Solid training wheels are a must have. I wouldn’t opt for a semi-training-semi-racing wheel. To me that would go in the same category as all those multifunctional gadgets that can do alot, just not excell at it. That said, I’ve had experience with several different wheels and the rear wheel often became out of true.
Then I spoke to Rich at Wheelbuilder.com and he built me a Velocity Deep V around my Powertap SL (28 spoke count) and problems with rear wheels are now part of the past. I cannot be more happy with that wheel. Velocity deep V rock! I don’t have any experience with Mavix Open Pro’s but those seem to have have a very good reputation as well.
Are you sure your front wheel is in the right direction? The hed stickers on my wheels (front and back) are readable only when the sticker spoke is at 9 o’ clock, not 6. Just wondering.
i use my Dura-Ace 7500 all the time as soon as the roads are clean. i live in Bend, Or. and they put down cinders for the snow. so as soon as May i use the Dura-ace all the time on my road bike. i also use Spinergy Rev-x’s on my TT bike and i have slammed them in to a pot hole in a group ride and it did nothing to them! not even a flat.
I got my wheelcover last week and have it mounted. Looks cool. Now for the front wheel. I have done lots of reading here about his and wonder what people think of the old Campy Shamal for the front wheel with my disc cover. Not much left in the budget for this and my friend has a front that I can borrow and basically just have. Right now, I have the Ritchey 30mm 16 bladed spoke wheel still on the front. Would this wheel be a worthwhile upgrade given not immediate cost and pretty cheap if he sold it to me?
"what people think of the old Campy Shamal for the front wheel "
I’ve used Campy Shamal fronts in both 650 and 700 and have nothing but praise for them. It’s really a shame they stopped making them. They’re heavier than today’s carbon race wheels but I found them to be near indestructable. They always seemed faster than my 60mm Heds and were much less affected by cross winds.
The one you really want is the 12 HPW Titanium version.
The Shamals are a touch heavier, but like cerveloguy says, they’re rock solid. Friend of mine hit a car, cracked my fork and twisted my frame but the Shamals just went slightly out of true. Also, those hubs are to die for - they’re a bit slower going uphill but I love 'em going down.
As for all arounds, I frequently skip putting on the Shamals in favor of keeping on my Easton/Velomax Circuits 30mm, fast, silent and fairly strong as well. (Although they didn’t fair as well when I got t-boned by a car.)
Thanks. I have received a lot of good responses, but maybe I have not been clear enough. Next year I plan on buying a Tri bike. Currently I ride a Klein. Have Bontrager race lites. 8000 miles of bomb proof wheels. If I buy a tri bike it will probably be my last purchase for years. I have noticed that on many new tri bikes the wheels are not the greatest. If I purchase a Qaliente for example I would like to have a nice set of wheels…but not ones I would only ride 4 times a year. $700 U.S. Am 180lbs and 6hr IM time. Probably between splitting time on bikes 1500 miles per year. So not knowing much,invest in record hubs on a regular wheel? Kysriums seem to be hot a few years ago? Or go aero? Thanks for your time Kenney
Dude - Record (or Chorus) hubs laced 28 spoke 1x or 2x front, Wheelsmith ovals on Alloy nipples. Rear will be 28 spoke 2x drive, radial non drive with alloy non drive and brass drive side nipples. This on a Open 4 or Campy rim will offer an AWESOME wheel with equal or lower weight to the pre-built wheels at a much lower cost. I have about 10 years on a front wheel and 8 on a rear that I built up this way. I did build them on Ceramic rims for longer life and better wet stops.
Two replies - 1 to my suggestion and your question of price. About $350-$400
Second as to why slow uphill and fast down…the Campagnolo Shamal HPW 12 is shown to be the fastest wheel there is other than a disk in a wind tunnel. It is however a bit heavy. I own a pair of Shamal HPW 12 and can tell you they are the fastest wheels I have on a flat course - bar none.
Other wheels I own
Zipp 909
Zipp 404
Campagnolo Shamal HPW12
Campagnolo Neucleon
Campagnolo Neutron
Campagnolo Record hubs on Campagnolo Montreal rims 32’ 3x
Mavic Hubs on Mavic rims built as I describe in my original post
Some old Rovals
Velomax (something, they came on my P3 and I never rode em)
and a couple other sets…
Others I have owned
Mavic Helium
Mavic Ksirum
Rolf somethings…
and a ton in the past - remember the Matrix ISO CII folks?
Sorry, I was being lazy with my typing. I meant that the wheels are heavier so they feel a bit sluggish uphill at slow speeds, but going down, the wheel (and hub) feel so completely solid its a pleasure to ride them. No shimmying, no funny bumps/hops, just smooooth sailing down the curves.
Kenney I don’t see the logic in the question. Why do you want to ride around on a $1000 set of wheels all the time when a $300-400 set will do the exact same thing? Putting out the grand for a set of wheels usually gets you a set too fragile to use on a daily basis unless you have money to burn.
For about a grand you could get a set of Ksyriums and maybe a Renn disc as your go fast wheel. If you were just looking for a bling set of everyday wheels . Look at Phil Wood highflange sl or Chris king hubs on a good rim 32 hole. Bottom line is that most $1000 wheels aren’t made as daily riders.
Yes there are guys that will tell you blah blah blah wheel will do it, but it really dosen’t make too much sense. Possibly Hed 3 might be ok daily riders. I always wonder what that Fred is doing out there training on race wheels when I see somebody go by on stupid light or trick wheels on a training ride. 32 hole box rims for me mom.
You are correct, there is no logic. I am very ignorant in this area. Its not that I want to ride around on $1000.00 wheels. If $400.00 is all I need, that works for me. I have no desire to spend big bucks for race wheels that bring status and do no help for a 18mph rider. With being ignorant on the difference of wheels I just desire where to put my my money. Spend dollars on hubs and simple rims? ect…?As you stated if 300 to 400 gets you the exact same thing,then I am happy. I just did not know if that was the case. With that said do you have ant suggestions on the best hub to rim and or any other suggestions. Would like the best combination of rim hub spokes for 5000 to 7500 miles and $750.00 for all round performance. Thanks
I’ve never owned a set of carbon wheels but the talk here is that they’re probably not for day-in day-out activities. On the other hand, there is a guy who goes to my LBS who rides 3spoke heds on his commuter.
There are plenty of race wheels out there, you can buy Zipp, HED, Reynolds rims separately with your own hub but I think in most cases it adds up more than if you get the whole caboodles (unless you can build your own wheels.)
Like I said, I’ve ridden my Shamals rough, sometimes keeping them on my bike for weeks at a time and have had zero problems. I attribute it to the high sidewalls (39?) and rock solid hub. I definitely don’t think a carbon wheel would stand up as well as an aluminum deep dish. I think American Classics has some too - the 420? Friend of mine has it and likes it. I got my Shamals 3rd/4th hand for 200$. I doubt I’ll ever sell 'em.
Mavic CXP33 with Ultegra hubs. Over 15,000 miles, and they have yet to be trued. I also use Specialized Armadillo tires and no flats since I switched to them. Of course, this isn’t the fastest setup but it is reliable, and that is what I want for training.