and there isn’t really a better way with being able to TURN the bars!!!
Try routing the rear brake cable over the top of the bar and the stem and then down to the left side of the toptube, like I did here…
Tom. Dude! That is one seriously crazy set up there my friend. Cool though…very cool.
Tom. Dude! That is one seriously crazy set up there my friend. Cool though…very cool.
What? That old thing?? 
Tom,
Looks like you sorted out the hanger on the front brake. Looks really good. A few questions about the set up.
Shifters - Would it be better to have them mounted the other way so that the shifters are not sticking up so far.
Brake levers - could you hide them a bit more behind the bend of the bar if you moved them back. Also how do you actually brake with them in that position. I would think with your thumbs. Have you thought about going with the HED third brake left and right at the shifters. If you do not move while in the aero position, I would think that they would be touching your hands and not out in the wind too much.
Front brake - How is the power with that front brake.
Elbow pad mounting - Did you just zip tie them to the bars. Also how do you keep them level while tied down.
The only thing that I see sticking out at this point is the rear derailleur cable which I have never understood why they have to run it this way.
Even worse than killing the FA of that beautiful bike. Do I see a heinous fashion crime - SRAM shifters on a Campy 11 gruppo?
That front brake cable is just upsetting.
Shifters - Would it be better to have them mounted the other way so that the shifters are not sticking up so far.
I actually prefer them that way…it allows me to have my hands raised up a little further while riding for a given position of the “pivot” of the shifter. However, since that pic was taken I’ve tilted the bars up slightly from horizontal to get it more like my position from last year, and for various reasons (see below) I’m contemplating turning the shifters around.
Brake levers - could you hide them a bit more behind the bend of the bar if you moved them back. Also how do you actually brake with them in that position. I would think with your thumbs.
Well…there’s a “delicate balance” there between having room in front of the pads to grab the bars and also being able to actuate the brake levers with my thumbs. Actually, for more “technical” courses, AFM gave me the idea of just rotating the levers downward to a more conventional position to actuate them with my fingers. It will be slightly higher drag, but I’ll give that up for more assured braking, depending on the course. When I retape the bars, I’m going to make sure I can easily do that. Also, I’m going to be making a “mount” for a Garmin 705 that will basically be a “plate” spanning between the bars just behind where the upturn is in the bars…and a lot of stuff that would normally “see” the wind will be blocked by that “mount”
Have you thought about going with the HED third brake left and right at the shifters. If you do not move while in the aero position, I would think that they would be touching your hands and not out in the wind too much.
Yes…I’ve thought about putting one on the right shifter boss for actuating the rear brake. It would work great with the “inline” nature of the CX levers already on there. However, with a list price of ~$90 for just one of them, I’m still thinking about that =:-0
My only reason for contemplating that is the ability to scrub off some speed in certain situations would help keep me from having to get out of the aero position in the first place. Of course, using one of the HED brake levers would work better if my shifters were mounted “normally”. The way I have them now, and with the way the Hed lever mounts, it would be between my hand and the extension. I don’t think that would work very well. It would be better to have the lever placed in between the extensions.
Front brake - How is the power with that front brake.
Surprisingly good. Swapping the pads to Koolstop Salmons (one argument in my mind for running aluminum rimmed wheels is the ability to use those pads) helps a ton. Also, the setup of the straddle cable is a bit “finicky” to getting it just right. Then again, I don’t demand a whole lot from the front brake on a TT rig
Elbow pad mounting - Did you just zip tie them to the bars. Also how do you keep them level while tied down.
I used some “cushioned loop clamps” I ordered from McMaster-Carr.
The only thing that I see sticking out at this point is the rear derailleur cable which I have never understood why they have to run it this way.
Well…that and the rear brake as well
I’m working on something for both… 
Tom,
Would you mind when you have some time to take a picture of the mounting for the armrests. Right now I have my HED aerobars set up on my road bike with straight extensions but I really want to mount some Easton carbon armrests directly to the top of the bars. I have tried zip ties with alright success but they do slide forwards that sort of sucks. I do not want to drill them out to match the bolt spacing on the HED mounts. The HED mounts are 25mm spacing and the Easton has a spacing of 20mm so if I can just mount them direct that would be a lot better. I have a few ideas with the help of some black delrin that I have from work but I would like to have a more solid solution.
