HELP - does anyone know anything about powertap G3? It worked fine in last weekend HIM and this is my first ride since…It is not giving out power or cadence to my laptop and TrainerRoad. The devices tap on TrainerRoad says that it has an excellent connection so it is giving out data just not power or cadence. Speed is displayed and cadence flashes on every second or so, but no power. Same on my Garmin 310 - no power or cadence but speed is displayed. I took the battery out and put it back in to “reset” it but no change. Any help is appreciated.
have you plugged the hub in to power agent to update the firmware?
Have you tried a new battery?
I am also suffering from a G3 on the fritz. Wheelbuilder built it into a 303 FC clincher and I’ve been riding it since June paired with a Joule GPS. Rode about 3,000 miles on it so far. Zero issues…until yesterday. Out of nowhere I started getting erratic power and cadence readings. It would start at 0 and work up to 200-220 watts and then drop within a few seconds back to 0 - over and over again. I stopped, completely powered off the Joule GPS head unit and powered it back on. Problem went away. Today I rode it again, no issues. I called PowerTap Customer Service yesterday and the advice I got was to do the following:
- Do a Manual Zero and see if the Torque Value and Firmware version are showing. They are and I’m on Firmware 58 and my Torque Value is 513.
- If the problem persists, remove the hub cap, remove the battery for minimum 20 mins and then replace the battery. According to the guy I spoke to, leaving the battery out for 20 mins resets the hub. BTW - my battery is only about 100 hours old - tops.
We’ll see how this goes. I thought for sure I had escaped the dreaded G3 issues. But it seems everyone runs into it sooner or later.
100 hours might be as long as the g3 battery lasts 
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Yeah, it occurred to me that it could be a bad battery or just weak to begin with. But the specs state that you should get 200 hours out of a battery in the hub and that’s what I got last time so who knows. I highly doubt it is a battery issue as it is acting completely normal today during a 75 min cruise. That said, I have no idea what else it could be. Interference from the new iPhone 6? I really thought I had escaped from this issue. It happened with no warning. I can only imagine how this wrecks race day for some. With road racing I’d almost rather not have my PowerTap as it just freaks me out to look down and see “holy shit” watts displayed while chasing!
100 hours would be about right for me, that’s about 10 to 12 weeks.
Remember that every time you move the rear wheel you wake up the hub so you don’t have to be riding it to use the battery.
Happends sometimes for me, just change the battery or just wiggle it around a little.
I took out the battery, waited for 20 minutes, put new one in and I have updated the firmware last night. Still no better. Will be calling the vendor when they open.
It is probably the battery. I have had only terrible luck with their batteries. Every time I replace one, it seems the first replacement battery they give me only works for a few minutes to a few hours, then I need another one. Those batteries are very low quality
100 hours might be as long as the g3 battery lasts
I bought a used G3 wheel set this spring and had to replace the battery when I finally started using it. I installed a bulk, no name discount battery and it lasted about 30 hrs. I updated the firmware and installed a new Duracell battery in July and its still working after about 50 hrs. Yeah I know, I ride a ton.
To the OP, the low quality battery I had to replace still worked in my Garmin FR60 for about a month, so the quality of the battery can be a fator also in how many hours you get from the G3 hub. I think my G3 was doing the same thing when the battery needed to be changed, although it still tested at close to 3.0 volts.
I know I’m a bit late to the party and I was looking for something else - but to draw a parallel, the Garming HRM & Cadence sensor batteries should work decently to about 2.5v, on the other hand, if my remote door lock for my truck drops below 3.0v it’s pretty much done, an intermittent pain in the ass.