I read an article in one of the tri mag a little while back about that. Has anyone done this? With all the pain/numbness I have in my forefoot, I was thinking perhaps drilling holes thru the midsole and mount the cleat there would be a good option (exhausting my options before bunion surgery)
Also, did anyone ever order the rocket 7 with the holes drilled below like that? if i order those, i don’t want to miss the boat, they are so expensive.
I’d try drilling out the soles on one of your existing pair of shoes to try it out before ordering the R7’s like that having never tried it… Can you get the R7’s with both drillings? There’s another option that might work for you.
Steve Hogg, a Sydney-based bike fitter has done extensive research on mid-foot cleat positioning. You can see some of his responses to questions on cyclingnews.com in the Q&A section. He has spent time with a German guy who invented a new shoe for arch positioning of cleats. So far reports suggest a measurable increase in efficiency and power.
Here is a blog entry from Joe Friel. The German guy, Goetz Heine, is mentioned.
Just a general thought: try moving your cleats right back in the “normal” position and see how this affects your cycling. Just in case moving it right back could be too much of a change, this might let you know.
Speedplay now markets their own sole adapter to allow a more rearward cleat placement. WAY cheaper than Steve Hoggs custom ones–and available directly from Speedplay without having to order from Australia (unless you are in Aus).
About halfway down the page on this link–ALUMINUM FORE-AFT EXTENDER BASE PLATE KIT
The BIG question is this: What’s Dan think about all of this? Has he ever discussed this rather radical departure from his “one-third back” rule he teaches in the FIST clinics? What say you, oh wise one?
I fixed a similiar foot problem by moving the cleats further back, but the mid sole theory was designed for a proposed mechanical advantage, not to cure a numbness problem, so it’s probably a hit and miss if it will solve the problem.
Don’t overlook a possible obvious cause - a shoe that is too tight or socks that are too thick. Check them out first.
FWIW, I modified a set of Time cleats to be moved 3/8" further back than the maximum stock cleat position. Tried them on a couple TT’s, and lost 5-10 rpms of cadence. The sensation was to mash instead of spin. After 40k my legs were shot, and I was maybe a minute off my average for the conditions. I was bummed, as I had high hopes for this experiment. It seems like a good idea, but isn’t for me. I do have my OEM cleats back somewhat, but not to the point that it hinders my spin (95-100rpm). Your results may vary, and I would try this before dropping several hundred samolians on new shoes. Good luck.
The BIG question is this: What’s Dan think about all of this? Has he ever discussed this rather radical departure from his “one-third back” rule he teaches in the FIST clinics? What say you, oh wise one?
I would love to get Dan’s opinion on this! And yes, tried different shoes/cleats/socks/name it…
Dr. Arnie Baker, a competitive cyclist, a respected authority on cycling and head of the Colorado Spring Sports Training Center has recently said that mid sole cleat placement for cyclists who are not experiencing leg or knee issues is not recommended. In his experience as a treating physician it leads to more problems than it “fixes.” It is recommended only as a possible treatment for relief of specific pedaling/knee issues.
oh thanks. I wonder what the reasonning is behind the comments. I am interested in reading more about how it affects biomechanics and joint/muscle loading, did he write an article?
In my case, i am having foot pain, I am trying to allieviate forefoot loading/compression of digital nerve and offsetting pressure on first metatarsal. But i am also interested in understand cleat position/lacement and mechanics a lot more, especially since it does relate to a l ot of my cyclist patients who come in with all kinds of biomechanical/soft tissues injuries.
I drilled holes with a dremel and carved out a place inside the shoe (about 3 hours work) and got two shimano spd cleats mounted perfecfly and as far inside my nike shoes as i could get. In the end my shoes rubbed on my ultegra 6600 crank. if felt good except for that part.