While doing a careful pre-Kona inspection on my wife’s bike, I was dismayed to find two side plates on her 9 speed stainless Wipperman chained cracked radially from the rivet outward. Obviously today was a much better time to find them than on the climb up to Hawi. The chain has been very well cared for with ~ 1000 miles on it. I’m mounting a new Sram 990 as a replacement.
Hope you all have a great race on the 15th,
SciGuy
sciguy,
I don’t know how common this is, but I have broken 3 or 4 chains in the 10+ years I have ridden a bicycle seriously, 3,500-5,000 miles/yr.
I have pretty much used Sram chains during this time and still do but now I am also using Campy 10 speed on my time trial bike so I can use any of my wheel sets without drive train problems (chain jumping) and Wipperman because of using an American Classic conversion cassette on a Hed3 trispoke.
On one occasion I broke an Sram chain after what seemed like a very short time (less than 1,000 miles). I took it to my bike shop to see if this might be symptomatic of some other problem that I was not aware of. At the bike shop and after more closely inspecting the chain, I discovered that besides the broken link, there were numerous side plates that were cracking radially from the rivets outward and there was one that appeared to have broken but not failed yet (was racing to beat the failed link?).
My LBS said there must have been a manufacturing issue with that chain or side plate batch. They wanted to send the chain back to Sram and replaced my chain on the spot no charge.
Unless your wife generates oodles of watts and climbs lots of hills out of the saddle stomping the peddles while simultaneously pulling up on the opposite peddle, I would say there was some kind of a manufacturing defect with this chain. Your LBS should have an interest in returning this chain to the manufacturer because of such issues after so short a time. They most likely will replace it for you.
As for the stainless steel version versus the standard version, I really am not aware of any significant longer life of one versus the other. Primarily, the difference is the resistance of the stainless version to rust (wet conditions) over the standard version. And a significant difference in price.
I thought Wipperman or SRAM were the chains to have? I was just about to replace a well-worn Dura-Ace chain and casette with my first SRAM casette and chain, should I just stick with Shimano?
SwBkRn44,
I did not mean to imply that one should have less confidence in these chains. I still use SRAM chains as my primary chains. I also use Wipperman chains.
I think the quick links are the way to go.
I wouldn’t hesitate to replace a Shimano chain with a SRAM or Wipperman. In fact, if it were me, I would insist on doing it. I can’t stand all the crap with the “:special” pin that can only be used once. Forget that crap!
How about the SRAM cassettes, seem reasonably priced and get good reviews, does everyone agree?
Maybe I am all wet, but there have been a few reports here of failures like this with stainless steel chains. I don’t use them. I go with the nickel chains instead. They are cheaper, though more subject to rust.
I have never had a chain rust problem, so no biggie there. I wonder if the stainless steel is a harder material and more subject to cracking as a result.
Of course, I put out like no power so I have never broken any kind of chain, so the above may be worth exactly what you paid for it.
I wonder if the stainless steel is a harder material and more subject to cracking as a result.
It gets worked-hardened very easily and becomes brittle. In some applications, it’s hella strong; in others, it’s a bad choice.
My Wipperman snapped on me 40 miles from home one day. I’ve been running SRAM chains for two years now on my tri bike and they (2 of them) have worked nicely.
I have probably used a dozen nickel Wipperman chains over the years with zero problems.
No need to brag about snapping chains Rick, we already know you are a stud.
My wife claims that it must have been the tremendous power that her 115 pound frAme generates;) I’m a bit skeptical about that being the real cause. The Sram chain is shifting great. Now if I could get the darn Durace 9 speed bar end to center like it use to we would be completely good to go.
SciGuy
Wow, a local guy just posted breaking his wipperman on the www.mcf.net website. He also had several cracked areas. He thought it to be related to winter riding.
Could the fracture have to do with how the chain was installed? Shimano seems to think one method of installation is stronger than another (See: http://tinyurl.com/d5q37)
Read lots of DA chains breaking? I have never broken one. Replace every 5K even if there is no “stretch” as they aren’t too expensive. The little pin is dumb, but who am I to argue w/ Shimano engineers and experience over the past 50 years or so.
I think the sram cassettes absolutely rock–and the 12-26 seems like a cleaner fit to the Dura ace rear d (the 27 is really noisy); and, you can’t beat the price.
I remember reading an article on biketechreview.com r.e. Wipperman chains breaking. I’ve broken one chain in my life–and it was a fancy Wipperman stainless–all 62Kg’s of me.
Breaking a chain isn’t an experience I’d like to have again.
So how come we never hear about a shimano chain breaking? (or does nobody report it?)
All I see on this site is about wipperman breaking, and now also SRAM.
I have run shimano for the 21 yrs of riding, and never broke one. I’m 175 lbs. fit and up to 185 when starting up a season.
Could the fracture have to do with how the chain was installed? Shimano seems to think one method of installation is stronger than another (See: http://tinyurl.com/d5q37)
Bob,
Wipperman uses a Connex link that resembles the Sram connector link. The cracks were in plates located in other parts of the chain not the connector. Many folks substitute the Scram connector to put their Durace chains together. I prefer to clean the chain off the bike so the Sram type connector is great for me. I never have had faith in the Durace method.
SciGuy
I think the installation process affects the strength of the entire chain and not just the connector. The connection process includes: when a mechanic is facing the right side of the bike and looking at the bottom length of chain after it has gone around the chain rings, he should have the widest part of the link on his right and connect it with the narrowest part of the link on the left.
Just as a data point, how was the chain that broke connected?
Interesting…I have about 6000 miles on my current 10X1 Wipperman chain. I’ll have to de-link it and degrease it and take a look at all the links. I do some occasional 60rpm stomping with one leg, pulling hard with the other, so I guess I could be “at risk” also. My race chain only has about 300 miles on it though…hopefully it’ll be fine!
I had a fairly new stainless Whipperman chain break on me too. On the climb up from Haleiwa Town towards Schofield Barracks. Upon inspection I found two other links (not the connecting link) that had cracks such as you describe. Local bike shop “rebuilt” my chain with spare section they had laying about. I haven’t done much riding since then so cannot say if rebuilt chain will work. I really do like the ease of taking the chain off the bike to clean it. I personally put the reason for chain failure down as my excessive bulk 
At 240lbs I put a lot of stress on my bike and its drive train. Ha.
I’ve also had a Wipperman stainless break on me prematurely.
“I was dismayed to find two side plates on her 9 speed stainless Wipperman chained”
wippermann hasn’t entirely perfected the stainless chain, at least not to my satisfaction. neither i nor anyone i’ve ever heard of have ever broken or had any problem with the nickel chain (which is cheaper). i’m a big fan of the wippermann nickel chain, it’s the only chain i ride. i’m a future fan of the stainless chain, but i’m not convinced yet that it’s ready for prime time.