Indoor Bike Training and PowerTap Calibration

I’ve done a good bit of indoor training over the past couple months, and have started to notice something a bit strange. Sometimes the power reported seems low by about 15-20 watts, especially on easier efforts. So I unclip, do a manual calibration and it might say 512. I can calibrate it a minute later, and get another value, like 504, then a minute later 509, etc. It sort of jumps around between 504-512. How would this affect the reported power output? Also, do I need to periodically manually calibrate it when on the trainer? I know that out on the road, it’ll supposedly auto-calibrate by coasting, but there’s not a whole lot of coasting done on the trainer.

I’m using a G3 PowerTap hub (default firmware, never updated), and a 310XT for my head unit. Fluid2 trainer.

Thanks

A trainer is definitely going to require you do some manual zeroing, since you generally never coast for 5 seconds which kicks off the auto zero. We usually do a coast down after the warm up, but a manual zero is even better.

Something that might help prevent how jumpy it is, is to put a fan on the resistant unit and rear wheel, or use a better ventilated room, or just get a HUGE fan. Heat is what causes the drift, and a lot of heat is generated by the resistance unit right next to the hub.

Thanks Jack. You’ve encouraged me to “coast more” in the past. I’ll give the dedicated resistance unit fan a shot, and see if this stabilizes things.