I just started putting my TT bike together and the Di2 FD won’t go low enough for my compact cranks. Is there any way to get this to work? At this point the only way I see getting the bike built with is to get rid of Di2 and get a cabled FD that will get me low enough.
Any and all help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff
Is it bottoming out on the top of the braze on hanger or is the bolt hitting the bottom of the hanger? I don’t think that a mechanical Shimano FD will even get you there. Older SRAM FDs (non-Yaw) have two mounting holes which will allow it to go lower.
Did you have the compact cranks (50T) on before going Electronic? I think SRAM Front Derailleurs play nicer with that mount.
Yes, P2C also has crazy high FD “braze on” mount.
I’m running a 54 tooth large ring and it’s at the bottom of the slot.
That’s with 10 speed 7800 series Dura Ace.
I need to find out if it can be drilled out and pop riveted back on in location that makes a whit of sense.
Yes, P2C also has crazy high FD “braze on” mount.
I’m running a 54 tooth large ring and it’s at the bottom of the slot.
That’s with 10 speed 7800 series Dura Ace.
I need to find out if it can be drilled out and pop riveted back on in location that makes a whit of sense.
I see the 10 speed P2 has a compact 50/34 I believe, so how are they making it work?
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I dug through some old threads.
Looks like the slipped in a FD hanger change half way through 2008 to lower it on P2C.
Have no idea why a P3 would be so high though.
Full-size Q-rings.
Get out your Dremel. Refer to this thread for the details. Worked like a charm in my 2006 R3.
Hi pritchet,
That frame’s not compatible with compact cranks, sorry. Consider changing the chainring to 53 or more.
As another poster mentioned, newer models have the hanger bonded lower, to work better with compact.
Cheers,
The bolt is hitting the bottom of the hanger. I don’t see how a Dremel will fix that unfortunately.
I will look into a SRAM or possibly an old 10s Campagnolo compact FD. Hopefully one of those will get me low enough. I need to get the compact to work as I don’t want to have to buy a SRM specifically for this build.
Why don’t you use a front mech riser block turned the other way?
http://www.trainsharpcyclecoaching.co.uk/srm/TrainSharp-Front-Derailleur-riser-Block-SKU911141.html
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Looks to me like there is enough “meat” to lengthen the slot in the FD hanger to at least get you low enough for it to work. Di2 is pretty good at accommodating non optimal FD positioning.
Hi pritchet,
That frame’s not compatible with compact cranks, sorry. Consider changing the chainring to 53 or more.
As another poster mentioned, newer models have the hanger bonded lower, to work better with compact.
Cheers,
So, what date did the frames change on the P2 and P3 so that they work with compact cranks?
Hi H2O,
It was a running change, somewhere around 2008 or so, as mentioned above. If you’re buying a used one, check to be sure. If it has a 50, it fits compact. If it has a 53, look to see if there’s about 6 mm of downward adjustment in the slot. (Each tooth needs about 2 mm adjustment.)
Cheers,
Thanks.
Have the 2015’s hit the stores yet?
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Why don’t you use a front mech riser block turned the other way?
http://www.trainsharpcyclecoaching.co.uk/...Block-SKU911141.html
That might be just what I need!
Anyone know if these are available in the USA?
Let me know if you want it shipped to the UK as my work has an office this. They will then ship it to me and I can give it to your sister or I can send it to you.
another option is 52/36 chainrings.
Keep in mind that this riser block, even if inverted will push the derailluer to the rear of the bike. As it moves rearward it gets farther from the chainrings.
I used a spacer to move a derailluer rearward just to get clearance for a 53t rotor ring once when my hanger was too low.
Scott
I was thinking that as well but I love to tinker and just buying rings takes that passion away.