So yesterday I got caught out in a rain storm while training on my Power Tap Pro. Everything worked fine except the cadence went out for a little while (which seems to be a known occurance.) I go out today and my watts are way off (under 100) and so is my speed (over 25 nearly the whole way) and jumping by 3 or 4 mph. I ignore the system and do my ride anyway. I get home, clean everything up, decide to replace the hub batteries and computer battery - still everything way off. I have two bikes with harnesses and try it on both - still off. Right now I have the cover off and hoping things will dry out and work again. But, even if it does - how worried should I be? If water is getting in there and doing this then aren’t I headed for failure down the road?? I thought the pro was supposed to be less prone to weather failure, and I’ve ridden this in worse conditions. Just weird why it would screw up now, anyone else had similar experiences??? Or any ideas on how to fix it? Thanks.
Use a lot of dielectric grease on the inner and outer o ring next time you get your wheel.
Did you re-zero the wheel?
If that doesn’t fix it - I’ve had the same problem in a similar situation and it was either a coincidence or the water finally worked it’s way in some how, and I had to send it in for repairs.
Contact Saris/Graber. Their customer support is awesome.
What do you mean by re zero the wheel? Same as zeroing torque?? Done that…to no avail. I tried again and the speed seems to be workin okay but the watts are way off. I guess I’ll let it dry overnight and see what happens.
My bad, I meant re-zero the torque.
The electronics got wet. Likely, it’s doomed in the long run when it corrodes enough (like mine did). If it comes back normally, just brace yourself for the day of failure. You can ship it back now, or you can ship it back later…
I agree that you will probably need to send it back soon. I have the SL and it got wet. The next day cadence did not work, it did not read power by the middle of the ride, and the hub went dead by the end of the ride. Saris took it back and returned it. I have learned my lesson: ride a different wheel if it is wet.
The electronics got wet. Likely, it’s doomed in the long run when it corrodes enough (like mine did). If it comes back normally, just brace yourself for the day of failure. You can ship it back now, or you can ship it back later…
Nonsense. I’ve had my original Tune Power Tap hub (the most affected by rain of all their models) and it’s gotten wet to the point of not working until it dried out. I’ve had it for about 10 years, and it has never needed to be sent back. I’d guess it’s been non-functional about 5 days out of that period, and I use it for >95% of the rides in that 10 years.
This is all well and good but what I want to know is how I can insulate my reciever from outside EM interference. I swear I can’t use my PT indoors because one of my neighbors is using a machine to transmit secrets to Beijing.
Works fine on the road.
Ski.
or… get lots of tinfoil. Haven’t you beat this horse to death? Also, lay off the racial epithet subtext.
If you can get access to the circuit board, you might try getting some Flux off or circuit board cleaner from Fry’s or Radio Shack and spraying the crap out of it, getting between pins and under IC’s as much as possible. Avoid spraying the display of course. Make sure the battery is out while you do this. Might work, might not.
What SWoo said. Contact Graber - they are pretty accommodating. I also thought the pro was less of a problem in the rain, but luckily have not had the opportunity to test this yet!
Not to hijack your thread, but has anyone else had the problem where their average speed doesn’t make sense after a ride? Almost every long ride I have a mileage total that makes sense based on my route, but the average speed the power tap says is lower than my math says it is. My watch usually has a little less time on it than the PT (due to starting/stopping), but even if I use the total time on the PT, it is still off, and it always is a slower average speed.
What SWoo said. Contact Graber - they are pretty accommodating. I also thought the pro was less of a problem in the rain, but luckily have not had the opportunity to test this yet!
Not to hijack your thread, but has anyone else had the problem where their average speed doesn’t make sense after a ride? Almost every long ride I have a mileage total that makes sense based on my route, but the average speed the power tap says is lower than my math says it is. My watch usually has a little less time on it than the PT (due to starting/stopping), but even if I use the total time on the PT, it is still off, and it always is a slower average speed.
I have found the average speed off too. I have changed the tire circumferences when I switch tires, and this doesn’t seem to help. For instance, this past weekend in a race it said my avg was 21.7 mph for 30K, but based on time and distance it was more like 24.7. But its funny, cause I just use power now and don’t worry about speed; however, I would like to have it fixed…any help???
Same with me - I focus more on the power as immediate feedback during the ride, but it’d be nice to have the speed right too when I check it at the end, especially for my long rides when I’m curious what kind of speed I’ve maintained and how consistent I’ve been.
I keep meaning to e-mail someone at Graber to ask them this but then I forget. Maybe this thread will make me get it done today. I’ll pm you if I get an answer.
re: average speed - are you downloading the data or just relying on the display? From what I remember, the downloaded data is the best thing to rely on as the CPU only has so many bits for accuracy and also may be set for different modes of averaging IIRC.
Make sure, in your setup, that you’re not including periods of 0 MPH, and/or zero power. The notes suggest this is a default, but it shouldn’t be.
I’m pretty sure I’m seeing it on the display and the downloads - I’ll have to go back and check the downloaded data, but I think it’s wrong in both places (because I always hope it will work itself out once I get it off the display).
I think (or thought) it is set up to not include periods of 0 MPH. But are you saying it is supposed to be a default but that maybe it isn’t - maybe I need to change the settings? Or are you saying you think it should default to recording 0 mph? In a race this wouldn’t be a problem because you shouldn’t ever be going 0 mph, which might explain my problems on training rides when I do have to stop. I haven’t gotten to use mine in a race or ride with no stops yet, so am not sure if it would work correctly with no stops.
I got mine second hand and it was already NOT including zeros, but the notes say something like
" omit zeros just in case you are curious to find out your avg speed without counting them", which seemed wierd, and suggested that it was the default.
Maybe I will recheck my settings then - does sound weird, and might explain a whole bunch.
The electronics got wet. Likely, it’s doomed in the long run when it corrodes enough (like mine did). If it comes back normally, just brace yourself for the day of failure. You can ship it back now, or you can ship it back later…
Nonsense. I’ve had my original Tune Power Tap hub (the most affected by rain of all their models) and it’s gotten wet to the point of not working until it dried out. I’ve had it for about 10 years, and it has never needed to be sent back. I’d guess it’s been non-functional about 5 days out of that period, and I use it for >95% of the rides in that 10 years.
Yeah, I know others with the same results (your results). But I think I’ll go w/ what the dude at Graber told me, which is what I typed above.