So I have a pressfit BB on my Guru Flite road bike and can’t get the crank out.
Took it to the LBS and they couldn’t either. Full swings with a mallet on the spindle and it won’t budge a millimeter.
Any suggestions how to remove a crank that is extremely stuck?
It’s an Vision trimax aluminum one if that makes a difference.
Do you care about the crankset? and does it still spin freely? what is the reason for removal?
I’m not familiar with the type of BB you’re using, but I’ll offer my $0.02 anyway. Perhaps it’ll be of help.
I’ve had trouble a few times removing my BB. First thing I did was make sure I was twisting it in the right direction (CCW/CW). Then made sure to use the correct removal tool - not the open-end wrench type, but the big socket that fits over the entire BB. With an assistant holding the socket in place, I used a 5’ breaker bar for extra leverage. Worked like a charm. You could also find someone with an impact wrench.
You may want to look into a can of penetrating oil. Saturate the BB area with the oil and allow it to soak in for a day or two. That may help.
Good luck.
I have the exact same problem with an R5Ca. I cannot get the rotor SRM crank out for nothing. I think they used loctite. I have beat it to death with a mallet and no luck.
I would put it on a trainer, and ride it hard and see if it lodges loose. If it doesn’t, I would take it to another LBS, and if they can’t get it off, I would hacksaw the crank off. I’d be afraid if you keep hitting it and messing with it, you might damage the bb, frame near the crank/bb, etc.
Are you in IN? If so, leave your bike outside when it’s below freezing. This will cause the metal to contract a little and should help make hammering it out easier. When I was reinstalling my Cannondale crank, I left the spindle in the freezer overnight and it was much easier to insert.
Perhaps one of the bearings is not sitting quite flush. I would take some time to carefully try and tap the exposed bearing into its seat, your S.O.L on the DS. Could even perhaps try and tap the inner race a little which might break it free if it has bound to the spindle. Not sue if WD40 might help, but I would spray a bit on and let it penetrate overnight just in case it helps. Then try again. Might also require a bit more shock than a mallet can provide, perhaps place a bit of alloy over the end of the spindle and give it a tap with a metal hammer, shouldn’t require much force.
To answer the questions so far.
I’ve tried wd40. Don’t really care much about the crank now. Trying to put a Quarq on. And still no luck thus far.
The LBS advice was to “try a sledge hammer” 
There is a product called “supercold 134”, it’s a spraycan for getting things VERY COLD. Try spraying some super Cold onto the bearing and then pound it with the big mallet
The supercold 134 is a good idea, but don’t spray it on the bearing, this will shrink the diameter of the bearing, we want to shrink the diameter of the crank spindle so spray it inside the spindle. Be ready to wallop the spindle quickly because the temperature will transfer fairly quickly to the bearings because both the spindle and bearing race are steel (an excellent conductor).
And as far as using a sledge hammer, please put a block of wood right on the end of the crank spindle and hit that. Start with fairly light taps and get a feel for the hammer before taking a good crack at it. Might be time to call in a favor from your best friend to hold the block of wood:)
rich
Nothing like everyone spraying HFC R134a and killing the ozone. I thought that was my job 
jaretj
Not sure if my method will work for your b but…
I had a stuck bb several years ago. Wd40, and let sit over night. Then I got an impact gun and went nuts. I would go for about a minute, then switch to the other side for a minute. The small air tank on my compressor would only last a minute. After a total of 90 minutes (45 each side) they finally spun out.
bizarrely the frame was perfect and so were the bb threads.
I painted the frame, greased the living crap out of everything and put it back together. Every time I have removed it since then has been really easy.
It sounds like you have Galvanic corrosion occurring between the steel bearing races and the aluminum spindle. This can be extremely hard to unstick especially if you’ve been riding the trainer and sweating in the bike a lot. PB Blast is very good for unsticking this type of jam. Getting the spindle cold using a chemical spray or packing the hollow spindle with ice before knocking it with a mallet will also help. Do this, douse heavily with PB blast and leave outdoors or in the garage over night (it is very noxious), ride it on the trainer for a minute with a sprint or two to torque it, remove non drive crank arm and pack spindle with ice. Wait five minutes and firmly hit with rubber mallet while supporting the bb area as best you can to prevent frame damage.
It sounds like you have Galvanic corrosion occurring between the steel bearing races and the aluminum spindle. This can be extremely hard to unstick especially if you’ve been riding the trainer and sweating in the bike a lot. PB Blast is very good for unsticking this type of jam. Getting the spindle cold using a chemical spray or packing the hollow spindle with ice before knocking it with a mallet will also help. Do this, douse heavily with PB blast and leave outdoors or in the garage over night (it is very noxious), ride it on the trainer for a minute with a sprint or two to torque it, remove non drive crank arm and pack spindle with ice. Wait five minutes and firmly hit with rubber mallet while supporting the bb area as best you can to prevent frame damage.
This. PB Blaster is good, better is Kroil if you can find some (try auto parts stores). Icing the spindle and heating the bottom bracket will help. Then get some wood and a BFH.
Make sure the grease you use has anti-seize properties when you put the new parts in. Aluminum and steel love to fuse together.
PB blaster has helped me in the past with sutck press in bearings on a Fat Chance steel mountian bike. I was beating it with a hammer as hard as possible and it would not budge. I sprayed with PB blaster and let it sit overnight. The next day I just touched the bearings and they fell out. I was impressed.
Might be time to call in a favor from your best friend to hold the block of wood:)
rich
I was the friend holding the wood one Tim (not for a bike, but still wood and a 14 pound sledge hammer)
My buddy missed the wood and smashed my right wrist with a full blow. Not sure if I was lucky or not but no broken bones but did get nerve damage. Now I have very little feeling in my thumb fore finger and middle finger. I’m right handed so it’s a real bitch.
Changing gears, braking or even just drinking a post ride coffee is a pain in the butt.
If the op goes with the sledge hammer option have his little brother hold the wood, not a friend friends are hard to come by but a little brother will always be a little brother. Lol
Is it just me, or is it a little odd that a bunch of guys are sitting around talking about what lubes to use on their cranks. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.
I guess I should’ve called this “Help me yank my crank”
.
… but did get nerve damage. Now I have very little feeling in my thumb fore finger and middle finger…Not sure when this happened, but don’t give up hope. I had some nerve damage. Took about 5 years, but it eventually came right. Not sure if “touch wood” is appropriate here, might get you in trouble again.
It happened 30 years ago
I’m used to it now. I wouldn’t mind if it was just numbness but the very annoying pins and needles feeling that lasts up to several hours, is what gets frustrating .
The frostbite (frost nip really) certainly hasn’t helped the situation.
Luckily I’m old and will die soon. Then the nerve problems will be over. Unless the Hindus are right.