pro (which are both the same). This would appear to explain why I am having trouble. My question therefore is whether other SLC-SL users have experienced similar problems?
you know the front derailleur his limit screws right?
Yes I am aware of this. I am not that ‘mechanically savvy’ however following the Shimano manual it gives recommended spacing to the chain from the guide based on being in certain ring/gear combos (for setting the limit screws). It’s already in such a position. For example small ring, largest (tooth) gear the chain is essentially rubbing the inside of the guide. To set adjust the limit screws to the right (ie make it easier to push across) isn’t this just going to make that combo rub more or are they independent?
You mean the manual is not 100% correct for all circumstances? Damn, Damn these bicycles. Damn them all to hades!
And to the OP, um…yeah, let out the limit screws…then again, why not just get Campy?
Does this pre-date your crash?
Yes I am aware of this. I am not that ‘mechanically savvy’ however following the Shimano manual it gives recommended spacing to the chain from the guide based on being in certain ring/gear combos (for setting the limit screws).
Sounds like limit screws to me. If you aren’t comfortable making such an adjustment (it’s not major maintenance, but it is possible to do it wrong), take it to your LBS.
If you’re a good customer, the wrench probably won’t charge you anything; if you are not, you might get a $10-$20 charge, but then you will have good shifting again.
Yes this was totally unrelated to the crash and has been since day 1. Whilst I was writing about the crash I figured I would ask the question again (I was pretty sure I asked some time ago and a few people said that they too experienced changing issues. I guess they were just as mechanically inept as I am!
You see this is the type of answer I should have got up front. Detailed but without being patronising. Thanks for resisting any temptation to be a smarty pants. Some people just ride bikes and let others (ie LBSs) deal with the running of the bike. I mean Chrissie Wellington couldn’t even fix a flat tyre at the World Champs! I can at least do that.
Cheers
MIke
Fair enough, I hope you get it sorted out once the crash problems are resolved.
When in the small ring take the derailleur cable all the way off (best) or at least check the cable tension to be sure it is loose. If there is some cable tension it will pull the cage over slightly making it seem like the limit is set properly when in fact it is resting on the cable tension, not the limit screw.
I hope that first part makes more sense to mv2005.