Me and my SRM are rapidly falling out

Guys I need some wise words. Ever since I purchased an SRM at the start of 2014 it has been performing erratically. There are periods where it is great, then there are times where it really is not.

For every travel I make it seemingly effects the way it transmits data, if at all. It is almost guaranteed that every race I have done this year bar one, the power data has been erratic or non-existent when I hop on it at the mount line. Even it seems loading my bike into a car and pulling it out in a new location does something totally unexplainable to the system. It’s a pretty expensive piece of kit which quite honestly I am not overjoyed with at the moment. Does anyone have any wise words or things that could be so obvious which I am not doing. I am using the system with a Joule GPS computer, I have this set on Auto Zero but also manual zero the system. The system could run OK for weeks then out of the blue could just drop power or not operate correctly. The magnet is bonded to the frame and as it has periods where it reads well, makes me think this isn’t an issue with the magnet positioning

I’d love feedback, suggestions and possibilities. I have had this system since the start of '14. It’s a wireless Shimano 9000 system.

Is it possible that the Joule GPS doesn’t play well with the SRM? Is the firmware on the Joule updated? Maybe you can do some searching and see if that headunit combo doesn’t work well?

In general, you don’t want to use auto-zero with SRMs, so I would turn that off and manually zero before your rides and see if that helps. If that doesn’t help and you find that others get good results with the Joule+SRM, maybe send the SRM back for repair?

Thanks. I’ll do some digging, from what I have read so far there has been a solid amount of use with Joule+SRM. The firmware of the Joule it could be.

That last sentence I was hoping wouldn’t be brought up, but let’s see what develops.

See if you can borrow someone’s Garmin 500 and try it out with the SRM. I had countless problems trying to use a wireless SRM with a Joule. The folks at Saris kept telling me that it wasn’t the Joule that was causing the problems. Yet, when I finally switched to a Garmin 500, all of the problems all went away. No dropouts, no loss of calibration mid-ride, and no corrupt files – all of which were problems when I used the Joule.

Eileen, this is interesting. Thank you.

Eileen, this is interesting. Thank you.

If you do get a Garmin eventually, get a 510 or higher so that you can turn autozero off if you want to (and you want to)

Eileen, this is interesting. Thank you.

If you do get a Garmin eventually, get a 510 or higher so that you can turn autozero off if you want to (and you want to)

Or better still, use an SRM Powercontrol.

Eileen, this is interesting. Thank you.

If you do get a Garmin eventually, get a 510 or higher so that you can turn autozero off if you want to (and you want to)

Or better still, use an SRM Powercontrol.

Money no object, yes, that would be the best choice, and really you should consider it, even if money is an object!

I actually have a PC7, it could be a girl thing but I do like having GPS. I know it isn’t essential but it’s a nice addition, have used Powertap/CycleOps for 8 years it’s kind of hard to let go of something that has worked so well.

Well then you can at least test whether it’s the crank or the Joule. And take corrective action where needed =)

Btw, when is the last time you had the battery in the crank replaced, and how many miles has the crank been ridden since?

Pop the pc7 on there and see how it goes? I’m betting it’s the Joule.

I had one of the first generation joule 2.0s and it was a pile of shit, I practically gave it away when I sold it. It was dropping constantly even riding a trainer.

The PC8 is due out any time now and is going to have GPS, get that and never look back.

Eileen, this is interesting. Thank you.

If you do get a Garmin eventually, get a 510 or higher so that you can turn autozero off if you want to (and you want to)

Or better still, use an SRM Powercontrol.

Money no object, yes, that would be the best choice, and really you should consider it, even if money is an object!

i only recommend the power control when people value a head unit that never drops data/has no corrupt files/always records so you never wind up seeing data during a race or event only to realize start/stop was never pressed. (some of these are rare for garmins, but they should not happen at all.)

My Joule (1.0) has lots of bugs, e.g., it resets the date to 2011-01-01 almost every other week.
Last week it (again) reset the ride data (and the date) when I pressed the interval button – 20 minutes of riding lost. Not much fun; I wouldn’t use it with the SRM.
The only problem I have with the PC7 is that the clock is a bit slow… (losing one minute per month?).

Guys I need some wise words. Ever since I purchased an SRM at the start of 2014 it has been performing erratically. There are periods where it is great, then there are times where it really is not.

For every travel I make it seemingly effects the way it transmits data, if at all. It is almost guaranteed that every race I have done this year bar one, the power data has been erratic or non-existent when I hop on it at the mount line. Even it seems loading my bike into a car and pulling it out in a new location does something totally unexplainable to the system. It’s a pretty expensive piece of kit which quite honestly I am not overjoyed with at the moment. Does anyone have any wise words or things that could be so obvious which I am not doing. I am using the system with a Joule GPS computer, I have this set on Auto Zero but also manual zero the system. The system could run OK for weeks then out of the blue could just drop power or not operate correctly. The magnet is bonded to the frame and as it has periods where it reads well, makes me think this isn’t an issue with the magnet positioning

I’d love feedback, suggestions and possibilities. I have had this system since the start of '14. It’s a wireless Shimano 9000 system.

So let me get this straight, you bought your own SRM? WTF kind of company is this? They sponsor a convicted doper like Weiss, yet a well spoken, drug free, former Olympian, who lets be honest is pretty hot, can’t get a free SRM? There’s something wrong with this world.

As others suggested try a different head unit. Honestly the folks at SRM have been super easy to deal with with very fast turnaround times. I bought one end of 2013 and it is rock solid.

Also for those who want a power control 7, they sell refurbished ones with a warranty for 250. Not bad considering it is incredibly reliable.

Yeah, I would just use the PC7 until the Pc8 with gps is out. Data integrity is paramount. GPS is just for fun. Especially for someone at your level.

I actually have a PC7, it could be a girl thing but I do like having GPS. I know it isn’t essential but it’s a nice addition, have used Powertap/CycleOps for 8 years it’s kind of hard to let go of something that has worked so well.

Hi Helle

I had similar issues with my SRM Dura Ace Wireless with PC7 for the first 2 years of its life.

I am getting fall-outs or zero’s whenever I am anywhere near another power meter, especially Quarqs. I know this should not be possible, but in this case it definitely is.

Same thing if I turn on Power on my Garmin 910xt, I get false data on my PC7. Eventually I solved this by only using PC7 and not even wear my 910xt on the bike anymore.

Hope this could be a solution that works for you too.

Cheers - Thomas

Thank you for all your input guys. Unfortunately it seems that the issue is in fact with the Joule GPS. That is a shame as it is a great computer and PowerTap/Cyclops have been great to me over the years. In the couple of rides I have taken with the PC7 the watts seems to be OK, of course no sign yet over a longer term but there was an instant change when I changed head unit.

Not sure why I hadn’t tried this before. Thanks again, great help.

any issues out there with SRM paired with a Garmin device?