I just compared the spin-down time of my fancy-pants Hed Jet 60’s vs. my workaday Easton Vistas. I’ll post the results if anyone is interested, but let’s just say I’m starting to wonder if I spent my money wisely. It’s a BIG difference.
Is it an important difference??? It seems (to my rather puny brain) like it would be…
Help!
No
.
Spindown time does not matter. All else being equal, a heavier wheel will take longer to spin down than a lighter one…this doesn’t mean that we all want to add weight to our wheels!
Basically a heavier wheel has more energy to dissipate that a light one, so it takes longer for the bearing friction to slow it. A linear analogy would be that the braking distance to go from 50mph to a full stop in your car would be longer if the trunk was filled with sand bags.
All that being said, the HEDs are much more aerodynamic and are a faster wheel on the road. The front HED sonic hub is a bit finicky though, and the bearings can bind a bit if not perfectly adjusted and the QR is clamped down hard. You’ll know this is the case if the wheel does not freely oscillate until the valve stem is at 12:00.
Agree w/ Titanflxr.
Also add that wearing in bearings, especially cartridge from my expereince, tends to free them up over time. How many miles on each wheelset? If you only use the HEDs on raceday, perhaps put a couple thousand good weather miles on them.
Agree w/ Titanflxr.
Also add that wearing in bearings, especially cartridge from my expereince, tends to free them up over time. How many miles on each wheelset? If you only use the HEDs on raceday, perhaps put a couple thousand good weather miles on them.
The Eastons have about 5,000 miles on them in all types of weather. The HEDs are mixed - the front one is used, rather old, with an unknown history, the rear is new with maybe a few hundred miles at most.
I’ll try a similarly-styled road test this week.
Spindown time does not matter. All else being equal, a heavier wheel will take longer to spin down than a lighter one…this doesn’t mean that we all want to add weight to our wheels!
Basically a heavier wheel has more energy to dissipate that a light one, so it takes longer for the bearing friction to slow it. A linear analogy would be that the braking distance to go from 50mph to a full stop in your car would be longer if the trunk was filled with sand bags.
All that being said, the HEDs are much more aerodynamic and are a faster wheel on the road. The front HED sonic hub is a bit finicky though, and the bearings can bind a bit if not perfectly adjusted and the QR is clamped down hard. You’ll know this is the case if the wheel does not freely oscillate until the valve stem is at 12:00.
I’m pretty sure the HEDs are heavier than the Eastons, although I guess I’ve never actually set them on a scale. Might have to try that.
Even taking everything else into account (like wear, weight, etc.), it is still irrelevant, because a spindown compares wheels without load on the bearings. Unless you don’t weight anything, I imagine that isn’t exactly realistic. I.e., lightly oiled bearings would spin a LOT longer. But you want bearings heavily packed with grease, because that is what lasts during real riding. Same thing with really sloppy bearings. They will perform better in an unloaded spin. But will suck to ride on. So it’s basically a useless test. “Watts to spin,” which considers bearings, drag (if done in a windtunnel), etc. is relevant if they are loaded (such as on a drum).
Hey Jordan,
I was just about to email you but thought I’d chime in on this one since it’s kinda related. Oh and by the way my hands are still cut up from last nights tire escapade…
We were gonna have the HED 3 spoke in the front on Sam’s bike for tomorrow, but I’ve noticed when spinning it, it slows down to a stop quite quickly. I can’t see any mis-shape of the wheel, it seems to be running fairly true between the blocks. I’ve never heard of this whole spinning the wheel and the valve coming to rest at 12 o’clock…but as we clarified last night I’ve been outa the game for sometime and things change (like REALLY tight tires…) So I’m guessing it’s hub related IF there is anything unusual going on. The wheel has only ever been ridden for 40 km’s before, by a friend who wanted to borrow a set of wheels for a race.
Should she use the 3 spoke or stick her Jet 60 in that’s had more use and is running smooth, and keeps on spinning? The weathers pretty fine down here, the wind seems to get up in the arvo, but we anticipate it to be fairly still tomorrow at 6.30am.
If it’s a new wheel, it’s just because the bearings are new. Pick whichever wheel she feels comfortable with. When actually using them, it won’t make a difference. It’s a fast course, so I’d pick the H3, as it’s a faster wheel. But the other wheel is fine too if you are more confident from having used that one before. Never use anything new on race day. 
Also consider, as someone may well have already pointed out, that you are testing the wheel without load on it. There may be a difference in the rotating characteristics when there is rider weight on it.
what is spin down time?
i’ve just been dealing with this issue. my front hed3 spins forever, but my jet60 is erratic. sometimes it will spin fine like the h3, but most of the time there is a noticeable deceleration. can the bearings be adjusted easily, or does it need to go to the shop?
i’ve just been dealing with this issue. my front hed3 spins forever, but my jet60 is erratic. sometimes it will spin fine like the h3, but most of the time there is a noticeable deceleration. can the bearings be adjusted easily, or does it need to go to the shop?
I talked to Andy at HED about this. The preload on the bearings needs to be adjusted. It’s kinda like a headset adjustment: too loose and you have side-to-side play in the wheel, too tight and the bearings bind a bit. You can adjust the nuts on both sides if the hub using either cone wrenches (15mm I think), or if you remove the skewer, you can place a 5mm hex key in to turn them. Here’s how I adjusted mine:
Turn the nuts until you feel them hit the bearing (no tension). These will probably spin freely if you just rest the wheel in the fork, but if you clamp down the QR you’ll probably feel some binding.
Back each of the nuts off 1/8 turn (you should be able to do this w/fingers) and reclamp the wheel into the fork.
Repeat step 2 until the wheel spins freely (i.e. the valve stem rotates to 12:00 on it’s own, even with the QR clamped down hard), but there is no side-to-side play in the hub when you push the rim towards the brake pads (you’ll feel the slop as the bearings move inside the hub shell). If there is slop, you need to tighten the nuts a bit.
When your bike is off the ground and you spin the wheel, it is how long it takes for the wheel to stop spinning.
oooooohhhhhhh that’s just a physics problem.