I was fortunate enough to get my hands on a free, lightly used (±2300K) wireless powertap. It is currently setup as a perfect training wheel, in a Mavic open pro 28H rim. I am planning to use the wheel for training and racing (2 HIM + 1 IM in 2015), so I would like to upgrade the aerodynamics.
I have outlined the options I found so far below. Am I missing something? What would you do? Do you think it’s worth spending money upgrading the current set up? Or am I better off by selling the powertap and buy a crank based power meter?
**Disc Cover **
Unfortunately the Mavic open pro rim does not work with disc covers, its too low. So to use a disc cover I’d have to replace the open pro with a slightly higher aluminum rim that will allow me to install the disc cover and secure it with tape on the rim. This seems to be the cheapest, and heaviest option.
± $250 for the new rim, spoken and labor
± $200 to $300 for the disc cover
Carbon Rim
2. Find a carbon wheel set / rim with 28H, and build the powertap into this. I did some research, but it turns out to be quite hard to find 28H carbon rims (aside from zipp, which is pricey). The majority are 24 x 20.
± $1000 to $1500 wheel / rim set
± $100 to $200 for spokes and labor
**New Power Meter **
3. Sell the power tap + wheel and purchase a crank based power meter. This would enable to grab a set of carbon wheels from a distributor I know for $300. (Unfortunately these don’t come in a 28H back rim)
± $350 to $450 Revenue from selling wheel
± $1000 to $2000 Cost of a new power meter
$300 Carbon wheels
November bikes has their Rail52 in a 28H drilling. That is a quality option. Also, any of the big carbon wheel resellers from china can get 28h drillings on their rims.
Since it is your money and you can get a killer deal on a set of carbon wheels. Go with the new power meter. Power 2 max or quarq.
I’ve run a Mavic Open Pro with PowerTap for years, even taping it on. Works fine. A killer combination for racing AND training. Just make sure to keep a set of newish tires for race day only.
From what I gathered on this forum, it appeared plastic fasters of the wheelbuilder cover brake easily and aren’t 100% reliable. So i figured taping them would be essential.
Logella, have you ever ran into issues with just using the fasters without tape?
Nickwhite, do you currently have your wheel cover installed and taped on your open pro? If so, could take a picture and send / post it? I am very curious to see how you got the tape on there without it obstructing the brake area?
The plastic fasteners are pretty solid, and I’ve never had one break in probably 30 races. I only put the wheelcover on for races. I actually recently upgraded to a Powertap branded wheel, which is pretty much the same thing as an Open Pro; I even kept the same cover. There was a few mm of free space between the edge of the wheelcover and the brake track. I rarely ever taped it though, as it is a huge hassle with little gain.
From what I gathered on this forum, it appeared plastic fasters of the wheelbuilder cover brake easily and aren’t 100% reliable. So i figured taping them would be essential.
Logella, have you ever ran into issues with just using the fasters without tape?
Nickwhite, do you currently have your wheel cover installed and taped on your open pro? If so, could take a picture and send / post it? I am very curious to see how you got the tape on there without it obstructing the brake area?
I don’t use Mavics, but I do use the aerojackets and the plastic fasteners definitely stay on. They are not designed to pop off easily, even with really hard rattles.
That said, it gets really annoying during a HIM or longer to hear the loud rattle of the disc cover every time you hit a bump or pebble. The taping completely eliminates this rattle. But aside from that rattle, it’ll stay on no problem with the plastic fasteners.
From what I gathered on this forum, it appeared plastic fasters of the wheelbuilder cover brake easily and aren’t 100% reliable. So i figured taping them would be essential.
Logella, have you ever ran into issues with just using the fasters without tape?
I’ve been running mine with the fasteners only since 2011 without a single issue. No rattles, no popped fasteners, no nothing. It’s been through 4 Ironmans, probably 10 or so halfs, a handful of Oly’s and countless sprints. I taped it once for a sprint to see what it was all about and it was more of a hassle and I haven’t done it again.
Keep you PT you got for free. Buy the set of race wheels for $300. Buy a Powertap hub and have Powertap hub put into race wheels. Even if you spend $800 on the hub (which you will not if you shop), +$300 for the wheels + $100 for installation you are still spending less than buying a crank based powermeter.
Oh by the way if the crankbased meter fails you have to send the setup back to the manufacture to calibrate. Which means either A) no cranks for a couple of weeks B) no power for a couple of weeks or both.
With 2 powertaps, in the similar situation. Send Wheel A) in to be fixed and ride on wheel B. No down time. Then if you want to ride a disc (get the wheelcover for the race wheels.)
I’ve just ordered a Aerojacket Disc Cover from wheelbuilder.com to give it a try. If I am happy with how it sits on the wheel, and if I can secure it enough to make sure it doesn’t rattle (that will turn me nuts), it is be cheapest & easiest way to achieve what I was looking for!