So I plan to buy a 10 spd. Dual or P2k…or something, but I want to make sure that when I get it I know which wheels to buy.
I’m pretty hooked on the 404, but I’m not sure which details to follow. Do they have to match speeds? And what about the cassette? I’m an avg. rider, and plan to do IMUSA…what cassette should I get it for?
Does the wheel limit the cassette and the speed at all??
Also, if I get the 404 slightly used…what sort of price should I look for?
Spoke count and rider weight, you can get more spokes if you want. In a lot of cases a 24/28 combination may last longer than the lower count spokes. Rider weight and road surface count a lot.
Use Just for TT/ Tri racing or are you going to use them on road rides/hill climbs?
If they are used check to see if they are “true” and visually inspect the carbonfiber. Used low spoke count wheels may be well past their prime. I like buying used stuff from someone I know that takes good care of their stuff.
%. 10 and 9 speed are somewhat interchangable on the wheels, Campy/Shimano can be worked out in some cases. You also have chain differences with the 9 vs 10 speed. Most folks I know are on 10 speed roadbike/ 9 speed on tri/TT bike. And will update the TT bike whenevers
I will be racing quite a few tri’s, including IMLP. I haven’t decided if I will be training at all on them-- but my guess is a small amount…but I wouldnt hesitate if they were strong enough. How many spokes should I get?? arg.
Clinchers – fo sho.
Also, later could I put a CH cover on the rear one? are they going to be made illegal for tris I’d join?
At your size, you can go with the lower # of spokes and be fine.
Occasional training on 'em is probably fine, but, you are risking a very expensive repair if they get damaged on a training ride. Hence - training wheels. Plus - nothing better than slapping on some fast race wheels for the race, since you know you’ll be faster than you trained.
Clinchers - good call. No need to get into a whole other kettle of fish here.
No need for an aero cover (plus, I seriously doubt it would fit properly anyway) on a 404. They are already pretty fast on their own. IF you really want an aero cover, then don’t get a rear 404, just run the cover and a front race wheel in that scenario.
Pretty much the only place a disc is illegal is Kona. Worry about that then…
Not to argue–but I will…
Even on a climb up to 10%, the rolling resistance benefit essentially equals out the weight penalty, assumming a .001 difference between a quality tubular and a quality clincher (and this is probably being kind to the tubie–actual difference is probably more!).
Anything flatter than that, and the clincher is just faster. The tubulars may “feel” faster, but that’s the only advantage!
Factor in cost of the tires, ease of changing tires for events/road surface, etc…he’s right to go with clinchers!
At 150 lbs, the stock spoke count (18/24) would be plenty.
The weight from the tubular to the clincher is quite a bit with the wheel alone, not adding the tire. With the tire is is even more. That being said…they dont feel the same at all on a bike - period. The Tubular feels much more resiliant and seems to turn in better than the clincher.
“they dont feel the same at all on a bike - period”
I don’t dispute that fact–but “feeling” and going fast are two different things.
Physics don’t lie!! Rolling resist. trumps weight every time in just about every real-world situation. And, it’s hard to imagine a course so technical that “feeling better in the turns” would equal things out…