Official Canyon Speedmax CF Owners Thread

@bsdcat :
Hi,

If you are going to invest in a new Di2 system and finance allowing, I would suggest to get new aerobars similar to the setup from Gringoploco (post #279) with the round type Shimano junction box (ES EWRS910) instead of the original Di2 junction box (SM-EW90 B).
This is will allow you to :

  • have a clean and easy access to Shimano charging port
  • avoids the messy Canyon setup inside the bento or save you going the more convoluted route of modifying your stem to stuff the Shimano box inside it as I did with the original aerobars (post #277)

Also, as a personal choice, I would get the Di2 horns TT levers with front and rear derailleur controls instead of the single control levers that come standard when you buy the di2 version of CF8. IMO, useful to have control of the front derailleur on the horns, especially if you are doing TT with some hilly sections and use semi synchronous shifting. This avoids the surprise that you get with Di2 full synchronous shifting when having both front and back deraileur shifting simultaneously in the middle of a hard effort/climb.

Cordially,
FG

SHIMANO.jpg

Hi FG,

Thanks for the suggestions. Re: the EW-RS-910, from what I understand at a minimum I’d need to swap out the PD Subsonic brackets with PD Sonic brackets, add a Y cable, and still find room for an SM-JC41 junction (in the bento?). I don’t tend to use the bento much as it is, so I’m not sure the extra expense is worth it for infrequent charging. On the flip side I’m still thinking about swapping out the whole handlebar for the Aeria Ultimate; seems like I could make the switch then if the junction box in the bento is annoying. Doing it now might mean paying extra for Sonic brackets I end up not wanting; waiting might mean paying extra for an SM-EW90B I end up not wanting.

Re: brake shifters, I ordered the single button version because I’m pretty interested in full synchro shift. The hills around here (Central Texas, and I mostly race around here too) I absolutely expect to get in the little ring, and in fact my lowest gear, so being able to do that with just one button appeals. Maybe I’ll find that less reliable than I expect (this will be my first experience with Di2), but most of what I’ve read has been pretty positive about full synchro.

Pretty genius charging port. I’m surprised you had any room left in the stem. I barely had enough room for the junction box.

I’m looking at this tool box as well. I have no plans of running a downtube bottle and am wondering if that has an impact on the aero of that setup. It’s either this or a behind the seat toolbox.
https://www.speedmetrics.com.br/...yon-speedmax-cf-slx/

Or would I be better off just using an aero bottle as my toolbox?

Long time lurker, decided to post to make me feel better about my tale of woe!

After two years of tinkering and replacing bits, I finally got my Speedmax exactly how I want it for racing time trials.

Last step was to tidy up the front mech hanger and di2 cable (running a 1x pyramid chain ring) and get the bb replaced because the original was making some noise. I thought I’d treat myself to an upgrade so arranged for LBS to fit a CBear BB.

Big mistake! Despite being the correct size, the CBear wouldn’t fit properly and they had to (destructively) remove it part way through the install. They claim the BB shell is undersized ( by a full 1 mm) and the aluminium bb cups didn’t have enough “give” to match it. Replaced with a new plastic shimano bb.

All seemed fine, despite a little added stress, until yesterday morning I was putting race wheels on for a pre-season shakedown ride and I felt a crack on the underside of the BB.

It’s probably fine. But first race of the season is on Saturday, and I’m now waiting for Canyon’s feedback. I’ve had a look online and have found people with similar BB installation related cracks on other Canyon models. I really could do without the stress of working out who is liable here. Is it me for choosing the CBear BB, is it LBS for the failed install, or Canyon for sloppy tolerance on the BB?

This is why N+1 is important. My old Planet X sits on the turbo. If I have to, I can swap some parts and match the fit on the Speedmax!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hhjvHvWfTZb5bZkv7

Hey All,

I snagged a new Canyon CF 7 Disc last week and it will be delivered later this week.

Few questions:
Anything I should focus on or be concerned with up front as I put it together?I have a Kickr 16. Do I need to order anything specific for this thru axle? My current bike that’s on the kickr has drop outs.I really wanted Di2, but just could not afford that version after taxes/shipping/fit. How hard is it to fit for Di2 at a later date?Overall user experience / quality on the CF 7 Disk?
Excited to get rolling!

