I learned a few things from Peter at vechios here in boulder, he’s the man. Thought I share, it’s good to know I think…
Campy bar-end shifters have many ways to be assembled and sort of work but only when put together exactly the right way, they shift like butter. There are litle o-rings in there that have to be placed exactly right and not 180 degree out, otherwise the shifting isn’t good…Some of the parts arn’t obvious that it makes a difference but it does!
Especially with carbon seatposts, which dend to slip, you can turn the seatpost clamp around 180 Degrees, it will hold the seatpost much better with less torque on the screw, the load is distributed more evenly that way.
I have my first tubular wheelset and mounted my vittorias acording to many posts on this forum and instructions from zipp.com and tufo.com. If you do it like described, there is no way they come off easily again, in contrary to some posts on this forum. It took me 20 minutes of pulling and swearing before they came off. If you leave 5cm of glueless, then it would be easy but I don’t believe it would be safe, after all glue is there to hold the tire on the rime, right? The only duable way in race is, take a razor-blade and cut the dead tire off (that tip is from someone on this forum, great!).
on Zipp-like deep rim tubular wheels, don’t use the valfe extenders that usually come standard with the wheels, they suck. It’s hard to pump up without everything leaking out on the side and with one or two CO2 bombs in a race that sucks! Buy tubies that have exchangable walves and screw long walves inside. I love my new Velomax TempestII tubular wheels and have almost nothing bad to say about them but for a set of wheels at over 1k$ it seems cheap to get those non-working extenders, not good!
Vecchio’s is one of the finest shops in the world- no exageration. They are the authorities on many high end maintenance issues.
Among their guys is Jim Potter- a great cyclist and mechanic. I had the pleasure of working with Jim many yeas ago and learned a great deal from him. He is a pro.
I wonder why more people aren’t talkng about Vecchio’s… That place is awesome- however you spell it.
I learned a few things from Peter at vechios here in boulder, he’s the man. Thought I share, it’s good to know I think…
Campy bar-end shifters have many ways to be assembled and sort of work but only when put together exactly the right way, they shift like butter. There are litle o-rings in there that have to be placed exactly right and not 180 degree out, otherwise the shifting isn’t good…Some of the parts arn’t obvious that it makes a difference but it does!
I am quite curious about that. I have taken mine apart many times…never really seen an up or down to most things, others it is obvious. I just took another look at page 58 of the Campy spare parts guide…seems to confirm…so do you mean that when and if you take apart a Campy shifter…make sure you put it back together right? There really is no trick to this. Do you know what O-Ring gets mixed up?
What I think he is talking about is with Campy 10sp bar-ends. If the shifter is not aligned properly it will skip two cogs with one click somewhere in the cassette no matter what. Without the cover, when looking at the outboard side of the shifter you will see a little triangle/arrow on the indexing gear. When setting the shifter up, you must align this arrow with the shifter, and they both must be oriented properly. In other words if mounting to your aero bars and the bars ends are straight out (parallel with the ground), the lever should be perpendicular to the ground pointing up as should the little arrow, when you put in the cable. Then you push the shifter all the way down (what would be the 11t cog), insert the cable and attach to the rear derailleur. Adjust shifting from there.
on Zipp-like deep rim tubular wheels, don’t use the valfe extenders that usually come standard with the wheels, they suck. It’s hard to pump up without everything leaking out on the side and with one or two CO2 bombs in a race that sucks! Buy tubies that have exchangable walves and screw long walves inside. I love my new Velomax TempestII tubular wheels and have almost nothing bad to say about them but for a set of wheels at over 1k$ it seems cheap to get those non-working extenders, not good!
you can get the zipp extenders to work if you put some plumber’s teflon tape (white) where the extender screws in beforehand (tape on the valve, not on the extender obv), once you unscrew the extender the tape stays on the valve and provides the seal whenever you screw it on again.