My husband got me a new set of wheels for my upcoming birthday - Zipp 404s. (Whatta guy!) They’re coming Fed Ex today.
I’m a runner that’s being doing triathlon for a few years now, and I don’t know a lot as far as bikes go. My questions are these - 1) I’ve seen people being ridiculed on previous posts for training on race wheels. I only have one bike, so can’t train on one and race on another. Is it ridiculous to train on these wheels regularly? Obviously, I need to train on them sometimes to get and stay used to them, but should I be ‘saving’ these for races? What is the advantage to training on my old wheels (adequate Rolfs)?
Between now and Eagleman I’ll only have one opportunity to try out the new wheels - an easy 20 milers on Thursday. Should I use them for the race, or go with the tried and trusted?
I know how my husband will answer the the first question (use whatever wheels you want, the Zipps are better, so use them to train) and I’m not sure how he’ll answer the second question, but I’m interested in other opinions, too. Any thoughts?
I guess you could say there are two resons to not train on your race wheels. First, there is the pschologial “boost” of going to your fastest equipment on race day and training on heavier wheels for supposed added training benefit. When you put the nice, light race wheels on your bike just suddenly feels SO fast. That is a nice change from how the bike feels in training and a nice boost on race day. Second, If you hit a chuckhole or get taken down by another cyclist on your race wheels you are out big bucks. If you have the same accident on your training wheels you stand to loose a lot less monetarily.
As for using them in the race- I think as long as you know your tires and cogset are correctly installed and you have done a good shake-down ride on them going through all the gears and cranking up some hills that pretty much assures they will be fine on race day.
If you are a light rider and new to deep section wheels you may feel turbulence in a gusty wind situation. Don’t be scared. It will not knock you over or any of that foolishness (until the wind gets to well over 35 mph is my guess depending on your weight). When you feel the turbulence that is the sensation of the wind pressing on your wheels and speeding you up- OK, well, maybe not all the time… but that is the way to think of it. Whatever you do- don’t back off the pedals if you are on clear road with no obstructions around- just keep the power on the pedals and point it straight. You’ll be WAY faster!
1 - The race wheels should be completely set up and ready to roll (tires and cassette), so you just remove your old wheels and put your new wheels on. So having 1 bike does not make a difference.
2 - Do not train on them regularly. As Tom said “mental aspect is important” and you probably can’t afford to replace them if you crash\hit a huge pothole. As well, you may put very expensive race tires on them which sucks if they tears in them due to glass.
3 - Definitely do a 20 miler to get used to them. This is a great opportunity to figure out bike computer magnet mounting issues or anything else that pops up.
Wow! What a great guy ya’ got there! The astute posters have already given you some great advice - one thing I’d add is this (and it probably goes without saying, but just in case…) - make sure you’re confident in your ability to change a flat on your new wheels. It’d be a shame to have to bail as a result of a flat. Have a great race!
To make the race and training wheel switch work easily, you will need to purchace a few items: a race wheel cassette (the rear cogset), race tires (2), race tubes (2), race rim strips (2–this is if you are using race clincher tires), and possibly race wheel quick-release skewers as Zipps don’t come with them.
Get the lightest set up (the parts above) that fits your budget and body size.
For your training wheels, put on the fattest road tires that will fit on them and clear your frame and fork. The reasons: a lot more comfort for your rear end, better traction in all weather, less flats, less tire wear, less wheel damage on bad roads, and more training resistance (so when you get on the race wheel set-up, you will fly in comparision).
Thanks! This is all good advice, especially concerning wind (hadn’t even thought about that, but it’s a really good point. Now it won’t take me by surprise) and being able to change the tire, which takes me 20-30 minutes under the best of circumstances anyway. And yeah, he’s a great guy. He bought me my bike for Christmas a couple of years ago, too!
On another note, I was just out for a lunchtime ride, and as I was approaching a red traffic light, at which there were several cars lined up, an old guy in a car sped up to get past me so that he could pull over far enough to the right to ensure I couldn’t get between him and the curb. (God I hate that!!!) So I slowed down, waiting for the light to turn green and for the line of cars to take off. Well, the light took forever, I’m getting very close to the car ahead of me, I’m moving very slowly and I’m still clipped in. When the light finally turned green, the old guy was so busy looking in his rear view mirror he didn’t move, and of course I came to a complete stop to avoid hitting his car, still clipped in and I tipped over.
Nothing really hurt but my pride, but I did rip open my almost-healed knee (I tripped when running in February). I’m sure I was good for a chuckle for a whole lot of people - it’s a five points intersection. Great.
You don’t necessarily have to buy a new cassette for your race wheel. I just swap over my training cassette to my race wheel. I had always heard the chain and cogs wear together so never bothered to buy cassette for my race wheel since it would never really get a chance to wear down. Only takes a few minutes (wear latex gloves and you won’t even get your hands dirty). I usually take the opportunity to clean the cogs real good with some simple green solution and maybe even remove and clean the chain. Ask hubby to do this if you don’t want to or don’t know how.
I think he did get me a new cassette, too. He’s into work reduction, himself, and I’m sure isn’t looking for more things I can ask him to do (hey, baby, my bike’s not shifting right and it’s making a lot of noise. I think it needs a tune up. Can you take a look at it? )
Delivery of the wheels has been delayed until tomorrow, so I’ll know then exactly what I’ve got. Woo hoo!
Your guys think of more ways to spend money. You don’t need multiple tubes, cogs, chains, etc. If you like your Zipps, put them on your bike and ride them. The comment about hitting a pot hole and wrecking them really shouldn’t be a concern. To wreck a set of road wheel, you usually have to crash pretty big. If you see a pothole coming, turn your handlebars and avoid it. I would be more concern about riding at race tempo on a set of wheels that are going to handle different than what you train on.
)