Hey all,
I didn’t even make it to a NBD pic before breaking my bike. Ugh!
I was using the supplied torque wrench to adjust the seat height, and it was slightly too tall so you had to do some maneuvering around the seat to get it to spin. In doing this a few too many times at an angle, I’ve stripped the bolt to tighten the seat post down. I can no longer loosen it.
https://imgur.com/dh16qLZ
Am I screwed? What are my options here?
Lastly the front tire seemed to come with a quick release lever for the tire, but the back doesnt? You need a hex for the back only? That seems odd?
Thanks

Have you tried a rubber band? I’ve used that to help with stripped screws before with varying levels of success.

Has anyone filed a crash replacement claim lately with Canyon.

I’m curious what prices you’ve been quoted. I filed a crash claim and the price they came back was double what I was seeing online so I’m not sure if they’re just basically charging full price for the frames or if they are charge me the price of a totally different frame.

For reference it was a cf 8

Canyon offered me a rim brake CF frame for £800.

Told me on the phone they had one. When I placed the order they said “two weeks to confirm stock”.

Giving racing season has started in the UK and Canyon’s usual long time lines (and they’re refusal to even consider a warranty claim) I declined and LBS sorted me out with a discounted upgrade.

Hey all,
I didn’t even make it to a NBD pic before breaking my bike. Ugh!
I was using the supplied torque wrench to adjust the seat height, and it was slightly too tall so you had to do some maneuvering around the seat to get it to spin. In doing this a few too many times at an angle, I’ve stripped the bolt to tighten the seat post down. I can no longer loosen it.
https://imgur.com/dh16qLZ
Am I screwed? What are my options here?
Lastly the front tire seemed to come with a quick release lever for the tire, but the back doesnt? You need a hex for the back only? That seems odd?
Thanks

Try one of these. Very carefully though so you don’t accidentally hit the frame. Regardless you will need to order a new one from Canyon. I’ll star with that as that might be what causes the longest wait. Good luck!
https://youtube.com/...6s&feature=share

I’m looking to switch to the PD 1/seventeen stem, but it doesn’t quite seem to fit with the stock spacer and its alignment tab. I have read posts saying that the tab that sticks out needs to be trimmed. Does the whole thing that sticks up - the tab and the circle - need to be cut/sanded down? Has anyone done this? Should I just buy another spacer instead? I appreciate all the advise this forum provides!

Thanks

I suggest you drop a few lines to PD and ask. They have all the specs and could tell you for sure. :slight_smile:

Wow…even given USD to pounds they still quoted me well over that…hmmm I’ll have to call them again…

Basically after some digging last few days I realized I could switch to a competitors comparable frame for the same price or less than what they quoted me “with the steep discount”.

Hi guys! I have the new Speedmax CF 8.0 Di2 DISC that has a different geometry than the rim brake one. Have been looking for a way to use the Aeria Hydration on it but haven’t found other info than the one that involves in changing the stem to the Profile Design one that won’t look good a all.

As a layman, I’m thinking that a face plate, much like the Profile Design HSF 1/17 one, would be a way to go. Unfortunately that face plate doesn’t match the Canyon v21 stem according to Profile Design. Canyon does however make a v21 in 90 mm that will be large enough to fit the hydration system.

So I was wondering if there’s anyone out there who might be willing to create a CAD model of a face plate that on one side is like the PD HSF for mounting the Aeria hydration system and on the inner side, having the holes that matches the Canyon v21 stem.

I know that 3d-printing in aluminum isn’t cheap and I’m too much of a novice to know if that print would meet all the requisites needed for it to be safe to use but I’m sure there are someone out there who might know or at least, point me in the direction of someone who might know.

I’m sure there are many of us who would find such and adapter very useful and I for one, am willing to pay for that. :slight_smile: I live in Sweden in case there’s someone close enough willing to see the parts personally.

https://www.profile-design-eu.com/…-hsf-aeria-faceplate

https://www.canyon.com/...m-medium/106426.html

https://i.imgur.com/xIcbKB1b.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/DylvR0Cb.jpg

I am just going to leave this here in case anyone wants to see how I have mounted my Garmin Varia radar on my Speedmax. After ages looking for a suitable mount, multiple times the Garmin rubber bands turning to the side during a ride I settled on this. Its a Lifeline branded gravity cap mount (K Edge also do one) that uses a M5 flat recessed screw to mount to the bottle cage hole. Absolutely rock solid and no more worry about loosing it or movement during a race.

