Question about Bikes and some real advice would be nice!

Triathlon Forum
1

2012 will be my third year in the Triathlon scene. I finally hit the podium in my final race of last year in my AG. About two years ago, I purchased a regular road bike (performance bikes) to get something carbon, and to make sure I wanted to stay with it. I do not have a great deal of money and I am at the point in my racing where I would like to train to get to Kona and simply really compete. No wins or anything like that, but take my game to the next level.I am hoping for 2013. That being said, I am a family man, I am 30 years old, 6’0 tall and weigh about 155 lbs during race season. I have a young son and money is tight. While I know there is not a bike out there for everyone, I am very lost in trying to decide on a purchase. It is really overwhelming. Every company says the same things about we are the most aero, and this and that. I have spent about 5 months just studying what is out there and I am dizzy. I need a bike, I do not care what it looks like so much as function. I have a very tight budget. My wife and I have saved up for almost a year about 4,000 dollars to get one for next year. I know that in the world of the Shiv and P4 that is not a great deal, but I work my ass off every day to get there and I will. For now, I need a bike that I can get to Kona with (of course the engine is the most important thing, but I am finally there mentally), that will last me at least 4 years, I take great care of my stuff. I want the most bang for my buck. I am not even opposed to getting one a year older. I was thinking after all my research, the Quintanaroo CDo1 Ultegra but again, I am pulled in so many directions, I figured I would ask the expert and go from there.

. Any help would be great.

2

I think $4000 will definitely get you a great bike, and the QR CD0.1 is really nice.

You might want to consider something a little more affordable, like the QR Seduza (I’m a bit biased, since that’s what I have). It’s a bit cheaper, but still carbon fiber and a good base for future upgrades. That would leave you some budget room for some wheels (maybe the FLOs when they come out) and/or the other costs like a good fitting, pedals, hydration stuff, etc. You can always upgrade eventually.

3

I appreciate the response. I saved this money for almost 2.5 years so it is a one shot deal at this point. I am going to take notes on all the replies that come in and decide. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Jonathan

4

2012 will be my third year in the Triathlon scene. I finally hit the podium in my final race of last year in my AG. About two years ago, I purchased a regular road bike (performance bikes) to get something carbon, and to make sure I wanted to stay with it. I do not have a great deal of money and I am at the point in my racing where I would like to train to get to Kona and simply really compete. No wins or anything like that, but take my game to the next level.I am hoping for 2013. That being said, I am a family man, I am 30 years old, 6’0 tall and weigh about 155 lbs during race season. I have a young son and money is tight. While I know there is not a bike out there for everyone, I am very lost in trying to decide on a purchase. It is really overwhelming. Every company says the same things about we are the most aero, and this and that. I have spent about 5 months just studying what is out there and I am dizzy. I need a bike, I do not care what it looks like so much as function. I have a very tight budget. My wife and I have saved up for almost a year about 4,000 dollars to get one for next year. I know that in the world of the Shiv and P4 that is not a great deal, but I work my ass off every day to get there and I will. For now, I need a bike that I can get to Kona with (of course the engine is the most important thing, but I am finally there mentally), that will last me at least 4 years, I take great care of my stuff. I want the most bang for my buck. I am not even opposed to getting one a year older. I was thinking after all my research, the Quintanaroo CDo1 Ultegra but again, I am pulled in so many directions, I figured I would ask the expert and go from there.

. Any help would be great.

i’m guessing with your focus on a tight budget that you have already looked into the cost of going to Kona correct? it’s an expensive year. you will have to enter a IM, travel, lodging, training…then in the chance that the 30-34 age group you land a slot you then have the cost of a Kona entry, travel, shipping your bike, lodging, meals, and more training.

your $4000 bike is the LEAST of your worries.

shops used

i am rolling a Shiv with Di2 for $5k… so shop wisely.

5

$4,000 is plenty to spend to get a Kona-worthy bike. The new Shiv Crowie had has a $3300 version, for example.

Some thoughts:

Get race wheels first (they will speed up your current bike and xfer to your new one). Go with 60-80mm wheels (lots of good used sets <$1000 in the ST classifieds) and spend $100 for a disc cover for the rear.
Get an aero helmet (if you don’t already have one)
The Cd0.1 appears on Bonktown from time to time for $1999 (just leave a browser tab open and check occasionally).
Don’t worry much about components; Red isn’t faster than Force or Rival. Even 105 is race-worthy.

6

if money is tight you could get a used Cervelo P2 for just under $2k. Then you aren’t risking financial security yet you still have a top notch bike. You could even go cheaper and get a used P1/P2k aluminum bike for $1000 and still have a better tri bike than most people

I wouldn’t recommend spending $4k on your first tri bike, there is a good chance it won’t be the ideal size for you, since its hard to know what position you will end up in.

but if you want to spend the big bucks:

The QR CD01 is a great bike. Cervelo P2/P3 are great bikes, the new Shiv Tri would probably be the fastest bike in your budget, so that is a consideration as well.

spend the money on the best frame, whether the components are ultegra or dura ace or 105 doesn’t matter.

