ok…it rain a lot in victoria and i would like to get into MTB for the off season and also during the season as a alternative to not always be on my road or TT bike. I already ride cyclo cross but it s kind of getting boring and i want to go in smaller hilly trails.
I dont know much about MTB and wants to know what is the basic minimum i need on a bike to have fun and not break it on the first week? I have done one race on a borrow bike…i think it was a full xtr specialized s work something with tubeless tubular and dual controle shifters(i love those and want some!!!) but i dont think i need this nice of a machine???
i dont really plan on racing much…maybe once awile or a xterra on day but just wonder what i should get. I prefer to get use bike as i dont want to spend much more than 600-900$.
IS LX enough for someone like me??? better, cheaper? is it a bad idea to buy a used bike?
Hardly an expert, but I've raced a bunch. Definitely do not need XTR, and should not go below LX. LX or XT from Shimano's line. SRAM X9 stuff is also a good level of performance before hitting nutso cost. Tubeless is probably a good choice too, as you'll be able to run less pressure in soft conditions and not flat.
i would steer clear of XTR, especially used. People call it ‘race and break’ for a reason. LX should certainly do the trick, even better if you can find SRAM x-7 rear. You can significantly reduce the initial and maintenance cost if you go with a hard tail over a FS. It depends on the type of riding you want to do. For the price you mentioned you can probably get a used XT (or X9) rear LX front aluminium HT in good shape.
yep…definitly, i want to go for hardtail, i just hope i can get something that isnt a tank so if i want to jump into a race, i can…
so LX and sram x-7
how much cost the shimano dual control shifters…i really think they make my life super easy as it s like riding my normal road sti… is LX and sram similar to the xt and xtr dual(sti) shifting???
*Hey Jonnyo *
*The big prob with buying a used MTB bike is most of the time there pretty worked! And you in a wet environment so many parts could be used up. *
*If you do go looking for used look for disc brakes they will really help in the wet conditions, saves a lot on brake pads and rims. I have a good buddy that lives in Whistler and he only uses disc brakes now. I would look for the Canadian brands like rocky mountain they seem to have good value for the money. *
*And XT is the way to go, I’m running a K2 Razor back duely with grip shift X.O. with XT cranks, the grip shift is much simpler to maintain then the new duel control Shimano but both are very good. * You can get a mountain bike for about the $1000 range but it’s going to weight in at about 26 or 27 lbs. but at that price rang I would look for a hard tail you will get more for your money.
*Have fun! * Dan…
if you get a bike with sram rear, it will probably have lx front as the sram one apparently is not very good. the standard shifters from shimano or sram are both good but different. the shimano use thumb / trigger fingers on either side of the bar. the thumb on your right hand/rear der operates like the brake lever on the STI and the index like the small lever. the sram has dual thumb trigger which takes a bit of getting used to.
i just got a bike with x-7 shifters, after a few rides i like them a lot. it has an x9 rear der and it actually makes a pinging when it goes into gear, its awesome.
look for used trek 8000 or 8500 or a specialized stumpjumper (c’dales are awesome, but used might be tough with a lefty or headshok as they are more expensive to maintain and you dont know what you are getting). its like road bikes though, to lighten it up new wheels help a lot. especially b/c you are accelerating so often. the tubeless tire hint is also a good one, you can run low pressure and not risk pinch flats. i think they might be lighter too. that might be a good way to get into a bike then upgrade it later if you want to race it.
Grip shifters rock. Very easy to get used to, and they work really well. I preferred my old gripshift to my current dual controls (came with the bike). I don’t know much about SRAM stuff, but with Shimano I’d probably go with XT if you are planning on doing any racing. Also decide if you want rapidrise or not. I have a rapidrise XTR rear derailleur, and I cannot get used to it. I always shift the wrong way a couple of times every ride.
I was a MTB mechanic in a former life and would definitely spend the money in the following order of priority, assuming you are not going to race:
Component Group - reliable shifting and braking in the muck is THE priority
Quality Rims - durability and weight reign here
Tires - dependent on your most common terrain
Fork - again depending on your most common terrain, a good shock-absorbing fork can really improve your ride
Frame material - it matters but it matters more if you are going to race
Some other thoughts…
Looking at your posts, you are obviously someone with some cycling (albeit road) experience. I think your budget is too low for a quality MTB that will really hold up well. I would consider LX to be the bare minimum for you and also agree that disc brakes are the only way to go. A FSB has never been my cup of tea so I love the hardtail choice. Finally, I can’t emphasize enough the regular maintenance and cleaning on a MTB. Mud, water, sticks, rocks, etc. reak absolute havoc on your components and they really should be cleaned every time you ride to get the longest life out of your new stead.