The HED aerobars with the 3t straight extensions are only 236g at this time and if I can get the whole set up to under 200g that would be really nice. Yes I want the set up to be both aero and light.
Tom,
Would you mind when you have some time to take a picture of the mounting for the armrests. Right now I have my HED aerobars set up on my road bike with straight extensions but I really want to mount some Easton carbon armrests directly to the top of the bars. I have tried zip ties with alright success but they do slide forwards that sort of sucks. I do not want to drill them out to match the bolt spacing on the HED mounts. The HED mounts are 25mm spacing and the Easton has a spacing of 20mm so if I can just mount them direct that would be a lot better. I have a few ideas with the help of some black delrin that I have from work but I would like to have a more solid solution.
The HED aerobars with the 3t straight extensions are only 236g at this time and if I can get the whole set up to under 200g that would be really nice. Yes I want the set up to be both aero and light.
Perhaps later I can take a pic, but it’s nothing complex…all I did was use some of the “Sure-Grip Cushioned Loop Clamps” shown here:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#loop-clamps/=125tkx
IIRC, I used the stainless steel loops with the silicone “cushions”, along with some appropriate screws and locknuts. The “flat” portion of the loop is at the top edge of the bar and the Profile F-22 elbow cups rest right on that.
sure looks like a lot of trouble.
i got a pair of these and they work great:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CEE-GEES-TRANSFORMERS-ARM-REST-PLATE-SETS_W0QQitemZ190029302561QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item190029302561&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
sure looks like a lot of trouble.
i got a pair of these and they work great:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/…;_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
Hmmm…no adjustability angle-wise (in and out)…but just might be a good call
Thanks!
Oh no you d’int, Tom. I can’t believe all that spare brake cable I see out the bottom of the rear caliper. And my goodness…you could run your rear derailleur cable TWICE with all that extra loop you have in the back.
Cheap aero, my ass!
On the other hand…is that an Alps or a Jet with a VF record on the front?
Oh no you d’int, Tom. I can’t believe all that spare brake cable I see out the bottom of the rear caliper. And my goodness…you could run your rear derailleur cable TWICE with all that extra loop you have in the back.
Cheap aero, my ass!
On the other hand…is that an Alps or a Jet with a VF record on the front?
Well…I didn’t repeat the caveat from when I originally posted this pic on wattagetraining.com that this is obviously prior to “finishing the build”…hence, the untrimmed brake cable and no bar tape.
I just can’t believe nobody has picked up on the true FA reduction shown in that pic…How did I hide the cranks so well???
That’s a Jet 90 (narrow) front with a VF Record shown in the pic…a Bonty AeroWing TT 19C lives on there now
The front brake looks like a boat anchor…Campy Delta?
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The front brake looks like a boat anchor…Campy Delta?
you know not of what you speak…
g
sure looks like a lot of trouble.
i got a pair of these and they work great:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/…;_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
BTW, after you posted this, I ordered up a pair of those CeeGees elbow cups, along with a set of the pads they had on closeout. They came yesterday and so I mounted them up.
Due to the short “straight-section” of the 100K bars, they mount fairly close to the stem and the pads don’t exactly point at appropriate extension ends (they kind of point at the opposite one), but there seems to be enough width to the pads that using them isn’t an issue. They force my elbows together a bit more than I’d like, but it’s not “unworkable”. They’re definitely more solid than what I had on there before, and the CeeGees pads are REALLY comfortable.
I tried them out on my lunchtime ride today and didn’t have any issues…so far so good…hopefully in this coming weekend I’ll be able to finally field test this 100K bar setup (weather and motivation permitting).
So…I just wanted to say: THANKS! 
are you sure you haven’t got the right one on the left and vice versa?
are you sure you haven’t got the right one on the left and vice versa?
Yup. If they were swapped L to R, they would point “out”, not inwards towards the opposite extension.
Like I said, the issue is that the straight portion of the bar is fairly short, and if it goes out on the curve even just a little, then that just rotates them inward even further…I’ll see if I can take a pic later and post it.
No matter, though…they’re “workable”, and more importantly, I consider them an improvement over what was on there previously (plus, I can put my other bar setup back together for a “quick swap” if I need to).
So what bars did you go with?