Bought a new DT Swiss front wheel, arc 1100 62 a few months ago but have only used for one event. Wheel seems to have resistance and doesn’t seem to spin freely. Turns for about 35 seconds when you spin by hand on bike and when off bike, there seems to be resistance when turning the hub axle by hand. I compared to three other same model DT Swiss front wheels at Wollongong a couple weeks ago. They all spun more freely, over two minutes when spun on bike. Even the hub axle when turned by hand on the other wheel turned more freely. I sent the wheel back to DT Swiss and they are telling me there is no issue. The hub “releases” when riden. They are sending wheel back. Question: anyone have this issue or have suggestions how to fix? Was thinking of taking to a wheelbuilder for opinion but really disappointed with DT Swiss and their wheel. Any thoughts appreciated.
I am having problems with a brand new never been used DT wheel
It’s unfair to bash DT Swiss without being a bit more informed. If you are really concerned, test another brand new wheel.
Ride it. It’s brand new and hasn’t been broken in yet. I don’t know what grease they use in the sealed cartridge bearings, but it needs some time to be evenly distributed. Same goes for the CONTACT seals used in bearings. The tolerances are tight and any contact points are dry. This is normal behavior for bearings and they will loosen up.
Thanks Tribart but not bashing DT Swiss. As I said, “disappointed”. Thanks for suggestion but I”ve tested, bought andused many wheels over the years. HEDs, Enves, Zipps. All performed right out of the box. I bought the DT wheel to race, not ride forever on the streets “breaking it in”. How many miles does a wheel need to be broken in to perform at 100%?
Check you brake rotor and make sure its not rubbing anywhere in the caliber.
The 1100 series has a 36T ratchet, take the free hub off and make sure that the two springs are in correctly.
Make sure you are using a low viscosity grease on the ratchet and internals. If factory bought I would take apart and clean the axil, ratchets, springs etc. Ideally you should use DT Swiss special grease but white lithium grease works just as good.
try that and check back in.
I use DT Swiss hubs exclusively. No other hubs.
edit
Replied as to a rear wheel
Front wheel, I would
Check the grease amount, ,myself regardless I would change it out to less viscous grease.
And I would check for rub in the caliber. We take it for granted that a rotor is a plug and play from wheel to wheel, take out the pads and put the wheel in and see how it spins, then put it in and spin it, you’d be surprised how many might have a bad piston.
I dont think anyone is trying to BASH them..
For the one event that you used the ‘new’ DT Swiss wheel, how was your bike time? How did the wheel feel? I was at Wollongong too.
FYI…found online… When spinning by hand….Spin time of around 35 seconds is normal for a new, high-end DT Swiss front wheel. New race wheels often spin for a shorter duration by hand than older, worn-in wheels due to the presence of fresh, often thicker, grease and tight seals in the new bearings, which create a small amount of initial drag.
Also….“Spin Time” is not an indicator of performance: The length a wheel spins by hand in a stand is not a reliable indicator of rolling efficiency or speed when riding. Under a rider’s weight and at speed, the difference in friction between a new, well-greased hub and a “looser” one is negligible.
Yep, I think it was ceramic speed that often gets called out for showing how freely their BBs spin when it’s predominantly due to a lack of lubricant being used..
Maybe there is a market for one use BBs and wheel bearings that use no lubricant and are destroyed after 180ks 
this really is the point - spin time is a meaningless metric for ride friction losses.
Test it. Old school idiots like me have a TT loop where they can test on new vs old, modern cyclists should have power meters and bike computers, which will be enough to get a rough idea of power and speed for new vs old.
I run ceramic bearings dry, without lubricant, in my baitcasting fishing reels. The dry bearings are lower friction in use (casting) and the ceramics can easily endure a couple decades of this, long enough to see me out. But I’d hesitate to run bike or car bearings dry, the loads are much higher in those applications..
Thanks Mike-s, and others. I’ll give these suggestions a shot once I get wheel back from DT Swiss. They finally confirmed it’s “within their tolerances” and are sending it back. My main concern wasn’t the spin time but the fact when the wheel is out and you turn the hub axle with your thumb and forefinger, there is some slight resistance, where all the other DT Swiss wheels I tested, the axle spun very freely, no resistance whatsoever. In any, event, I’ll try these suggestions. LJ, I used an older wheel at Wollongong. Haven’t used the DT Swiss since first used at NATs last summer. Did a 1.01 bike split at Wollongong which I was ok with considering the extremely crowded three loop course. BTW, if anyone knows a good wheelbuilder/bike shop in the Miami area, I’d appreciate a name to check out the above suggestions. Thanks again guys.