I have a Campy road bike and my tri bike is Shimano. Is there any way to get a wheel that can be used for both? I am wanting to get a powertap to use this winter. It will be mainly on my Campy road bike until spring when races start and then I will transition to more on the tri bike. Is there any way to make this work?
Thanks in advance.
Scott
look on the Saris website, you can change the freehub
.
I think the easiest way would be to get a shimano freehub and use a campy conversion cassette like the American Classic. That way you only have to swap cassettes which would be much faster than swapping the freehub everytime you switched.
Positively Yes! I’ve already done it for IM Canada 2009. I had a race wheel with a Shimano Hub (got a good deal on it), bought a Shimano cassette and used spacers to convert it to Campy shifting. I later purchased a Tri bike with Shimano components. I just took the Shimano/Campy conversion spacers out and put in the original Shimano spacers that came with the cassette. Everything worked fine.
I’m not sure what it is like to swap a Powertap free hub, but I found that it was easier to swap the hubs on my Zipps than it was to swap cassettes. Just leave the cassette on the hub and w/ 2x 5mm alen wrenched you’re done in about 2min. No messing about the the individual cogs and spacers.
Thanks everyone for the fast responses! I’m happy there are multiple ways to make it work.
just posted your solution cassette on the classifieds!
In a pinch you could always just use a campy wheel with campy cassette on both, just switch the tri bike to friction shifting (assuming you have shimano bar end shifters). Perhaps not the ideal solution but it would function fine.
look on the Saris website, you can change the freehub
And…re-dish the wheel. It is NOT an easy process, and SARIS has no “steel washers”…yes, I have seen page 36
I have the newer hub, the SL+, built to a Mavic Open Pro rim. Laced up by Saris. For this new style hub (the ones with the larger 15mm axle), you need no tools to swap freehub bodies. Just give it a little tug and it pops off. Then pop in the Campy. Skewer tension holds it in place. And the big bonus is that I did not have to re-dish my wheel.
I have spare freehub bodies. The diagrams are a little confusing I will admit, but once you get it right, its fine. However I don’t enjoy doing it, and have 2 sets of powertap, 1 shimano, 1 campy.
What? Your QR holds it in place? Um…you know that is not right…right?
It pops in place. Ok, to be pedantic, the dropouts prevent it from coming apart. Have you seen one? Its one of those “a picture is worth a thousand words” sort of things. Except replace “picture” with “pop off the freehub yourself.”
I have to wonder if you are going to either rub a bearing face, or the inward bearing against the hub. I also really doubt that you are getting a “real” reading as it is not setup properly - you would get consistant readings however. I myself prefer to not void my warranties and do things right 
Stop f-ing with me and just go see one. 2009 SL+ hub!
I have seen the 2009…what happened to the lock nut that is on the drive side - outboard of the spacer? I would have to presume that is what is holding on the freehub body.
-Shimano and Capagnolo freehubs can be interchanged with no changes to spacers or other
components.
like they said for mine quick and easy, and no redish
-Shimano and Capagnolo freehubs can be interchanged with no changes to spacers or other
components.
like they said for mine quick and easy, and no redish
False, not with a PowerTap - please check the book with the instructions.
I have only done this conversion a few dozen times. At a minimum, you need to move washers and types of washers in the cassette body. I suppose the instructions from Saris are wrong though. You are correct if you are speaking of Zipp, Hed and any other wheel. I have had to re-dish my wheel, and a few friends wheels, this is after walking into Saris with the wheel and washers and asking them how to do it. Their comment - redish the wheel.
Try checking page 36 here…then repost your comment.
http://www.saris.com/...inid=2#CycleOpsPower
I read on a couple of sites where the American Classic conversion cassette is not compatible with Powertap hubs. Any ideas why? I see that Wheels mfg makes one for Saris. Has anyone used the American Classic on a Powertap successfully?
not trying to get into a pissing contest. for me it worked no redish required. page 35 says the same thing. maybe i just got lucky