Orbea Ordu rear wheel well plate

I am working on internally routing Di2 and i have found it extremely difficult to get the plate off the wheel well where the battery can slip in. Any thoughts on how to do this? I have contacted 2 bike shops, one isn’t sure what to do, the other says “it definitely is meant to come off”. And tried to contact Orbea but they don’t get back because their customer service is shit. Well, there must be some special tool because I will scratch the shit out of the frame if I try to pry it off. I can find no other way to get the battery into the frame. If the battery were .5mm less in diameter I would be able to get it down the seat tube. Nope!

There is a small bolt (3mm?) that holds the battery mount, remove it and it will slide out

Number 14

https://www.orbea.com/...APER_ORDU_OMP_EN.pdf
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57C3C460-DE49-4FB5-990F-479F0CE88895.jpeg

There is a small bolt (3mm?) that holds the battery mount, remove it and it will slide out

Number 14

https://www.orbea.com/...APER_ORDU_OMP_EN.pdf

^^^this is it.

I had the same issue - lots of grime holding that plate in after removing the screws. I ended up taking a small allen wrench, inserting it into one of the screw holes and sort of leveraging it out slowly. No scratches whatsoever.

I just started on a project to convert my Ordu from mechanical to Di2 and was having the exact same problem - glad to know it wasn’t just me. Small allen sounds like a good way to avoid scratches - thanks. Not sure it is relevant since I haven’t removed mine yet, but I found the diagram a bit confusing as I initially missed the fact there are three bolts to remove - the two in the wheel well and one up by the chainrings.

Ah! And my stupidity prevails again. Thank you. That makes so much more sense. I should have looked at the blue papers on my computer, rather than my phone. Thank you again!

Mattyboy,

I am in need of replacing the DI 2 battery in my Ordu OMP, and i am having a nightmare-ish time trying to get the battery to bulge. Wondering how you did it?

I tried with an allen key in the front bolt area, but there’s not enough space to provide leverage. With the back screws, if I use a small allen key, I seem to always somehow push the battery holder back in as soon as I get it 1mm or so loose.

ah geez it’s been awhile…you’re sure you got the front screw off first? If I remember right, I used the section where there are two holes and stuck the allen in and ‘encouraged’ it. It was finicky since there was some dirt and whatnot…maybe I stuck in the short end of the allen wrench and sort of pulled on it at some point? maybe it would help to put the bike on a stand facing upward so you can use gravity in your favor? Wish I could help more!

I’m not sure when I cursed more - trying to get this thing off, or routing the di2 cables and battery to my Tririg bottom bracket…

I definitely have the front screw off. Probably poked / pried it enough with small allen keys, picks. Will give it one more shot. Thanks!

At this point, tempted to just drill through the plastic holder (and probably the battery, which… would be questionable), so I can get a plier at some parts of the battery holder.

Maybe I just needed a bit of encouragement to think. I got it off. If anyone need any tips for future reference.

Mine was not stuck because of grime. the battery most likely got tangled with the DI2 wires, and wedged the DI2 wires between the battery and frame, causing the battery to appear stuck.

I used the super long hex wrench I had to install the rear draft box, opened the bottom cable routing cover, and used that wrench to move up the downtube and push back on the battery.