I’ll get a new Argon18 Mercury frame soon, now comes the fun part of building it. I don’t want to go in the store ane say: Dura Ace once please. I want to build a bike witch is state of the art but I don’t want to pay movie-star prices for not much in return. Here is my list, maybe I’m missing something and then it would be nice to know:
I go with Campy Chorus, since I belive that’s comparable to Dura Ace performance wise but cheaper for 10 speeds…I know I know but that’s religion.
Front D: Campy Record (that one is for looks)
chain: Record (there is only one)
Breaks: shimano 105 (I don’t see why pay more and the campys don’t have a lever to allow easy wheel exchange)
Break Levers, stem: Syntace
Seatpost: don’t know here, something cheap I guess
Head Set: chris King
Aero Bar: Oval Concepts A700 alloy
saddle: flite
wheels: Zipp front, Renn Disc rear
anything I’m missing? or something on that list that could be replaced with similar performance but cheaper or better and same price?
Well, some people might bust your chops because it is a bit of an unusual mix, but I think you did a very good of putting the money where it belongs and specing the bike very wisely. You should be a product manager.
Your observation on the brake quick releases is particularly astute. Good job. That will be a nice bike.
the Centaur cassette is basically the same as Chorus except that most of the cogs are loose. I believe the material is the same. I’d probably go with Centaur.
I’d also go with Shimano cranks and BB over Campy.
A friend of the family turned me onto the site for our coffee machines got noticed on cyclingnews today; I could not resist. Send me an e-mail michele@pinkjersey.com and I will take care of you. Campagnolo puts the QR in the lever not on the caliper creating less drag (which I am sure you will appreciate). The 105 consideration, that hurts.
That’s exactly the one problem I have with the Campy levers. I would love to put them on, just for looks if nothing else and I think I would appreciate less drag but the TT levers are not designed for flat, integreated Aerobars like Oval Concept or HED. I’m not sure about this but they might be too close to the handlebar … I will write you email…
I would do the Wipperman chain (much better AND easier to maintain than Campy) and a Thompson seatpost. You really don’t want to screw around on seatposts, and a forged seatpost like the Thompson is reasonably light, not terribly expensive, and incredibly strong.
I understand why you’re going Shimano 105 for the brakes; I don’t know that the Campy levers will work well with your Oval bars. But the Campy levers are a lot nicer than any lever on the market IF you have the correct bend in your pursuit portion of the all-in-one (which I suspect that it doesn’t), and the QR for the Campy brake lever is sooo much more eloquent than the Shimano brake-mounted QR. Spec the 105 brakes in black.
Good spec on the headset- it’s the one part that I personally think is oft-overlooked when spec’ing a bike.
If you’re using integrated, road style levers (STI/Ergo), I prefer Campy. For cranks and botom bracket, I prefer the Shimano Octalink and new Dura-Ace systems over the old-style Campy style square spindle stuff.
If you’re not using STI/Ergo (and I wouldn’t recommend it with the A700), I would just pick up an ubiquitous Ultegra triathlon grouppo as it will weigh about the same and perform just as reliably as Chorus or Record. Put that extra money into better wheels or entry fees.
And Chris King headsets are good, but so are all the other ones out there. I would go with a FSA or Cane Creek headset instead unless you’re into the “status symbol” thing.
For the price and adjustability, it’s hard to beat the Oval A700. I think that’s a really good choice.
I’ve got my P2K built up with Centaur including the brakes and I have no real problem removing the wheels from it with Dia Compe levers. Unless you go with crazy wide tires you should be ok without having a QR for the brakes. If you flat its not a problem at all as theres no air in there anyway.
Although I do not change my wheels all that often, as I only use the P2k for races and race simulation rides during the summer and in the winter I leave some beater training wheels on it.
Good points. Unfortunately I ripped a Wipperman on a red-light two years ago, the link just snapped. Maybe they are stonger now? Thompson seatpost is definitly a great value. If I have enough clearance over the end of the aero frame I might consider an earo seatpost to match the frame, that’s purely estetic I guess. What’s the best value on that, anybody knows? I saw that you can get a Felt aero seatpost for 100$, is that so?
I will consider the Campy break levers but only if they fit my pursuit bar properly. And they are 140$ and weight 35g more than a 25$ Dia Compe. Ergo sum, if the campy fit perfectly I would consider them because of beauty and a well thought QR but chances are they don’t, unfortunately. If Campy breaks, I would go with black Xenon or Mirage if I can get them seperately.
About the Head Set. I’ll probably have a Easton aero fork on the bike, and with my agressive position (78 +) I have a lot of weight on that front end. I need somethin I can really trust. I have a Cane Creek on my Giant TCR beater bike and it works fine, when I put profile clip-ons on it, the weight is too much to handle and the bike goes it’s own direction, very scarry. And yes, a King is a fashion statement, but not an expensive one.
I concur on the brakes - I have never had an issue removing the wheels on my Campy bikes - with or without air - and I never use the QR. Also, if you are considering the Centaur brakes, then get the Veloce. The weight difference is slight, the performance difference is zip.
I also agree with the Thomson seat post - they are the best. I would consider FSA cranks over the Chorus ones. I switched and think the FSA’s fit better and there is more ankle clearance.
I prefer the wipperman nickel chain. The stainless is overpriced vs the increased lifespan and stainless steel is weaker.
I can’t remember what the new chorus cranks cost but you could probably sub an FSA crankset and save some weight and probably money if you shop around. Would look better with the F der. too (could get a compact as well).