I tried and failed (Tubular Mounting)

I’d try it again, I just mounted my first tubbie last week. I used the 3 coat rim, 2 coat tire, 3 day glue process. I did panick at how fast the glue started to set. It took all my strength to get the last bit of tire on the wheel and straighten it out. Within minutes that thing was stuck. I also then deflated the tire and rolled it along a broom handle with some serious weight to push the tire into the rim.

Tried to get it off, I’m not sure if it’s possible. I did get some glue on the brake track, but I figure it’ll just come off with some more riding. I’m not noticing any issues with it.

You can usually just rub the glue off the rim with your fingers after it is slightly set.

Or just clean it off with acetone and a paper towel.

3m general purpose adhesive remover. Red can. Get it. Been there, done that.

It’s really not that hard. Apply the glue to the rim and tire with a flux brush purchased at a plumbing supply store. They are cheap and you can throw them away after each application.

Once you are ready to mount, remove all air. Place the valve stem into the rim and stretch the tire on both sides by pulling around the rim.

It takes a bit of practice, but is not all that hard. Take your time.

i put them on the wheels, inflated them and left them for two days.

This was the only post mentioning it, so I thought it was worth repeating. Did you pre-stretch your tubes before gluing them? Easiest mistake to make. They are probably stretched by now, so your 2nd attempt will be much easier.

Like everyone else said: Once you rip off your tires, just add new glue and put them back on. You can pick off any blotches (boogers) with your fingernails.

Use 3M FastTak.

I realize that the OP is using Easton wheels, but for those folks using Zipp wheels, the Zipp manual says DO NOT USE 3M FAST TACK as it softens the glue used on the tire base tape and may damage tires upon removal.

Use 3M FastTak.

Zipp says: Do not use 3M Fast Tack. Fast Tack is an automotive adhesive that gained popularity a few years ago, but has the effect of softening the base tape glue of many of today’s tires. The aggressive tack is prone to damage tires on removal.

Here is the link to their instructions: Zipp | SRAM

Thanks for the Zipp site. I have never glued my Tubies so I’m following this thread.

Yea, Alex at least you tried. My wife and I both have Zipp Tubies and I’ve never done it.

I went to the Zipp site and that’s was how the guys I bought my Zipps from showed me how to do it.

Good luck

I tried again today and I did a much better job. The difference was not letting the glue dry like Jimatbeyond told me. The tires were much easier to true on the rim. It’s not bad once you get it.

Thanks for all the advice everyone.

Why are you putting glue on the tires before mounting them ??? - makes for a real mess and when you glue the rim, it obviously saturates onto the mounting material when you inflate your tubie.
Suggestion (based on years of tubie usage without probs)
Skip your #1,#2 steps

Prestretch your tubie overnight on spare rim at high inflation - take off rim just before mounting tubie on chosen tubular rim

Use a rubber glove to spread an even moderate layer of glue (conti is what I always use) on tubular rim with single finger … moderate amount.
Slip tubie onto glued rim (no glue on tubie) after glue has dried to moderately tackie … and position it so mounting material is even on both sides of rim (should balance it)
Fully inflate tubieand let dry for at least 12 hours before using.
Mounting tubies is REALLY EASY once you get the technique down … people just make it way more difficult than it is. :slight_smile:
Dave

Use 3M FastTak.

Zipp says: Do not use 3M Fast Tack. Fast Tack is an automotive adhesive that gained popularity a few years ago, but has the effect of softening the base tape glue of many of today’s tires. The aggressive tack is prone to damage tires on removal.

:slight_smile: My work here is done! I have to admit, I do like to stir the pot… :wink:

FWIW, I have been using FastTak for years and have never experienced the alleged problems FastTack supposedly causes. But that’s just me.

Skip your #1,#2 steps

I get skipping #1 but why #2?

I’m referring to his first post on this thread … where I’m starting at his #3. Why … its not necessary and just makes an unneeded mess.
Dave

Dave, got it thanks.

BTW: I miss read the post. I thought #1 said put glue on the tire…my bad.

Again thanks.

Oh…

I do mine a bit deferently… I just put glu on the rim, leave it for 5 mins, glue on the tyre (part inflated) pull on tyre, wiggle until straight, pump tyre to max, then leave for at laeast 24 hrs.

Never lost one…yet!

Richard Cunningham wrote a great article on gluing tubular (with pictures) a couple of moths ago in Road Bike Action magazine. I just put a set of tires on a pair of zipp 404’s. Here is my way. I always remove the old glue. 3M general purpose adhesive cleaner (Available at any auto body supply store.) Does a great job. Install tire on rim over night to stretch it. Notice how much fabric on the tire is sticking out above the rim. This will help you to center the tire when you put the tire on a glued rim. Next day…I only do one tire at a time. Take the tire off rim. Attach a rod or something to a work bench or ladder to hang the tire. Turn over a bicycle on the floor install wheel. Continental glue says 2 thin coats of glue. I prefer 3 and then a thin coat on the center of the tire. Go to hardware store get some solder brushes. One tube of glue will do two tires doing 2 coats . Have two tubes of glue Thin Coat Work in small areas, like between spoke holes. Just dab and spread. Take your time. You will quickly learn how it spreads. To much glue at a time, creates a mess. Let dry 30 mins. Put second coat on rim. Let dry 30 mins. Put third coat on rim. Take the tire step into the center of it and pull. Not real hard, just enough to stretch it some more. Turn inside out, hang on pole , glue the center of the fabric with a thin coat. Not all the fabric just the center. Wait 30 mins. I like to use a clean work bench to mount the tire to wheel. Turn tire back to normal, put in a little air. Valve hole on top, put tire on rim, make sure valve stem is all the way in. Place wheel on bench up right. Working with both hands, on both sides of the tire at the top, pull down on the tire while you are installing. Remember what the fabric looked like when you pre stretched it. As you pull down look at the fabric and make it even. Work all the way down the wheel to the top of the work bench. Flip wheel over, using thumbs push up and over to finish install. Sometimes I am lucky and it is centered. But usually I have to break the bond and move the tire a little. Mostly at the last part of the install… Put some air in, hold wheel between finger, spin. Check for even thread.run. A little wobble is ok. If excessive, break the bond and recenter. Air up tires, let them set over nite…ride.

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I know tubular tape generally gets a bad rap here but you might want to try it. I was sick of dealing with glue so tried out the Tufo Extreme tubular tape (after cleaning the old glue off my wheels with Goof Off) last year. It is pretty much impossible to screw up if you follow the directions. If you do end up flatting you can use a pre-glued tubular and it will adhere to the tape just fine.

But now - I just picked up some HED clinchers and am psyched to say goodbye to tubies.

Good luck.

Any tips for the next try on this? I wanna get this nailed before I try on my 808’s.

Yes… I have updated your process below. My additions in BOLD.

…Well I followed this process:
0. Find someone who has done it many time before to learn from and check your work…

  1. Thin coat on the wheels and tires let dry overnight
  2. 2nd coat on the wheels and tires let dry overnight
  3. 3rd coat on the rim and let it sit about 15 minutes and mount the tire.

:smiley:

HTH,

g