Anybody got a link to a Kuota review ? Preferably something more than just talking about Stadler riding it to win Kona last year. Appreciate any directions or comments from somebody that actually has one. thanks.
Follow the link below for a pretty good review. I have just bought one and am very happy with it so far - fast and very comfortable. I will post a picture when I get a chance.
http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/default.asp?pg=fullstory&id=2578
Tommo
Do you have specific questions? I’ve had mine about 4 months, done 2 tris (1/2 IM, IM) and a half dozen 20km TTs. I really, really love the ride, the bike fits great (I have a really short upper body, and most bikes have too long of a top tube for me). I’m 5’11’, I have a medium frame, short stem, seat post all the way out, a modest drop to the pads for tris, and a much more aggressive drop for TT’s. I’m running a Zipp 909 wheelset, DA, and a FSA crank. My setup is very light, handles well and is stable at high speed (I rode my aerobars +50mph at IMLP, and didn’t feel even the slightest shimmy. Stiff in the bottom bracket area, with no mushy feel when I get out the saddle to climb. Because of the low weight compared to my other TT bike (Zipp 2001) I can ride aero on hills that I wouldn’t have had a prayer of riding with the Zipp.
The only negative I can even think of is that it doesn’t have internally routed cables - however, given the problems I’ve had on other bikes with internally routed cables, that my not be a negative at all.
The website review above is pretty glowing, but I happen to agree with it. I am very pleased. Great clear coat on the finish too - haven’t even had a nick yet.
tommo, appreciate the link to review, interesting that is dated before Stadler last year.
VM, yea, here’s my specifics, although you already touched on both. Sounds like we are opposites in terms of torso length, i’m 6’2 and long-waisted, so i am more comfortable on a longer top tube. Kinda be between sizes (L & XL) based on the Kalibur charts. Also am concerned about handling, assume you’re getting your good performance with their fork that is what, a 43 ? The high-end stability is something i’m really tired of fighting, got to get rid of that descending shimmey. I’m also with you on the cables, that aint what i’m looking for. Sounds like it really working for you, which is where i need to get to.
No shimmies at all, not even a hint. It also has a short head tube, which tightens up the main triangle. When you combine that with a really stiff bb area, it just doesn’t shimmy. On the other hand, it’s a really smooth ride. I put about 20 miles on a Lucero before I picked the Kaliber - the Lucero is even smoother, but not as stiff in my opinion. Either way, they are both great bikes - the Kaliber felt like a sports car - little more quick handling and stiffer, the Lucero felt like a high-end Mercedes - smooth, smooth, smooth.
I’m not sure what you are riding now, but you may need to pay close attention to stems if you haven’t ridden a bike with a really short top tube. The drop with a 0-10 degree stem was perfect for timetrialing for me, but it was too low for a tri where I actually had to ingest food and water (remember, my seat post is fully extended) - Disney 1/2 was my first race, and I blew chow at the 40 mile mark. I had to go to a 40 degree stem for tris, and had the best bike ride of my life at Lake Placid. I flip on the 0 degree stem for sprints or TTs, but for the longer stuff I’ll prop the front end up a bit. As it turns out, I’m not convinced the lower position is any faster - I’ll have to do some more comparisons before I get a feel for that.
I agree with your comment about internal cable routing, I had a P3 and am now riding a Lucero, although the internal cable routing is clean and tidy I’d prefer external just for ease of changeout and maintenance. The little bit of aero advantage is negligible to me.
VM, I also have a Kalibur but I’m not happy with it at all!!! I have DA 9 speed on it and I have to ride in a really big gear to get the drive train lined up, if I don’t it sounds and feels like I’m dragging a bunch of pop cans behind me…The boys at Bikesport has tried just about everything to solve this problem without any luck. what components do you have on your ride? Tom is switching out the frame for a P3C(if it every gets here) for me. When I do ride it in the big gears it is very responsive and smooth. Any thoughts?
I wouldn’t put too much behind the reviews on the pez site. The author, while entertaining, I don’t think has written a bad review for anything. I’m sure someone here will prove me wrong, but it’ll be a 1:75 ratio.
VM, I also have a Kalibur but I’m not happy with it at all!!! I have DA 9 speed on it and I have to ride in a really big gear to get the drive train lined up, if I don’t it sounds and feels like I’m dragging a bunch of pop cans behind me…The boys at Bikesport has tried just about everything to solve this problem without any luck. what components do you have on your ride? Tom is switching out the frame for a P3C(if it every gets here) for me. When I do ride it in the big gears it is very responsive and smooth. Any thoughts?
Wow, I’ve never had the slightest problem with shifting - what kind of crank do you have. I have an FSA with an EXO bottom bracket. It’s very streamlined (low Q factor I’m guessing). The chainrings ride close to the frame. Do you have a DA crank by chance? Has Bikesport tried a different crank? If not, maybe they could try that before swapping everything over to a P3C. I hate the way the P3s are sized, and the top tubes are WAY too long for me to get a decent setup. You might fit it better though
I have a DA 172 with a Ultagra BB, we tried different chain rings but not different cranks. I have been waiting on a 54 P3C for a long time but last week Tom mentioned that after doing some measurements on the 51 that would be a better fit. I really don’t know what to do at this point. Are you running 9 or 10 speed and also do you think that would make a difference?
I have DA 9 speed on mine and have never had any probelms either. STRANGE!!!
are you running full DA 9 speed? They seem to think that there something wrong with the frame. even Super Dave has worked on it.
Hmmmm, I can’t see why chainrings would matter. I think you have 2 options. Have them put on a different crank/bottom bracket - maybe a different brand like my FSA. It’s still screwy, then it’s got to be the frame - why not switch everything over to a different Kaliber frame? Either way, it’s a couple hour ordeal. A whole lot better than waiting for a P3C, and then still not knowing if that’s going to fit you right.
I have an Ultegra cassette on my training wheels but apart from that yes full DA 9 speed. I can’t fault the bike at all to be honest.
Tommo
Pez once provided the glorious tidbit of wisdom that “higher psi is better because harder surfaces roll faster!” Their big dig against the Zipp tubulars was that they ONLY inflated to 140 psi, whereas other tires in the price range inflate to 220! He did comment on how “smooth” the Zipps rode… Funny, they don’t seem to put two and two together on that one…