Newbie buying first tri bike

I am relatively new to triathlon and have been using a specialized roubaix expert road bike with clip on aero bars. I am planning to do a full IM in 2015 and am looking to get a Tri bike. I had a bike fitting with the guru system and the fitter recommended a specialized shiv for my stack and reach. I am trying to decide between a stock shiv pro race and a tricked out expert with Ultegra Di2 and race wheels. The price is a wash between the two. I could add stages power to the expert level bike more easily without completely changing the crank.
I am looking for any advice that this forum could give. Thanks in advance!

Seems to me that you’ve got a good idea of what you’d like to do, and started at the absolute most important point: fit. I’m amazed at how many fellow age-groupers I see sitting up on the bullhorns who can’t seem to stay in their aero position once they’re a few km’s into the bike leg (presumably due to poor fit)… So, if your bike fits properly to allow you to stay as aerodynamic as possible–essentially forever–that will be one of your biggest advantages & gains.

I’ve personally found that the right saddle is really key to comfortable fit and aero-power maximization, so while your fit coordinates dictate the Shiv, don’t overlook the saddle… and don’t skimp $ there or tolerate something that doesn’t work perfectly for you (IMO).

Re: Di2 and/or wheels… number of different threads that get into that either/or here, so you can read-up on everyone else’s take. But, as someone who has both, I’ll give you mine… If I had to choose based on $, I’d go w/ the best, most durable, and best-warrantied wheels I could afford alongside a preferred mechanical groupset, instead of Di2. I ride Enve 8.9s (+ DashCycles Disc) that dramatically improve aerodynamics and handling, making you faster w/ the same effort. After reading up on others’ opinions here on the Di2 vs. Wheels debate, where ability to shift from the brake-levers was cited “as something to make you faster,” (???) I decided to count how many times I shifted from the brake-lever shifters during my last two races… twice in one, never in another (and one of the two would have been completely unnecessary if I had downshifted appropriately heading into a turnaround). That said, I’m more of a Froome-style climber as I stay in the aero position even up the steeper stuff… anyway…

Another area is serviceability of Di2 vs. Mechanical for super bikes. Do you have a mechanic LBS that you’ll rely on for service, or will do you most/all yourself? Are you comfortable with one over another… just an additional consideration.

And just one other thing to throw out there as food for thought… Kienle just crushed Kona w/ mechanical SRAM Red, no powermeter, no computer for even cadence/speed/distance, & no watch for the run. WTF? WTF. Obviously he’s better than everyone, but learning that was something that I found interesting (and cause for a bit of pause) when considering dropping $1K on a Stages PM arm for my Dura Ace crank…

Re: Di2 and/or wheels… number of different threads that get into that either/or here, so you can read-up on everyone else’s take. But, as someone who has both, I’ll give you mine… If I had to choose based on $, I’d go w/ the best, most durable, and best-warrantied wheels I could afford alongside a preferred mechanical groupset, instead of Di2. I ride Enve 8.9s (+ DashCycles Disc) that dramatically improve aerodynamics and handling, making you faster w/ the same effort. After reading up on others’ opinions here on the Di2 vs. Wheels debate, where ability to shift from the brake-levers was cited “as something to make you faster,” (???) I decided to count how many times I shifted from the brake-lever shifters during my last two races… twice in one, never in another (and one of the two would have been completely unnecessary if I had downshifted appropriately heading into a turnaround). That said, I’m more of a Froome-style climber as I stay in the aero position even up the steeper stuff… anyway…

A .

  • the reason I got the brake lever shifters on my new P3 had nothing to do with the race usage and everything to do with the other 48 weeks of the year when I’m out training, riding amongst traffic, descending hills and finding myself in the wrong chainring etc. did I need the brake shifters in Kona? of course not, but I’m glad I have them.
  • Kienle won the race because he’s an awesome athlete. get the power metre if you want, or not… again, it’s more a tool for training
  • to the OP, when I recently had a Retul Fit done ( june 2014) and they also pointed me at either a Shiv or a P3. apparently, in my size, there is very little difference in the stac/reach. I went with the P3. Jus say’n

Thanks for your in depth replies. I’m still a bit torn though. Maybe because there is more want than need on my list, as I’m a middle of the pack age grouper.

It’s a big investment. Get the one you want. It will make you want to ride it more. I’d go powermeter over Di2. Electronic shifting is a luxury item. Cool to have, but not essential. What is the difference between the Shiv Pro and Expert?

Well didn’t kid just prove that you don’t need a powermeter? Or heck, even a garmin? Well actually Kienle proved that but still…

Shivs are pretty expensive so I’d find other bikes with similar geometry if you’re MOP cyclist. Not to discourage you but for far less you can get a machine that will match your level of proficiency and save you money. On the bike it’s all about the engine not the bike. With that being said if you can leverage the bike purchase to get you to be more motivated to train and become a FOP cyclist then do what you must. Without knowing anything other than what your post includes I would look at QR CD0.1, FELT B Series and CERVELO P2/P3 bikes to see if you can save the money on the bike and put it into wheels, aero helmet, power meter, coaching etc to get your performance gains vs having a flashy bike. Making sure to keep the fit as the priority and as others said find the right saddle for you.

Don’t let me dissuade you however. The Shiv is a nice piece of kit and will bring you many years of good racing.

Well didn’t kid just prove that you don’t need a powermeter? Or heck, even a garmin? Well actually Kienle proved that but still…

No, Kienle still uses a powermeter in training.