I have been racing tri for two years now, and I have learned a lot, but still have to trust others about so much. After riding an old road bike and doing well these last two years I figured even the elitist triathlete would say I deserve a tri bike.
I have been shopping with different LBS’s in the area and now I am more confused than ever. One shop says 52, the other 54, and yet another a 58cm. Whatever they have left from '04 is what they are pushing on me. I have $2000 to spend. I am relatively new at this sport so I don’t need the very best.
You make a valid point. Sometimes buying a bike is convoluted and not straight forward. I hate that.
However, buying a bike is a distinctly different set of requirements to, say, a vacuum cleaner.
Vacuum cleaners are substantially more generic. I use an automotive analogy since I live in a car town:
If you want to buy a Ford Focus, you go to the lot, maybe take a test dirve, pick your color from one of maybe 10-30 Ford Focuses, look at a couple options and make your best deal. That evening or the next day you;re driving your new Ford Focus. Pretty straightforward.
If you want to buy an entry level SCCA race car, you have to find one for sale or a guy who builds them. You have a discussion about your racing experience, where you’re racing, how much you have to spend, etc. He take it from there and chances are, maybe builds you something or modifies something pretty significantly. It isn’t as streamlined as just buying a grocery getter.
When people buy race bikes they are leaving the mainstream consumer realm of vacuum cleaners, Ford Focuses and toilet paper- generic consumer goods- into the realm of specialty consumer goods or niche goods- mostly very low volume, mostly somehow modified for the end user. That adds a couple layers of complexity.
The sizing/positioning issue is the primary determining factor in performance and a good customer ownership experience. That means, like Dan has said, what you’re really shopping for isn’t a bike, it’s a bike shop.
The size could vary between manufacturers. I know I would ride a 52 in some tri bikes and 56 in some rodies. I would suggest you find a good shop then go there. Where do you live? I would think someone here knows a shop in the area that is good and trustworthy. If you are in NYC or Austin, TX I can help but it lloks like you may be in Colorado. Also how tall are you? Are you more leg than torso? 52 to 58 does seem a bit extreme. With 2000.00 to spend you should be able to get a good bike.
Find out who the “man” is for fitting, spend the dough for the fit from the “man” and then go bike shopping, I got the mesaurements, not the size of bike, from the “man” here in SLC, he did give me some head starts to try as far as bike sizes, but I have pretty straight forward fit. He didn’t have any closeouts my size but even offered to help whoever I bought from with the fit if they had any questions.
If its Denver/Boulder there has to be plenty of respected fitters, ask a few questions and you’ll get the name of the “man” that you should go see.
For me, it was get the fit, then go shopping. Thats how I was able to sleep right after plunking down more than I had for my first three cars and two motorcycles.
In theory, the proper way to determine frame size is to measure your in inseam in cm and then multiply by .67. Have a read on this web site and it tells you how to do this properly. As pointed out, different manufacturers may measure their frames slightly differently.
Measure yourself as described on the site with an assistant and then do the math. That will put you in the ball park.
Assuming your current bike fits you “OK” (refer to the fit articles on the ST website for what OK means), then measure the geometry of your trusty steed: top tube and seat tube at a minimum. This should give you a “ballpark” figure for sizing of whatever bike you consider ( some mfrs use top tube for sizing, others use seat tube ). This won’t make you an expert, but you’ll be able to tell if someone in the LBS is feeding you a helping of BS or not.
PS: I forgot to ad that if you’re 5’9", I guess that you’ll likely fit best on a 53 or 54 cm frame based upon the formula, assuming that you have “normal” leg to torso proportions. 58 cm seems a bit too big for a rider of your height.
