Anyone else experienced “high speed wobble” of the front end going downhill at higher speeds (75-80 km/h | 45-50 mph), with some cross winds? I got it really bad in Mont-Tremblant 70.3, once in training (dry conditions) and once during the race on wet roads (and hard rain going sideways), I almost lost control.
Pretty scary stuff.
Ref: 2023 SC, Medium frame, Base bar = Low (SLR), HED RC6 (60mm) front wheel.
Not sure if this can be a factor at all, but at rest, my steering felt “very easy to turn”.
so once back at home I’ve re-set the headset bearing pre-load tighter in hopes this would help. Now at rest it does not turn ‘as easy’ (but feeling normal).
I’ve read the general ST posts on the “high speed wobble” subject - I am 90% sure I was already clenching the top tube with my knees (std practice for me going down) but if it happens again I have to try to add or remove weight from the saddle to change the rigidity and dynamic response of the assembly.
Still, never had anything like that in 10 years riding 2 Gen 2 SC’s. It really caught me off guard.
Wondering if anyone else experience something like that. It really surprised me, especially since I am not running a deep front wheel.
Hard to test and replicate at home though, since all is flat for hundred miles around me Kind of scares me too, going into Kona next October, with famous cross winds going down Hawi… it was never too to bad the times I was there but with my luck this year will be the worse
Hi all, I’ve got the option to buy a used SLR 7 for a good discount vs buying new. I’m 184cm and My pad stack is ~650mm and reach is ~480mm. I run a 755mm saddle height as well with 165mm cranks.
The only “problem†is this frame is a M and I’m probably more of a L. If I purchased the far toppers to swap out I’d be near the end of the range but otherwise the M fits. Any reason you wouldn’t go with the M even though the fit coordinates work (albeit on the far end of the range)?
My stack is a little shorter but my reach is 480 as well. You are correct u have a bout 15mm left I can push it out on far toppers - so atleast from that perspective you will be fine. I have the seat at 76.5cm as well on a medium and I’m 178 cm tall. I must be all legs. For the life of me can’t remember my stack but I have a 35mm tower topper and one angled spacer and that’s it. I remember my pad drop was 12.5cm …. You’d think I’d remember my stack measurements I’d have to dig them out. But you will be fine on a medium
Steve and others ,
If one was to change from a medium base bar height to a low bar bar height, would that increase the tower stack height need by 15mm for aerobar fit is that correct ? Refer to attached snapshot .
Thanks legends!
Sorry missed this. My fit is 675 and 487mm with 780mm to rail. I’m 191cm tall.
But, when I was ordering my Project One I had the choice of M, L and XL. All would have worked for me. The difference came down to which one would fit in a travel case easiest and which one gave me more adjustment before I hit the limit and needed to buy different toppers (which is spendy and a bit of a faff with cables).
My point being if the trek system offered me a M at my dimensions it will certainly work for you. Just make sure you check what base bar is fitted and also be aware that you buy the toppers individually (not pairs) and also need the screws.
What amazes me is that Trek still doesn’t offer an aftermarket solution to allow us to choose our own bars. Even on the Trek website the photos they use of the sponsored pros show them with non-stock aero extensions. I wish they’d just release an adapter that allows me to use 51 Speedshop extensions!
Hey all, I’m loving my new SLR 7! My only gripe is that the stock aero bottle self ejects at the slightest bump while making a heck of a racket otherwise. What frame mounted bottle/cage do y’all recommend? Thanks,
I’m a few thousand miles in on my SLR9 and haven’t had a single issue with the aero frame bottle ejecting. Might be worth checking to ensure the tube/frame storage lid under the bottle is on properly. It might not be secured correctly and is causing upward pressure on the aero bottle when under heavy vibration leading to the bottle wanted to eject.
If that’s not the case, might be worth reaching out to Trek for a solution as the stock bottle is a key element to the overall aero properties of the bike.
For training I run two standard bottle cages. I hit a pothole that caused a sidewall blowout so bad that the storage lid with the tire and CO2 attachment was jarred loose and wedged in so I couldn’t get it out. Luckily I was near a bike shop I could walk to and get my tire replaced. By the time I got home the storage lid and its attachments had worked its way free. I tell you this as I have added a piece of electrical tape over the bottom of the storage lid to help keep it in place.
Got my Speed Concept back in May and logged around 1,500 miles on it. I flew to Europe from the US for the 70.3 in Tallinn, but unfortunately, the bike got damaged on the return trip. It was packed in a Scicon Aerocomfort 3.0 Triathlon bag.
The chainstay ended up cracking, but my local Trek store assures me it will be replaced under warranty. On top of that, my Bontrager Aeolus RSL 75 wheels are crooked, and the brake rotors are bent. There are also some smaller scuffs and scratches.
well, participating in some german events, it is forbidden to have the bottle reaching behind the axis of the steerer tube…this was causing trouble…but it seems to be a local german things…pros were allowed to use any setup they wish…
Kind of scares me too, going into Kona next October, with famous cross winds going down Hawi… it was never too to bad the times I was there but with my luck this year will be the worse 