Mounting points on my bento have broken. So looking at getting a new one.

While I’m at it I’m thinking of some changes to the front end.
Current set up is the 100mm aeria stem, canyon bar, and 25 degree armpads on top of the factory sppacer.
My fit is set up that I am maxed out on reach and pads are sitting right on top of the bar.

Should I drop the bar and leave the stear tube uncut?(Really not wanting to cut it for resale value) leaving the standard bento height.
Debating on a replacement canyon bento or this softshell Profile design I saw at a shop that looks decent Not sure if the brake cable routing would work with it.
Will I find some aero gains here by dropping the bar?

My other concern with dropping the bar is altering the pad dimension in space. Dropping the bar and raising the pads essentially moves the pads back around the circle of the clamping point. So it will probable give me less reach.

To follow up on this, I finally got all the parts together (some were seriously delayed thanks to chip production issues), got the whole thing to my bike shop, and have the bike back. I’m trying to figure out exactly how they mounted the battery in the downtube (the mount holes are unoccupied, so it looks like they just shoved the battery in? That conversation is ongoing and I’m not sure if they’re wrong or I’m wrong), but after looking at how the Junction A is set up, I have to say I’m a fan. It slides on to the bento box pretty securely, but it slides off easily to charge it, too. I honestly didn’t realize how clean it would be once they installed it.

The holes it slides across to stay locked in:

And how it looks installed:

IMG_2139.jpeg
IMG_2138.jpeg

Hi,

I just ordered a Canyon CF8 Di2 and would like to install a FC or Aeria system on it without having to change the original Canyon handlebars.

#1 Did anyone successfully install the FC system? (It seems that the gap between aerobar is too narrow to fit the attachment brackets and thus may be a no go )

#2 If I have to go with the Aeria system, do I just need to order their 100mm stem and hydration container? or are other accessories required (e.g. spacers for the stem etc…)?

#3 S bend handle bars to narrow hand position & go around hydration system ?
Does anyone have a good suggestion for S type aerobar compatible with Canyon handle bars and Di2 system ? The S shape should allow to "wrap around the hydration system and help get a parallel grip and closer hand position than the Canyon original L bent bars.

Thanks in advance for any answer and suggestion.

Cordially,
FG

Hi! Not sure if you’re still in need of the information but I’ve been trying to find out the same although on the Speedmax CF Disc Di2. Profile design told me this when I asked them:

“The 1/seventeen stem will fit fine. It just won’t have the smooth lines matching the top tube box like the V21. So your bike would suffer aesthetically but be lighter and functionally no loss. With the HSF bottle it would then be more aero.”

So basically, you could go with the Aeria Ultimate stem (heavier and only two sizes) or you could go with the 1/seventeen stem + the HSF faceplate (cheaper, lighter but not as cool looking).

Good luck and please post what you concluded in a pic or two. :slight_smile:

Profile Design has a PSA against using the 1/seventeen stem with the Canyon V21 stem and the inherent danger of doing so.

I am having this problem with the Canyon rear bottle holder and my ISM saddle. The bottle is almost impossible to get in and out. Does anyone have had similar issues and solved them?

Are there other bottle holders on the market? I really would like to make use of the screw holes there.

d3343a8c-42f0-4c1e-a09e-b9730e36531b.jpg

Hi
After reading all of the various posts on front hydration systems I tried a couple of options on my CF8 (x-lab hydroblade, vision metron) and to be brutally honest they all look a bit shit. I’m really not in to the whole false nose look - I think it takes a great looking bike and makes it look like a poor copy of Giant Trinity (which isn’t great in my book) so didn’t want to go for the PD Aria.
I’ve gone old school with a X-lab torpedo bolted to the top of my Tririg sigma x stem. It looks clean and it works. Thoughts?

B3CA1419-D1D9-4580-844C-5C43B5171DE9.jpeg