Looks like there have been a few possibilities there over the last month or so.
You might even consider posting a wanted ad there, but in that case of course
watch for scams and only deal locally. An aluminum hardtail with LX or so
that hasn’t had too much wear should serve your purpose.
I bookmarked this thread before my eye were dilated and I can’t see crap…so I apologize in advance for typos and dup info.
Although components are important, they are also “cheap” to replace. In your price-range, it’s not unreasonable to get an XT rear and Hayes Discs. (You can change the front when it breaks). Cranks are a few years ahead of road tech, so again I’d get something with an external BB…although nothing wrong with older square taper XT/LX stuff. I have an old set of LX cranks that I really like.
You’ll find that there really aren’t too many rules in MTB upgrades…as many guys get pleasure from riding POS bikes.
My guess is that you could almost get a “nice” full suspension bike for around $1000 - Used. (Santa Cruz SuperLight or K2 Razorback). Of course, many used bike need some TLC…but the Superlight is basically the P2K of the MTB world.
If possible…stretch the budget a lil as I bet you’ll be riding it more than you think.
A few months ago I too was also debating on getting a Cross bike or a nice Mtb .
I decided on a K2 full suspension as I already had a hardtail and wanted something for more technical single track trails w/ some good drops. I’m new to this stuff myself but I plan to do an Xterra race in 07 so the K2 has worked out awesome !
Its got a blend of X9/X7 Sram and it shifts soooo nice. Real positive fast click and you’re there. My hardtail had older Shimano LX from 03 and I like the SRAM better.
Like some of the other posters said- make sure you get a decent fork with good travel ( at least 4-5" IMHO ) MArzocchi, Fox, Rock Shox.
And brakes are super important. Mine came with lousy Tektro discs and manual calipers. They’re OK for XC, but they’re going to get replaced with Avid hydraulics soon. Other than that good luck !
thanks everyone for the advice…i will ask around and try to find something good…i may have to streach my budget as i may fall in love with that kind of riding and i know i get hard on equippement pretty quickly.
anyone have a opinion the the trek9.8 or 9.9??? the frame is carbon and i saw a lot of them for pretty cheap…is it a problem…carbon and mtb?
One can build a fairly decent hardtail for less than $900.
Find a decent fork on clearance online ($200), put it on an Access XCL frame from performance ($100), add SRAM X-7 drivetrain and decent wheels.
I prefer new to used MTBs. But you can find some slightly used and not abused bikes out there. My first real MTB was a GT XCR500) that someone had converted to a comfort bike complete with kickstand, riser stem, and fatty seat. It was in great shape and I still have it.
Good bikes. My buddy recent sold his 9.8 for a K2 Razor and was very happy with his “swap”.
Whichever route you go, make sure you have a upgrade path.
I rode one of my hardtails (I have a lot of bikes) with a Thudbuster (suspension seat post) LT on a long ride a few months ago and was somewhat impressed by its performance…damn heavy though. Just another bit of info to confuse you.
Regardless…there are always going to be advocates either way. Conrad Stoltz would certainly tell you to buy a FS while Jeremy Horgan-Kolbelski (?) would never be seen on anything other than a hardtail…
Another thought to ponder, much of the movement “back” to hardtail is because of tubeless technology creating the ability to ride at lower PSI (traction and bump absorption). So, if you’re going to save $$$ on a hardtail frame, make sure you invest in UST or Stan’s technology…
Seems like you are getting a lot of responses with some great information. I do think your price point is a bit low and it is true, as opposed to buying a road/tri bike used, mtbing is really hard on the old equipment…especially the drive train where you are making a number of last second, under full load gear changes…especially in super technical stuff. Anyhoo, I have ridden in the way past the Trek Y bike carbon frame and with the exception of scratches from falling in rock gardens or endoing on rocky decents, it held up very well so I would assume on the newer models carbon process is even better. It is a bit unnerving to see all the scratches and I was using touch up paste but then I said, oh what the heck…who cares.
I love my dual controls (XT) and even though I had grip shifts, I prefer the dual controls. One advantage of grip shift, however, is being to dump the whole cog when going up in gears. Dual control is sequential. Also, if you can scrape it up, the Specialized Epic line with Brain technology in the rear is pretty sweet. Makes for a light responsive bike.