I bought a tri bike in SLC last year, and was impressed with the shop I bought from. I got a Quintana Roo from Fishers bike shop on 2175 South, 900 East. They carry QR and Cervelo, both of which I think you would be happy with and stay within your budget. They are near Sugarhouse park, and will let you take the bike on a ride for a couple loops around the park. If you have more questions about them, you can email me at Jerrodg@yahoo.com. (I am not affiliated with their shop in any way, just a very satisfied customer) Oh yeah, I am also 5’9" and got put on a QR Tequilo 53cm bicycle. Bike, tri-shoes (SIDI T-1) Speedplay pedals, and a computer with cadence monitor for under 2000$.
While I also agree that Cervelo makes great bikes I think a 55cm tri bike is going to be too big for him. If he is 5’9 he would be better on a 53 or even 52 tri bike. On a rodie he may be a 55 but more likely a 54 at Cervelo. The reason I think this is that I am about the same size 5’9"+ . How is the P3 working out so far?
I feel your pain. over the fall I bought my new bike…and I researched, and asked, and visited shops, etc. the more I learned the more intimidating it was. so, I just went with my favoirte bike shop and bought a bianchi…a significant upgrade from my first biachi. rather than meet new sales people at bike shops and be told taht I needed to spen 10 grand to get what i wanted, I decided to work with the guys who have helped me along the way. it was the best decision…the guys are great and my bike is smashingly awesome.
so, the point is, work with the bike shop that you like the best…and hopefully you pick one that has your interest at heart, as opposed to their own–or at least it’s a mutual relationship.
(BTW, I knew in my heart i wanted a bianchi anyway…i regret spending months looking around. i should have just bought it because I could have ridden outside with it for at least 2 months before the stupid winter came).
Wow Tom, that’s kind of intense. And I thought you were only into triathlon. I haven’t wanted to buy an entry level SCCA race car in hmmmm, never, but I guess the point is taken
Call the fit guys at Nytro…they’re one of THE best over the phone fit specialists around!!!
I know several riders that have bought both Tri and Road set ups from them via phone…and were amazed how the bikes fit out of the box.
Just have a - somewhat, intelligent friend take your body measurements with a tailors measuring tape…(they’ll tell you all this when you talk to them ). its a painless process.
For that kind of money…if you have the body for it…its hard to beat the 04 Cervelo P2k…w/ the Ultegra 9’s( I’m not sure about the 10’s durability) OR the X Lab Mach 1…AWESOME steed!
I met a guy that has 1 season on his Mach 1 who was kind enough to let me check it out…very nice.
Similar to my QR Caliente…a bit cheaper too.
Whatever you do…pay for the FIT!!!
I’d even put some $$ aside and get a hold of John Cobb for a session.
Sounds like you might be podium bound…so do it right the first time and avoid the frustration of pissing away 2 grand on the wrong bike.
Riding is mostly good this time of year, snow doesn’t stay on the roads for long, so as long as you can handle slightly cold weather it is no problem. When you come, make sure that you ride Emigration Canyon. It is a killer climp up the mountain towards Park City. Supposedly there is a group that charges up it around 30 minutes, but I haven’t managed to crack an hour yet.
If you want to buy an entry level SCCA race car, you have to find one for sale or a guy who builds them. You have a discussion about your racing experience, where you’re racing, how much you have to spend, etc. He take it from there and chances are, maybe builds you something or modifies something pretty significantly. It isn’t as streamlined as just buying a grocery getter.
or just go buy a new C6 or sti (depending on your class of course) . . .
if it helps giving you a secondary point of reference, i’m 5’9 w a 30’ inseam and fit well on a size 52 cervelo p2k. you might want to limit your search to bikes with an effective top tube length between 520 and 550 mm, depending on your torso and arm lengths. i can’t imagine a 58 being anywhere close to being able to fit you…chances are it’ll leave you way too stretched out which kills your lower back, and doesn’t do wonders for your breathing either. but most importantly, buy the bike which handles well, not just the one that seems to fit while mounted on the trainer. and don’t give in to a dealer who is motivated to clear inventory and not giving any attention to what you need. as for what to buy, a cervelo dual (maybe size 51) would be a terrific bike for you if the fit is right, plus it’ll leave you with some extra money to spend on other stuff.
