I’m kind of new to the PM chat, but the thing that immediately enter my mind is …damn, I have to have a separate training wheel AND race wheel hub??? Good grief this could get expensive.
Has anyone out there developed a system that doesn’t require you to have a hub measuring it? I would consider it, but in my mind it seems if you are going to use a PM you should use it all the time…and I’m not going to train on race wheels or race on training wheels…
I’m kind of new to the PM chat, but the thing that immediately enter my mind is …damn, I have to have a separate training wheel AND race wheel hub??? Good grief this could get expensive.
Has anyone out there developed a system that doesn’t require you to have a hub measuring it? I would consider it, but in my mind it seems if you are going to use a PM you should use it all the time…and I’m not going to train on race wheels or race on training wheels…
Two things:
First, you should probably find a copy of THIS before you think about using/buying a PM:
http://www.amazon.com/Training-Racing-Power-Meter-Hunter/dp/1931382794/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1252765919&sr=8-1
Chapter 2 should probably answer your question. Also, a brief look here should get you up to speed on some of your options (there are more out there since this was written, i.e. Quarq Cinqo, and some that are “defunct”, i.e. Ergomo):
http://midweekclub.ca/powerFAQ.htm
Secondly, as to your assertion that you would need a separate training wheel and a race wheel if you use a PowerTap hubbed wheel…well, if you select your rim properly, and possibly invest in a wheelcover, then you can easily use just one wheel for both.
Could always build up three PT wheels for the price of a SRM too 
.
Secondly, as to your assertion that you would need a separate training wheel and a race wheel if you use a PowerTap hubbed wheel…well, if you select your rim properly, and possibly invest in a wheelcover, then you can easily use just one wheel for both.
Hey, Chip. I’m looking at having a PowerTap wheel built for both racing (with a wheelcover) & training. I weight 195lb, and the roads I train on are not terrible, but not pristine, either. Here’s the wheel I’m considering…
Hub: PowerTap Pro+ (Available in 20, 24, 28 or 32 hole.)
Rim: Kinlin XR-300 clincher
Spokes: DT Competion (Was considering Sapim CX-Ray. But, that would add ~$50 to the price, if I go 32 hole, for questionable gain.)
Nipples: Brass (For corrosion resistance.)
Lacing: No idea.
What are your thoughts on the components I’ve chosen? How many spokes and what lacing would you recommend? Any thoughts on the spoke models or the necessity of brass nipples?
Thanks.
Steve
I presently have a Saris PT. It was built in a training wheel. But I hate this solution as I can’t use it with any of my other wheels.
I now am getting a CinQo from Quarq. Really, really excited about this solution. Plus they have been fantastic to work with. This seems to me to be a much better solution. MSRP for the two solution are pretty equal. If you minus the head unit which I had already.
IMHO it is a no brainer.
Why not just do 32s 3x? I prefer Sapim spokes, brass on the drive side, alloy on the non-drive side. I had my PT on a CXP33 but if I had to do it again I would put it on an OpenPro double eyelet rim. I gave that weel away anyways cause I all I ever did was watch the numbers change on the display.
Why are you looking at the Kinlin as opposed to a DT or Mavic rim? I dont know anything about Kinlin, but for the same price point at a CXP33 or DT RR 1.2 you could get a rim that is tried and true and proven.
Polar makes a power meter. I love it–have had great success with it. Not many on this forum like it so be prepared to hear it get slammed. Here’s the key–installation by someone who really knows the device. If it is installed incorrectly --it pretty much will never work right and you will rip your hair out. If it is installed correctly it works beautifully and consistently. Mine has been within 2-3 watts of a correctly calibrated computrainer FYI. It’s worked for every race so far (knock on wood) and has really helped with pacing.
It measures chain tension so it doesn’t matter what wheels you are using. Also I have the first generation wired version --bought new.
Why not just do 32s 3x? I prefer Sapim spokes, brass on the drive side, alloy on the non-drive side. I had my PT on a CXP33 but if I had to do it again I would put it on an OpenPro double eyelet rim. I gave that weel away anyways cause I all I ever did was watch the numbers change on the display.
Why are you looking at the Kinlin as opposed to a DT or Mavic rim? I dont know anything about Kinlin, but for the same price point at a CXP33 or DT RR 1.2 you could get a rim that is tried and true and proven.
I know pretty much nothing about wheel building. The build I posted was actually the recommendation of wheelbuilder.com for my use. Although, they did not mention anything specific about lacing.
They recommended the Kinlin XR-300 vs the DT RR1.2 (They don’t carry Mavic.) because they said the DT weighed a fair amount more, and would be “overkill” for my needs. (Keep in mind, I do plan to race on this wheel - sometimes w/o a cover for hilly courses.)
I prefer a slightly deeper rim (30mm) for a few reasons. First, it “should” be slightly more aerodynamic. Probably negligible. But, still… Second, my front wheel (Easton Vista) is 30mm. So, it’ll match. And, finally, it makes installing/taping the cover easier.
For the record… I’ve used my Vista rear wheel for 2+ years now with no issues. It hasn’t even needed to be trued. So, I must not be too hard on wheels.?. It’s 24-spoke, 2x on the drive side. So, this new wheel should be even more durable.
What’s the purpose of using alloy nipples on the non-drive side? We’re only talking about ~8g in weight savings, right?
Steve
Secondly, as to your assertion that you would need a separate training wheel and a race wheel if you use a PowerTap hubbed wheel…well, if you select your rim properly, and possibly invest in a wheelcover, then you can easily use just one wheel for both.
Hey, Chip. I’m looking at having a PowerTap wheel built for both racing (with a wheelcover) & training. I weight 195lb, and the roads I train on are not terrible, but not pristine, either. Here’s the wheel I’m considering…
Hub: PowerTap Pro+ (Available in 20, 24, 28 or 32 hole.)
Rim: Kinlin XR-300 clincher
Spokes: DT Competion (Was considering Sapim CX-Ray. But, that would add ~$50 to the price, if I go 32 hole, for questionable gain.)
Nipples: Brass (For corrosion resistance.)
Lacing: No idea.
What are your thoughts on the components I’ve chosen? How many spokes and what lacing would you recommend? Any thoughts on the spoke models or the necessity of brass nipples?
Thanks.
Steve
I’m not Chip, but you did reply to my post, so I’ll put my 2 cents in anyway 
I like that build above. The Kinlin rim is a great choice, especially if you’re going to be using a cover for races. About the only thing I’d change is using Sapim Race spokes instead of the DT Comps (they’re the same diameters)…but that’s only because I’ve had bad luck in the past with wheelbuilds using the DTs, and none with Sapims…although, admittedly, the “sample size” is fairly low since these were just personal builds.
Yeah…I’d stick with brass nips all around too…
Your $0.02 is always appreciated, Tom.
That’s 2 for 2 votes for the switch to Sapim spokes, too. Interesting…
What are your thoughts on number of spokes?
I weight just under 200lb and don’t ride on great roads. But… I’ve been using stock Easton Vistas for 2+ years without even a trueing. And, those are 24-spoke, 2x on the drive side. So, I must not be terribly hard on wheels.
Since I’m in trouble with the boss anyway, I’ve also been looking at building with a Flash Point 80 rim and CX-Ray spokes. But, those only come in 20 and 24-hole options. So, I’m hesitant, since these will see quite a bit of training time.
Steve
Im assuming we ride on similar roads. I had bigshark build my powertap. First I demod it there for 50 bucks. Then I bought a wired hub. I had them build me a velocity deep V 32h wheel. Im a memeber of stl triclub so I have a nice discount there. It was done within 4 day(surprised me). I didnt get bladed spokes, Im not sold on them yet. I will get a nice 60mm for the front and a wheel cover, so I will be all set.
The 32h is great, Im even using it on the shit road over in the middle east on my cx bike.