7

i can’t speak to your specific situation, because i don’t know whether you ride steep or shallow, or whether you’re long in the torso or in the legs or average morphology.

but…

i think you’re over-spending at $4000, given your economic situation. that’s a ton of money for a bike. i think more like $2500 ought to do it. there are several felts, cervelos (P2), cannondales, and so forth out there in the $2xxx range.

now, further to that point, consider that there are new models of shivs out there, replacing the “old and worn out” transitions that are PERFECTLY GOOD BIKES! accordingly, the enterprising shopper looks for the specialized dealer with these in stock needing to unload them and just get their money back. i would think you should be able to find transitions for 30 percent off.

the cd0.1 is also a great choice. remember, tho, that this is the time of year when deals are out there. cash is king, esp for last year’s models (this year’s models which will soon become last year’s models).

if i were you, i would not spend even $3000. a “2” would be the first digit. take that extra money and buy the wife a really, really (not all you can eat, but top shelf) sushi dinner, and then wait for the online sales of apparel (i believe de soto’s got a sale going on now, don’t they?). think closeout. do not buy ANYTHING unless it’s 25 or 30 points off msrp.

that’s what i’d do. of course, you’re not going to get the current model stuff. but so what? i’ve got a p3 that’s 6 years old in my garage, and my everyday rider road bike is 5 years old. they’re perfectly good. my slice is 2 years old. i don’t need a new one. but for those who do, they’ll be coming to a store soon.

you’re not in that category. i’m not saying buy used. buy new. just, don’t buy current.

8

x2 on a Cervelo P2. Lots of bike for the money. And I don’t even own a Cervelo.

9

or a slice or trek speed concept 7
same ballpark as the p2
.

10

Of course I’m totally biased, but the CD0.1 Ultegra for 2012 is $3200 and is as fast as any bike on the market. Throw in an extra $1,000 and you get Reynolds Strike 66mm deep carbon clinchers to go with it. 2011 bikes might be on sale at you LBS which would leave you a bunch of coin to upgrade parts.

Make sure it fits, but you can get a ton of bike with $4K.

11

I just saw a CD0.1 ultegra, brand new 2011, sell on ebay for $1700 with $50 shipping.

A shiv and a CD0.1 have very different geometries. you likely would fit on one, but not the other.

If you’re on a ‘very tight budget’, spend less on the bike, and instead get a proper fitting, pick up an aero helmet, a HED Jet up front and a wheelbuilder cover for your rear.

12

All good responses so far. I would not spend $4k on a bike unless it was a package that included frame, drivetrain, handlebars, versatile race wheels, wheel cover, aerohelmet, etc. Essentially the whole sha-bang. Even in that case you could probably source all that for under $4k.

13

The bike frame itself is probably the worst place to spend money to gain speed. I think the only thing that is worse in a bang-for-your-buck sense is the drivetrain. I think it goes something like this: Position > helmet > tires > wheels > frame > drivetrain.

The best way to get faster is good position on the bike. But there is a chicken and egg kind of thing. You don’t really know what a good position is until you have ridden for a while in that position. Ideally, you would pay a good fitter to help you, buy a bike that works with that position, ride the bike for 6 months, get refit, ride 6 more months, get refit, buy a new bike if you position has changed enough, … However, you should be able to get fit, buy a bike, ride for a while and then hopefully readjust by removing spacers and using a different stem.

For the wheels, if you are focusing on getting to Kona, just rent some for your qualifying race. No point in spending $$$$ for something you are only going to use once a year.

I do agree that getting last years model is totally the way to go. In 6 months you won’t care if you have a 2010, 2011 or 2012 bike.

14

Check out the Kestrel 4000 - lots of price points there, and supposedly as aero as p3. Plus it’s pretty awesome looking, and not everyone has one.

Personally I would wait for a sale for a new bike, or find a deal on the classifieds on a used specialized transition, any cervelo, cannondale slice or kestrel 4000. I would set your bike budget at ~2000 (you’ll be able to get ultegra/dura ace if you go used, or rival/105 if you go new at that price point). Spend <400 on a deep front wheel, 100 on a wheel cover, 100 on a helmet.

15

I would say definitely buy something that is used/last season that fits. You can find 3-4 year old P3’s for $2000 on ebay left and right. (I just looked, and there is currently a P3 with a powertap disc, mavic trispoke and SRAM red for 3k). Take the extra 2k you save, get a used PT wheelset with wheel cover, deep dish front, aero helmet and you are set.

