At long last, my LBS has some Mavic Wintech’s in stock. I’m starting to have some second thoughts, however, on whether this is the direction that I want to go based on some comments I’ve read here. So, I wanted to get some additional feedback from people that are using this computer.
People have stated that the quick-release sensor won’t work with a H3 front wheel because you can’t get the sensor close enough to the magnet on the wheel. Has anyone gotten the Wintech to work on a H3? I haven’t bought a H3 yet, but that was the direction I was leaning towards. If this doesn’t work, I’ll have to re-assess whether to go with a different computer, or a different wheel like a Zipp 404 (or the new Renn front? Frank??)
Has anyone been able to mount the cadence sensor on the chainstay (specifically on a P3) and is it powerful enough to reach the computer from there? I don’t see how to mount the cadence sensor on the curved seattube on a P3, so it would have to be on the chainstay.
General impressions with the computer? Other recommendations?
My general requirement is a wireless computer with wireless cadence (I really despise the thought of running a wire up the downtube of my P3). The clean sensor on the skewer makes the Wintech attractive, but I could live with a fork-mounted wireless sensor if there’s a distinct advantage to doing so.
I have had an H3 wheel and the Wintech for about 2 months. I have yet to make it work with the h3. Looks like the magnet is just too far away from the sensor to work properly
Also have Hed Alps works flawlessly with that wheel.Overall really like the system.
Can’t comment on cadence sensor.
If you figure out a fix please post.
I’m rethinking my computer situation for my P3 this year as well. Last year I used the Polar 720i and no matter what, at some point during a race, it would crap out on me. This year I want to use the 720i just for the HRM and have a seperate computer. Guess I don’t really need the 720i then… Anyway, I’d like to get the sensor on the back wheel. But, I have heard that that would be too far away from the computer. Would love to hear how others have set up their computers!
i’m running a 710i on my road bike with speed and cadence, but the only way I can get it to work with cadence is to take the watch off my wrist and mount it on the handlebar mount. For the tri bike I didn’t want to have to do that, so I was going to do like you say and just use the 710 as an HRM and have a separate computer for speed and cadence.
For both you guys running Polar S700 series watches.
CRANK UP TO POWER ON THE TRANSMITTERS TO 11 as they said in Spinal Tap.
Cadance transmitter comes factory set to Med power and Speed comes set to low. I currently have my speed sensor on my back wheel and I get speed reading even if I’m on aero bars. I would lose cadance if I put my hands on bullhorn when it was on med power, no longer an issue.
Open up the sensor and move jumper onto the two pins closest to edge of circuit card. Might as well replace battery to. Battery life is reduced but not so significantly that you would be replacing bats more often than you probably already are.
Search either threads on below forum for more info: