Lets talk mountain bikes - 29 inch wheels and components

Triathlon Forum
1

I haven’t ridden a mountain bike in about 20 years, but I’m in the market for one now.

What’s the pros/cons of the 29 inch wheels. From what I’ve read it’s easier climbing for a trade-off in handling and heavier?

Also, I’ve been looking at some local shops and am totally confused on the components. What are the different levels? Are there equivalents to utlegra and/or sram force? Any major differences like the sram/shimano shifting on a road bike?

Coiled or air shocks? seems the coiled is more expensive, but everyone I talk to likes the air shocks better.

Do people use the slime in the tires? Are tubeless tires like tubulars for road?

I thought I was settled on a Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, because the guy at the bike shop steered me away from 29ers. But now I’m not sure I shouldn’t look into those more…

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Not plugged into the latest, but 29ers are a little HARDER to climb with, but roll better on flats and down.

Tubless MTB tires are like tubeless road tires…no tubes, tire just forma a seal with the (special) rim.

Air shocks are lighter (the choice of XC racers), you’ll find coils on enduro and longer-travel designs.

if you are > roughly 5’10" then 29er is a viable option, and a matter of choice, if you are much taller yet, 29ers fit better.

Sram/Shimano, they both shift, but if have any specific issues with your hands, SRAM offers twist shifters as well as the “rapidfire” type.

3

I got a Redline 29er - thing is a freaking blast. I just need to install disk brakes and I am set.

I already put on a King headset and carbon bar…no way I would go back to 26"

4

I’m 6’0 and Ive been on a 29er since January. My Niner EMD9 outclimbs my GT Zaskar every time. More traction, better handling and rolls over roots and rocks. Much better even though it’s two lbs heavier. I think some of the bad things said about 29er’s come from the fact that some of the early steel one’s (I know; steel is real)were really heavy, with heavy wheels and tires. Nice light weight wheels and tires make the bike out perform a 26er in almost every way. The others it’s a wash.

I’m a New Yorker so let me tell you about downhills ‘‘Fagetaboutit!’’

5

There was an article this week in either velonews or cyclingnews about how the 26" hardtail is dead (replaced with either a 29er or a 26" FS XC rig).

But, it really depends what type of riding you will do and what you’re looking for out of the bike…

I have not ridden a 29er, but I love my SC Blur (FS). If I was in the market for a 29er I would go to a demo day to figure out if it was right for me. If you are into a XC type rig, and you are not in the cheap bike section, weight will not be an issue, (I am way faster with a 25# blur then I was with a 20# Kestrel). You would likely not buy a TT bike without riding it, you should not buy a MTB without a ride (on dirt).

Components, Shimano XT would be equivalent to Ultegra and LX equivalent to 105. Not too much difference between the two. Unless you are really, really good, or rich, I would not recommend XTR. IME it is more difficult to keep in adjustment, not sure why… On the SRAM side, X0 is like Red (actually they just came out with XX which I think is even higher), X9 is like Force, and X7 is like 105. Again, I would give them (shimano/sram) both a ride. I really like the integrated shifter/brakes on shimano, but some people hate them, you should really ride to decide, and shimano has both trigger like SRAM and old Shimano and integrated. Also, I prefer hydraulic discs…

Unless you are doing free ride/downhill, you will not/should not get a coil shock.

Tubeless tires are recommended IMO. You can either get true tubeless rims and tires, or use Stans to convert conventional rims/tires to tubeless (I have not done this). I have Crossmaxs (tubeless) with slime, just in case of a puncture. FWIW I’ve gone 2+ seasons without a flat…

Gary fisher also has 29ers (http://www.velonews.com/article/95537). If you’re in the $1500 price range, a good FS rig is probably not in the cards, and I think that a 29er would be a bit more than 1500… I think that the specialized’s are the best entry level FS XC rigs out there (value) something like the FSR XC, the Giants also look nice for the money. I’ve never looked at 29ers, so I’m not much help there.

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Gary Fisher Hi Fi Pro with tubeless tires!

7

What’s the pros/cons of the 29 inch wheels. From what I’ve read it’s easier climbing for a trade-off in handling and heavier?

I have ridden 29’ers quite a bit including in a team 24 hour event, but prefer 26" FS, 29’ers are great on smooth, flowing trails, but I found technical climbing lacking, its harder to pop up the front wheel due to the long wheelbase. It should be noted I am 5’6", for tall riders the longer chainstays would be less of an issue and it may be better. Its also hard to get a decent handlebar height with a suspension fork if you are short of leg. Its a valid choice, try it yourself and decide. I think 650B is the way forward for FS bikes.

Also, I’ve been looking at some local shops and am totally confused on the components. What are the different levels? Are there equivalents to utlegra and/or sram force? Any major differences like the sram/shimano shifting on a road bike?

DuraAce = XTR, Ultegra = XT, 105 = SLX, XX=Red, XO = Force, X9 = Rival

Coiled or air shocks? seems the coiled is more expensive, but everyone I talk to likes the air shocks better.

Depends on the application. Coils are more supple on small bumps due to their lack of stiction as they dont have to have tight air seals. They are heavier and you have to change the spring to change the spring rate instead of simply adjusting air pressure. You see coil mainly on downhill/freeride bikes (and some cheap FS bikes) All XC bikes run air shocks.

Do people use the slime in the tires? Are tubeless tires like tubulars for road?

Some run slime in tubes, but its heavy. There are MTB tubulars, but its uncommon outside of world cup racing. A tubeless tire uses a bead like a standard clincher but no tube. There are two common ways, one is to use a special rim and tire (UST) where the tire has a coating of rubber and a thicker bead to seal air. It can be aired up fairly easily, but often requires a latex based sealant to avoid slow leaks from thorns and other small punctures. A common solution with racers (my choice) is a tubeless conversion of a standard tire. You either use a rubber rim strip, or a specific rim (No-tubes) and seal a standard tire tubeless with sealant. It requires a compressor to set it up, but it is much lighter than a UST tubeless system or tire + tube and as long as you replenish sealant regularly its flat resistant. The benefits to tubeless are being able to run lower pressure for increased traction, better cornering, a more comfortable ride and lower rolling resistance. Off road lower RR comes from running lower pressures allowing the tire to conform to the ground rather than bouncing over it. I will usually run 26 front, 28 rear.

hope this helps

Kevin

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29’ers is the only way to go, the weight thing is no longer an issue and 29 inch hard tails weigh 20 lbs with tweaking. Mine weighs 22lbs, in XL and I could drop more weight. So, weight is no longer a problem. The other complaint was acceleration, because of the bigger, heavier wheels, but these days they weigh only slightly more that 26’er wheels. Lastly, as others have said, they simply roll and handle better.

As for Slime, tubeless wheels by notubes.com is the option I belive you may be thinking of.

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I have a steel 29er hardtail, it is a 21" frame and weighs 24.7 pounds, that bike is sweet, climbs great.

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I have ridden mostly MTB for a long time and have ridden both the 26 and 29er. Hands down the 29er is the better bike. Climbs great, gets over more, uses less energy (except for weight). Does take some getting used to the handling but if you haven’t been riding a 26 you won’t know any different. I ride a GF superfly and would suggest something entry level like the GF Cobia.

Also very surprised the bike shop was steering you the other way. Not many true MTBers would say go with the 26 if they have ridden a 29er.

One tip for 29ers if you are under 5’10 get the smaller size bike. For example i’m 5’8 and have to ride a 15.5inch Gary fisher, but on a 26 I ride a 16.5.

But look at it like this had you rather run over a rock in the road with a skate board or a truck? Wheel size matters!