I have posted a WTB in the classified section for a Polar Power System, but after re-reading all of the reviews, I am not sure that it’s worth the hassle.
Is there anyone using it and happy with its performance? Should I wait and just get a Powertap. Note that there is some value to me of having power, hr, speed, cadence etc. downloaded to the polar software and I am not sure that I could do so with a powertap.
I’ve used a Polar Power meter for the past 8 months or so. I had some problems initially but that was related to a defective power unit and Polar replaced it at no cost and no hassle. The power readings seemed comparable to what I was generating on a Computrainer and are repeatable over time. The software is great and if you upgrade to Cycling Peaks you can transfer Polar files easily. My lbs (if you are from NC, I used Clean Machine in Carrboro) and they did a great job installing it. The key is to get the unit close to the chain to obtain readings and they got it right the first time. Can’t beat the price compared to other power systems and can use any wheel you like. I swap out with a disc and the Polar makes it easy.
Thanks Attybiker. This is the kind of information for which I am looking. It is good to hear that you like your Polar Power System and I am checking out the Cycling Peaks software.
Okay, so I have one person happy with this system. Anyone else care to comment?
I used the Polar Power meter briefly. I was not confident on the readings after it told me that I used less than 100 watts to go up a hill and 700 watts to go down it.
Konababy: Thanks. Did you try to fix the issue or did you just move on? I have read that it is a delicate installation process. Your description would make the power feature useless.
I have a Power Tap on my racing bike which I am very happy with. The Polar unit was on my commuter bike. Strange thing was that when my Polar watch was mounted on the handlebar canopy that the heart rate didn’t show up on the display (this may have been related to a dying battery in the transmitter) and using the wattage feature caused me to go through the memory on the watch very fast. So when I received the really bad readings as mentioned above combined with the fact that the reading in general seemed to tell me significantly higher watts than the powertap (ie 250 average watts for moderate efforts), I just lost confidence in it.
I generally don’t ride the commuter bike as much as the racing bike. The polar power unit is still on the frame, I just don’t put the watch receiver on the handlebar canopy anymore. I figure why bother.
I have one and love it. I know it isn’t as accurate as let’s say an SRM. But, like those electro-fat measuring weighing scales, you can determine a baseline and compare new data with old data. I believe that that is more important anyway. I think knowing how many watts you can put out now as compared to last year or last month is the proper way to interpret power meter data. Versus knowing how many watts you can put out to the nearest 0.1 accuracy. Or saying “Oh, I put out XXX watts” and then leaving it at that. Accuracy is overrated when training with a power meter. Comparing data is the way to go. Even if it is imprecise as to what exactly 1 watt is. Consistant power measuring is the key. I use one at a monthly time trial I go to. It helps me visualize if I am gaining fitness or losing it regardless of weather conditions (i.e, wind, temp, humidity, etc which are things that will affect your finish time in race). I can go back and compare each month to see what worked in training and what didn’t.
I understand the accuracy versus consistency argument and think that the idea of consistent readings makes sense. Gasmonkey - are your readings on the polar power system relatively consistent (i.e., same ride, the following week having similar power numbers)?
Yes, my readings are consistent. Once i got the sensor installed, I never touch it, unless I clean the exterior. I have only had one time that I had a very large power spike (500 watt average). I think it had to do with some external electrical interference. What I did to fix it was unlug the sensor from the handle bar mount and plug it back in.
Did you ever get the polar power meter and are you happy with it? I am also thinking about getting one, since I already have a 720 HRM and am happy with it. The SRM and Ergometro are out of my budget range. Let me know
I have the system too. It has worked great for me. Before I bought the power sensor I had wireless polar speed and cadence sensors. I ride in the Annapolis MD area and I had some problems with powerline interference when using the wireless sensors. The power sensor has them wired which eliminated the problem.
It is important to get the distance between the power sensor and the chain correct. Once I got that figured out, I was good to go. I have yet to use it in a tri though. I race olympics and it takes about 10 seconds to attach and remove the watch from the connection mount. With the wireless sensors I could keep it on my wrist, but the power system needs to have the watch connected too it.