So, I set up my new PowerTap on Monday and it worked just fine for my first ride. Since then I’ve ridden two more times and I haven’t gotten a power reading. My heart rate is displayed on the top line, where I should be getting watts, and my speed is all over the place in the middle line. I know there is some data going from the rear hub to the computer since the middle line of speed only shows up when the wheel is spinning, and I know the computer is working a bit since my cadence and heart rate are correct.
I took the wheel off and checked the batteries and they kind of popped out a bit when I took the off the battery cover. Is this normal? I’m assuming that when the cover is tightened down the batteries sit in their little compartments all of the way. I also cleaned the contacts on the computer and I have moved the sensor around a few times to make sure it’s close enough to the hub. When the wheel is spinning and I’m getting a speed reading the connection indicator light doesn’t flash, so I’m guessing that’s a bit of a problem.
Do you all have any other suggestions on what to do, or should I just call tech support?
The manual has a troubleshooting section - the different types of CPU’s have slightly different troubleshooting methods. Try using it first - it sounds like the CPU is in a weird mode where it is in bicycle computer mode and not normal powertap mode, among other things - it 's possible to customize the display and it sounds like you did this, too, somehow.
You may need a new battery. The one in the heart rate strap and the one that goes in the CPU are the same type so for a quick test you can take the one in the heartrate strap and put it in your CPU.
The batteries almost always pop off my wheels.
The receiver on the chainstay or seatstay should state exactly what the minimum distance/recommended distance from the hub should be.
Hmmmmm…assuming it really is a “new” PowerTap…the erratic readings are most likely due to the placement of the receiver. Although you said you checked this…do so again…ensure the receiver is 3-5" from the hub and that it is as parallel with the hub as the seatstay allows. Make sure the mount is as tight as possible.
Then check to make sure none of the contacts have pushed out of the handlebar mount, even the tiniest bit. That can cause intermittent or totally dropped reception or portions of reception…like wattage…
I wouldn’t be too sure that it is your HR reading out on the top line…more likely just erratic and/or spurious wattage pickups. In fact, I hightly doubt it. None of the CPUs are able to display HR there.
The batteries might be the culprit, but not likely given the symptoms of it working the first ride, then not on subsequent rides…unless they have gone dead and had just a bit of juice left in them. There’s no telling how long the unit sat on the shelf before being built and sent to you. In any case, its always a good idea to have a set or two of known new and good batteries available, including the CPU battery.
One other thought…since this is a brand new installation…who did the installation? Check for overtight zipties on the cabling. The cables don’t like super tight zipties…and I’ve seen more than one receiver ruined at installation by someone tightening zipties so tight that they broke the wiring inside…that can be a maddening problem to find, since it can also be intermittent…works one ride…doesn’t on the next…then works again…the only fix for that one is a new $65 receiver kit.
Just from experience, though…the receiver placing and orientation is almost always the culprit with this type of problem. Once you get it set, zip tie that thing as tight as you can get it…
I did the installation, so maybe I’m at fault with it. I’ll move the receiver around a bit and then really tighten it down, and I’ll also buy a new set of batteries for the hub. I used electrical tape to secure the cord, and I don’t think I made it too tight, but that could be the problem. All of the contacts on the computer mount looked good. I did check the troubleshooting section, but it just said to recheck the things I already did. Thanks for the suggestions and I’ll see if any of those things help when I get home this afternoon.
I should also say…don’t get too frustrated…you’ll figure it out…and my experience is that once you get it right…it will stay right…then its down to changing batteries…and getting the hub serviced (bearings every 1500 miles or so with the Pro…also…I sent mine back this year for an 8000 mile service to replace the inner cartridge bearings…they replaced the torque tube as well, as a matter of course…all routine stuff) Its a reliable system…it just takes a bit to get it set right.
When you service the hub bearings, is it just like working on any other hub? If it is, that shouldn’t be a problem since I can do that type of work on my own. I’d hate to have to take it to a shop or sent it back to Cycle Ops every couple of months.
Hopefully you’re right, and my problem is just a placement issue and once I get it right, it will be smooth sailing.
You can only service the drive side bearings. There are also a center and non-drive cartridge type bearing that you have to send the unit in to have serviced. Although you might even have tools to do that…you risk damaging the power unit…best to let them handle it. It only cost me the shipping TO them…they did the work and shipped it back without billing me. I think they have great customer service.
So, I set up my new PowerTap on Monday and it worked just fine for my first ride.
Do you all have any other suggestions on what to do, or should I just call tech support?
did you ever figure the problem, im having the same issues with mine…
thanks
jb
You’ve accidentally put it in ‘computer’ mode. There’s a shortcut to this (I think holding the left button down while the arrow is on cadence??) that some people (including me a long time ago) accidentally do. I’m not sure of the shortcut back, but check out the manual, or go back to the set-up menu, and you select ‘watts’ on menu screen 4.