If it fits, you could probably get a Slice with Force/105 for $1500 close to new. There’s one on ebay for $1300 with a few days left.

John

16

Everyone,

Thank you so much for the information. I am very glad I decided to post this. I was hoping to get away with getting something quality without spending my pot. I will certainly take all the advice and get something in the 2k range as Dan and others suggested and take the wife out. She deserves it for putting up with all my training. That being said, if you come across “good buys” that may interest me, do not hesitate to send them my way. I will be looking to make the purchase within the next couple of months so time is on my side.

Thank you everyone for the help.

Cheers,

Jonathan

17

At that price point there are a lot of options.

A 2011 P2 is about $2400, a 2012 is about $2800 at a bike shop. Chrissie Wellington managed to win Kona twice on that bike. There are some spectacular Cervelo P3s on ebay right now. You could pick up a bike that is able to run with the big dogs and have money left over for sweet wheels and a helmet. You might even be able to buy one that already comes with the race wheels.

good luck in your search.

18

My tri bike was 600 bucks from Craiglist, my deep wheels 800 bucks from ST. My bike is in no way my limiting factor. Please don’t spend more than you can comfortably afford. It really is not necessary.

This is trite, but avoid the trap: spend $$$ on a fancy bike; work harder to pay for fancy bike; never ride fancy bike because you are working too much; get beaten by guys on cheap bikes who ride everyday.

19

I’m in a similar boat to you my friend, middle-middle class AGer with young kids. On a budget for sure. I’ve won a few AGs over the years but never really focused on tri alone. Now’s the time I think and my wife was willing to support some gear spending.

First, definitely spend $$$ on a good fitter, preferably before the bike purchase and then again after (often this can only be done cheaply through a shop that you buy the bike at, buy the bike elsewhere and you’ll probably pay quite a bit more). Get the fit, enjoy riding some different bikes and figure out what falls into the range of feeling decent and making the numbers you need happen. Take advantage of trickle down economy here (it does exist in cycling!) and grab a 2nd or 3rd tier bike that mimics the superbike of a given company. And/or do as Dan suggests and buy a leftover '10 or '11. Speedconcept 7xs feel great for example and are probably very close to the “superbike” when all is said and done. I wouldn’t suggest used unless you have an experienced friend who can help…pro mechanic or bike junkie type. There are just too many things can hide in a bike’s past that will make it a costly adventure. That is unless you want to buy my B2 for cheap that is :wink:

Its been said elsewhere but an aero helmet, a solid, efficent position, a lightweight training wheel with a cover, a deep front and lots of time to train is most of the advantage an AGer needs to hang with the big dogs. Easily <$1500 for all five items if you don’t count the opportunity costs and worth more off your race time than any specific frame.

Just an example of the math(not endorsements BTW, just how it could work out for you to maximize your dollars):
$250 fitting at a shop (FIST or at least tri specific shop is a must)
$2300 2011 Trek Speed Concept 7.0 on sale
$165 Giro Advantage 2 Helmet
$600-650 Zipp 808 Front Wheel. Used, no FC
$225 Mavic Open Pro/Shimano Ultegra rear wheel. Slightly lighter than the stock wheel that’s coming on your SC, less wear and tear on your race tire/wheelcover. You’ll probably want a 2nd cassette so the switchover is quick too.
$100 Wheelbuilder Cover
$3640 total not including tax.

I did more or less the above, sold a few pieces of unused gear too though and am building up a 9 series speed concept for about the same outlay.

Cheers, see you at AG nationals in 2013 :slight_smile:

20

assuming it fits, NYTRO has a cannondale slice sale going on now and while it may not be a “superbike”, chrissy seems to go pretty fast on it. that said, as dan alluded to, buy past season if you don’t feel comfortable buying used. the position you need “should” determine what frame you end up with. if it can get you into your desired postition WITHOUT a ton of spacers, you’re good. as a side note, how mechanically inclined are you? if you get a “superbike” or something very new it may have proprietary parts that may make traveling, disassembling, and reassembling your ride a headache. i have a bike with a hidden rear brake and it’s a bit of an inconvenience to adjust.

after you land on a bike, go with the aero wheels, helmet, etc. if i had to do it over again, i’d get a bike that fits well AND then get either a powertap or an SRM. training with power, done correctly, will give you a huge return on your investment. get a wheelcover and you’ll be able to race with power and, theoretically, dial in your effort perfectly so you can dismount T2 and go crush the run. remember, there’s no such thing as a “good bike split” if it means you end up sacrificing your run. it’s a triathlon, not a cycling time trial so you gotta be comfy, be able to take in nutrition, and be able to run off the bike if you plan on racing long.

good luck with your goals, let us know what you end up with, and don’t forget to put your family first.