I have been perusing for a set of used race wheels for about a month. I would rather have clinchers because of the issues I have read about tubulars (i.e., gluing, difficulty changing them, etc.). In other words, I am more attracted to the simplicity of clinchers. However, it seems that about 80% of the race wheels on the used market are tubulars. Do I have myself believing that tubulars are too difficult to deal with because everyone seems to own a pair? Or, are the pains associated with them the reason why are there are so many on the secondary market? Please save the comments about searching the forum about this issue and how the clincher/tubular debate has raged since time eternity. The bottom line is that I am getting tired of looking for clinchers and am starting to wonder if I just need to buy tubulars.
Are you lookg at used race wheels for tris or bike races?
If bike races I would not get used wheels to race on.
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I only race tris. I have looked at Flashpoint and HED, and to a limited extent, Zipp, but the latter is too expensive for my taste.
The answer to your question is yes … no … maybe.
My theory is that recent research on rolling resistance is consistently showing that good clinchers, when paired with LATEX tubes, perform better than tubulars (even good tubulars). From there, people are factoring in the ease/convenience factors of clinchers and deciding to go that direction. So their used tubular stuff hits the resale market.
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I train on clinchers, race on tubulars. Exclusively. I have no intention to switch either my racing or training rubber. I don’t buy the rolling resistance arguments since I think most triathletes give up more speed by sitting up than they lose to rolling resistance differences betwee Pro Race whatevers and Tufos (which were supposedly the best and worst of the two types on the last test I saw).
Why tubulars? Light weight.
Why clinchers? Ease of use.
I have wheels with identical hubs, spokes and rims and the closest thing to the same tires (Vittoria Corsa and Open Corsa). I rode the two on the same route on consecutive days last year and really couldn’t discern the supposed superior ride quality of the tubulars. They were half a pound lighter though and I did think I noticed that on the climbs. Note the word think, though.
If you don’t want to fiddle with tubulars, you’ll have virtually the same results (possibly better rolling resistance, slower climbing but both almost not measurable) with clinchers and should not hesitate to go that way.
I think the reason there are more tubulars in the used market is simply that more people buy them for their high end wheels and that some people find they don’t want to deal with the hassle of gluing. It is a bit of a pain.
I think the reason there are more tubulars in the used market is simply that more people buy them for their high end wheels and that some people find they don’t want to deal with the hassle of gluing.
I agree. Many seem to get sold on tubulars early in the game, then find out that it does take a bit of extra work in dealing with them - not a huge amount, but clearly enough to put people over the edge. Then there is the cost issue - a flat on a good tubular, can be a $100 expense lost. Add in the fact that few people in this day and age are DIY types and are handing all of this work back over to their LBS, and I am sure the time and costs start to mount. Many simply give up, and sell the tubulars and go to clinchers. The up side, is that you can get some screaming deals on good tubular race wheels in the used market. BUT, I would spend a bit of money if I was buying used race wheels to have them checked over thoroughly by the best wheel builder in your area and have the wheels re-built. This would be time and money well invested.
Why tubulars? Light weight.
Why clinchers? Ease of use.
I have wheels with identical hubs, spokes and rims and the closest thing to the same tires (Vittoria Corsa and Open Corsa). I rode the two on the same route on consecutive days last year and really couldn’t discern the supposed superior ride quality of the tubulars. They were half a pound lighter though and I did think I noticed that on the climbs. Note the word think, though.
Just out of curiosity… Were you carrying a spare tire with you when riding the tubulars vs a spare tube when riding the clinchers? It’s not rotating weight, but if you think you felt a difference on climbs…
Steve
Yes, I had a spare but it was a very light Tufo (<165, not something I’d want to ride except to get home, but it came on a used wheel I bought a couple of years ago and still holds air). I actually weighed my seatpacks and the one with the tubular and Pit Stop was about 25 grams lighter than the one with two tubes and a second cartridge, perhaps because I also had a multi-tool with the clinchers.
The good side of each…
Tubulars are a pain in the butt to glue and maintain. But then that’s part of the techy fun side of it as well:)
Tubulars can be changed faster than a clincher and as you are putting on a whole new tire and tube you don’t need to check for glass or other junk and worrying about reflatting if you don’t find the offending sharp object
Tubular wheel/tire combos are generally a good bit lighter than clincher
Clinchers are a lot easier to maintain and get used to maintenance wise and tire mounting wise
Clinchers tires and tubes are a hell of a lot cheaper than tubies
Clinchers often use aluminum sidewalls which are a lot easier and consistent on brake pads
As to which to get, aside from the faster and safer (low repuncturing rate) flat changing I don’t really see much real performance benefit to either in a TT/Tri situation although super light tubular wheels sure are fun to lift and goo “ooooh light!!!” If you just want something that will make you faster and is easy to use than go clincher. If you want that little bit extra, go tubular. Me I still love tubulars but sometimes wonder why… On that note I’ve got a brand new pair of HED3 clinchers 700c 4 sale if you’re interested… $1300 shipped
Tai/Steve, I too have noticed that there are crazy good deals on year old 404s etc coming up on ebay all tubular sets. I wondered about this and had a discussion with Bryce about the pros and cons of each. My decision came down to the fact that the majority of races I do are tris whereas he does mostly TTs and hence it makes sense for me to have clinchers and he tubulars. The deciding factor for me was that I wouldn’t be as confident in racing full pelt on a freshly mounted tub if I had to put it on mid race and that most races here and that I chose are technical with fast decents of lots of turns.
Do you concur?
I use nothing but tubulars.
Training
Racing
Just Riding Along
I would use them on my MTB if I could find a decent system… looking into just making my own.
I think it’s just a better, faster, more comfortable method. There is a reason why most Pro’s still use tubies…
Do you concur?
Julian,
It’s a tough call. I to, would be a bit worried about the security of a tubular tire that I changed on the side of the road on the fly, in a race, with only the air pressure and a bit of tackiness of the glue holding it on vs. a real proper gluing job. In 15 years of racing tris on tubular tires, I NEVER flatted. The closest I came was a slow leaker that I discovered after a race. I did flat a couple of times on training rides, and just took it easy for the rest of the ride on turns with the changed tubular and made it home safe and sound.
My gut tells me that if you go tubular and you always run the best rubber you can get( Clearly, I had good luck with the Conti Competition GP’s, but the rolling resistance police here on ST despise these tires, so who knows!!), you will be OK. Your flats should be minimal.
Thanks, Steve. Seems you verified what I thought. When I get sick of swimming I’ll grab a pair of tubulars wheels for TTs and road races.