*edited the the angle lines per jyeager’s instructions. I won’t do triathlons on this bike.
I’m 71 inches bike is 56cm. Saddle is a Selle SMP Composit. The stem is 100mm and is low as possible. I do not seem to be low enough on the hoods and when I am in the drops my back is no where near flat. I have very long arms, perhaps I need a longer stem and or negative? Per the “plumb line” drawn in the first photo does it seem I am a little too back on the saddle?
Any input is appreciated, thank you.
How far is your saddlenose behind the BB?
This is a road bike. You don’t need a flat back.
And the way you measured your hip angle is wrong. You measure your hip angle when the leg is fully extended. So take photo #1 and draw a straight line from your pedal spindle to the greater trocanter and then another line from the trocanter to AC joint at the top of the shoulder. When on the hoods you are definitely over 90 degrees…but that’s not bad either, especially on a road bike…and it is probably best to measure these angles and to position yourself correctly when on the drops (assuming that’s how you’d race).
If you are determined to use your road bike for triathlon, add some aero bars and only concern yourself with your position as it relates to being on the elbow pads.
hey, at least you’re not wearing parachute-loose clothes, lots of people asking for fit advice on ST seem to do that. but the problem with that is that an observer can see absolutely nothing other than something that looks like a sack of potatoes plopped on a bike. so hat’s off to you for wearing some form-fitting clothes (seriously). OK, rant over, on to the fit itself:
while the other poster is correct about the angle measurements (the way you measured the angles, they don’t mean too much), it’s still totally reasonable for you to want to be a little lower while riding on the hoods. so, assuming you do desire a flatter back and have very long arms, you bet, you can absolutely use a longer stem to adjust your fit. just try to look for one that is a “-17 deg” version (these end up being about level on most road and tri bikes) in a 110, 120, or even 130 mm version. then, it is very hard to tell from the pics, but what kind of seatpost do you have? if you have a “zero setback” design (looks like this), or a low setback design, you need to go to seatpost with a greater rear setback (looks like this). also, make sure that your seat is not slid all the way forward on the rails. if it is, slide it back a bit.
i would try those things first. if that doesn’t work, then you may need a frame with a shorter headtube (but still with a long top tube). but my guess is that you can get this frame to work fine.
This information doesn’t really pertain to me, but I read your detailed info and thought to myself “wow, that guy really wants to help”. I just wanted to bump for a very nice, productive add for someone looking to get faster. That’s all, just giving props (and a bump)
Thank you for the input Greg!
This is the seat post( which I don’t recommend, it tilts up or down a lot, the entire clamp rotates within the housing, maybe I need grease?)
Does the first “plumb line” indicate that I am too far back on the saddle?
i would call that (problematic) seatpost a low-setback post.
if it were me, i’d first slide my seat back on the rails somewhat (but be sure to re-adjust your seat height to keep the seat height to the BB constant) and try some longer -17 deg stems (going from 100mm to 120 or 130mm will be a big change, you’ll feel it). then, if you want to get flatter and experiment more, you could also try a higher setback seatpost.
the plumb line from your knee to the pedal spindle in terms of fore-aft seat adjustment (called ‘KOPS’–here is short explanation about the myth) is basically meaningless, it is just a fit “tradition” that is not based on any science or logic. however, sliding your seat fore-aft or modifying that position with a higher setback seatpost will affect your hip angle which, if very acute, will affect your ability to generate high power at very low torso angles (i.e., at acute hip angles).
edit: i wouldn’t put any grease in the post head, use carbon paste or, better yet, ask the shop look at it and tell you how to set it up and adjust it correctly.
it is just a fit “tradition” that is not based on any science or logic.
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Couldn’t agree more.
Okay I see what you mean, the more I slide my saddle back the lower I would have to bring the post. You mentioned the plumb line test being archaic, what about using whether or not your handlebar obscures your view of the front skewer reference? the way I’m seated now I can see my skewer behind the handlebar which made me think I was already too far back on the saddle. Does this mean that if I do bring the saddle back more and lower the height that perhaps my new lower longer back positioning would bring me closer to obstructing the view of the skewer.
what about using whether or not your handlebar obscures your view of the front skewer reference? the way I’m seated now I can see my skewer behind the handlebar which made me think I was already too far back on the saddle. Does this mean that if I do bring the saddle back more and lower the height that perhaps my new lower longer back positioning would bring me closer to obstructing the view of the skewer.
it looks like you are in premed. well, medicine is supposed to be science and evolution-based, but if you study history even a little, the truly insane crock that ‘modern medicine’ has pushed on people over the years will make your eyes pop out of your head. well, think of cycling as basically the same: easily 75 to 90 % to what you hear or read about cycling fit is either anecdotally-based or simply made-up crock. the “front hub obstructed by the bars” story is one of these totally arbitrary fairy tales, as there are about a thousand (well, too many to list) bike design and fit variables that would affect that relationship and probably none of them affect your comfort or power. so you can totally disregard that one.
i notice you’re focused on saddle fore-aft position and maybe that’s because it’s something you can change without buying stuff, and i’m totally for that. that said, while your photos are tiny, it’s likely that you’ll need a longer stem. a 100mm stem for a long-torsoed and/or long-armed full-size male on a road bike is pretty small. you shouldn’t hesitate to go longer, some bigger pro road riders use stems as long as 140mm. if money is an issue, performance bike shop sells a decent and reasonably-priced stem called ‘forte pro’ (made by kalloy of taiwan, a fine stem maker). maybe give that one a try. or, there’s always ebay.
edit: you may also want to check your seat height, very hard to tell from your pics, but i’d wager that your seat is low. search " 96% of greater trochanteric height " on this forum and on the net and you may learn why and how to re-set your seat height.
“Half of what we taught you is wrong. Unfortunately, we do not know which half.”
–Dean Sidney Burwell to a Harvard Medical School graduating class.
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Set your saddle by your knee to pedal(It looks like you already have done this). Adjust your upper body with the stem. I think you need a longer stem which will stretch you out, roll your hips forward and lower and flatten your body. How much longer you will have to play with but I would guess on 2cm