I have a new frame on the way to race on this season. Now to understand the maginitude of this, consider that I have been racing on the same tri bike for the past ten years. I have always felt that it was hard to replace a bike that still went fast.
Now that the decision has been made on the frame I have to decide on new race wheels since I am moving from 650’s to 700’s. Of course I have some ideas in mind but just thought I would canvass the collective ST wisdom to see if there were any ideas that I had not thought of.
On my old tri bike I was racing a HED 3 up front and a Renn 575 disk on the back.
If money were not a major consideration but speed and handling were, what would you get?
good ideas. Won’t go with a Powertap build though. If I do a power meter at all it will be SRM cranks.
My new race wheels will be tubulars. So far in my book of ideas if I don’t go with a disk about the only other rear I am considering presently would be a Zipp 1080.
10years old? wtf? that bike is almost as old as you. btw Spencer R. wanted me to say hello to you AND that he and his artifical hip will be hitting the du scene next year again.
Hmm…interesting. Since you asked, I went and checked, and I can’t seem to find them anywhere online anymore. They used to sell them from their website, but that seems to have changed. And it seems there are no American dealerships, so you would have to find it online somewhere. Disappointing, because I had hoped to buy some one day when I have an insane amount of money to spend.
I wouldn’t. The difference is lighter hubs and ceramic bearings as far as i know. The weight difference is something miniscule like 50g. Not worth the money for me. I’d spend the difference on some good fast tubulars like Veloflex Carbons. And get good brake pads like Koolstop carbons or Swissstop carbons.
Mike - Since I suppose that you are going to be using those new wheels in Richmond, I suggest that you look in to one of the Fred Flintstone models . . . Seriously, it will be interesting to see what you show up with. Good luck!
I find it hard to believe that money is not a consideration. I mean, there is always ways to spend it besides this tri thing :).
Any ways…After having almost every Zipp (except the 1080) and Hed wheel the last 5 years I would stay with Hed. Probably Stinger (you said tubular right?) 6 front and 9 rear. I never really cared for an 808 up front even with a disc on the back. At 6-1 178 pounds (race weight) I had a few nervous times while racing IMWI. No big deal, but just not worth the hassle to me. I am not sold on anything bigger than a 60 on the front, or even a disc on the rear. I am sure they are faster, but probably only by a few seconds over an IM course.
Lot’s of discussion on the value of anything over 60mm deep on the front recently. I am sure a quick search will reveal the threads.
<< I find it hard to believe that money is not a consideration. I mean, there is always ways to spend it besides this tri thing :).
while money really is a small consideration the way I look at it, I don’t by new equipment often so I don’t mind spending extra to get it right the first time. Considering that the tri bike I am retiring (Merlin Ariel) is 10 years old and the race wheels are 6 years old, I don’t go out and replace stuff just because something hot and new came out the following year.
Besides, I don’t have a wife and kids to spend money on and my girlfriend gets treated extremely well (as do I by her) so spending money on triathlon equipment is not the major financial drain to me that it can be for some others.
Flamme Rouge wheels also have ceramic bearings. A forged titanium ratchet ring. Titanium skewers. Carbon hub shells. If these wheels were in a bar, they wouldn’t be on the top shelf – they would be in a custom made cabinet, with a lock on it.