I’m getting my first set of proper race wheels for next season. Since I’m no dentist, I don’t have the funds to pop for clincher race wheels and can’t find many good deals on them. But I have found lots of good deals on tubulars that I can start out with for a couple seasons and upgrade to clinchers in the future. I have a super 9 disc right now, and will look to get a 404 for the front when I find the right one.
Without starting a debate, what are the solutions people have used to in case you flat on the course with a tubular regarding spares, sealant, or anything else that you may have done?
I have raced many times on tubulars. My experience is pretty good aside from a run in with tacks on the course at IMC over 10 years ago. Mount new or excellent condition tubulars 1 or 2 weeks before the race and test ride several times, use a sealant as it minimizes the risk of a flat forcing a tire change. I usually carry a previously used good condition spare (I glue my tubulars on so there is some glue still on the tire). I also carry 2 CO2 cartridges. I have also seen some riders carry a portable sealant such as Caffe Latex taped to the top tube. I hope this helps.
My first set of race wheels were tubulars. I used Veloflex record tires. Used them often. I had one flat during a race and I carried a replacement tire so I switched it out. Then patched the tire afterwards. This was back in the 1990’s so this info is dated.
These days I ride clinchers, but for tubulars, still, carry a replacement tire just in case but also sealant.
I’m getting my first set of proper race wheels for next season. Since I’m no dentist, I don’t have the funds to pop for clincher race wheels and can’t find many good deals on them. But I have found lots of good deals on tubulars that I can start out with for a couple seasons and upgrade to clinchers in the future. I have a super 9 disc right now, and will look to get a 404 for the front when I find the right one.
Without starting a debate, what are the solutions people have used to in case you flat on the course with a tubular regarding spares, sealant, or anything else that you may have done?
I’ve been using tubulars for 2 years now and I got them for the exact same reason as yours. First, I put 1/3 of sealant in good tires to prevent small puncture. Secondly, I carry this for the repair.
I used to carry Vittoria pit stop, but I switched it because Espresso is easier to use for my rear disc. I haven’t had any flat so far and I will change tires soon although they are still good before my 70.3 in September and October. I can tell they are wearing out. I don’t know how to change tubular tires and I don’t carry spare either.
I only recently switched over to clinchers this season, because I bought a new bike. But, I ran tubulars for years on my race wheels. For a spare, what others have said, I would carry an old tubular with a tire lever, CO2 and disc-compatible valve. Also, I would carry a razor blade to get the old one off. I’d roll it as tight as I could get it and then duct tape it together, and secure it under the saddle or cages in the rear. BTW, if you’re looking for a 404, PM me. I have one that I’d be willing to sell. It’s a few years old, but it’s in great shape.
I learn to glue tubulars almost 50 years ago. My current race wheels are tubulars. That said, I wouldn’t get them again. Way too many improvements in tubeless and tubed clinchers. While you can find tubular wheels for less money, the tires are more expensive. I know this isn’t what you asked, but my suggestion is to rent race wheels (maybe even ones that you’d be interested in) and continue to save for wheels that will likely be faster than tubulars.
Flatted in Ironman with tubulars once. Chesepeakman before it became im Maryland. Carried pitstop and it mostly leaked out big hole in tire. Held enough air for me to finish but maybe only 20 pounds of pressure. Sold tubulars. Pittstop once worked in Olympic distance race and saved my race though. Still would not do Im on them ever again.
I’m getting my first set of proper race wheels for next season. Since I’m no dentist, I don’t have the funds to pop for clincher race wheels and can’t find many good deals on them. But I have found lots of good deals on tubulars that I can start out with for a couple seasons and upgrade to clinchers in the future. I have a super 9 disc right now, and will look to get a 404 for the front when I find the right one.
Without starting a debate, what are the solutions people have used to in case you flat on the course with a tubular regarding spares, sealant, or anything else that you may have done?
we used to race with tubies. my first 20 years at IM was during the tubie era. nothing that can’t be done. just, when a tubie goes, the whole thing goes, as opposed to a tube inside a tire. so, if money is your argument, there is that.
the most common mistake triathletes make is gluing them on too tight. i put on a layer or 2 of glue, let it dry, then put on a thin layer and that’s how i glue on the tire, so that you can get it off when it flats. (you’re not racing criteriums.) your best spare tire is a tire that’s been used for awhile, it still has a layer of glue on it, you ripped it off when you put on new tubies, that tire is likely to more or less stay on if used as a spare after a flat.
You just use a razor blade to cut off a properly glued tire.
if you glue it on too tight. there’s no reason to glue a tire on that tight for a triathlon. i raced and trained on tubies for all sorts of conditions, both in tri and in bike racing, for 20 years, i never had a tire i couldn’t rip of with my hands, and i never rolled a tire.
Pre-treat tubes w/ Orange Seal sealant before mounting
Glue tires on properly for optimal Crr. Three coats of Mastik on tire and three on rim.
Inflate to proper pressure for your weight and road conditions.
Carry Pit Stop fix-a-flat as first line of defense after a flat.
Carry spare CO2
Carry a razor blade.
Find a minimalist track tubular tire and roll it up tight for your spare. Hide it out of the wind.
Eric
I’m getting my first set of proper race wheels for next season. Since I’m no dentist, I don’t have the funds to pop for clincher race wheels and can’t find many good deals on them. But I have found lots of good deals on tubulars that I can start out with for a couple seasons and upgrade to clinchers in the future. I have a super 9 disc right now, and will look to get a 404 for the front when I find the right one.
Without starting a debate, what are the solutions people have used to in case you flat on the course with a tubular regarding spares, sealant, or anything else that you may have done?
Pre-treat tubes w/ Orange Seal sealant before mounting
Glue tires on properly for optimal Crr. Three coats of Mastik on tire and three on rim.
Inflate to proper pressure for your weight and road conditions.
Carry Pit Stop fix-a-flat as first line of defense after a flat.
Carry spare CO2
Carry a razor blade.
Find a minimalist track tubular tire and roll it up tight for your spare. Hide it out of the wind.
Eric
I’m getting my first set of proper race wheels for next season. Since I’m no dentist, I don’t have the funds to pop for clincher race wheels and can’t find many good deals on them. But I have found lots of good deals on tubulars that I can start out with for a couple seasons and upgrade to clinchers in the future. I have a super 9 disc right now, and will look to get a 404 for the front when I find the right one.
Without starting a debate, what are the solutions people have used to in case you flat on the course with a tubular regarding spares, sealant, or anything else that you may have done?
Pre-treat tubes w/ Orange Seal sealant before mounting
Glue tires on properly for optimal Crr. Three coats of Mastik on tire and three on rim.
Inflate to proper pressure for your weight and road conditions.
Carry Pit Stop fix-a-flat as first line of defense after a flat.
Carry spare CO2
Carry a razor blade.
Find a minimalist track tubular tire and roll it up tight for your spare. Hide it out of the wind.
Eric
I agree with all of those apart from no 1. Had a nightmare with those tyres as have quite a few other people. IMO only suited to short races (sprint, OD) and/or races with impeccable roads. That said my first two flats with Corsa Speeds, i didn’t have sealant. #rookieerror. I then had two other flats, one popped, but seemed to hold at around 50 psi, I ended up changing it, but wandered if it got a puncture, lost some air and then the sealant did its job? Should I have just added more C02? 4th flat - I flatted on my Conti Podium TT and changed it to a Corsa Speed (I was only using these as spares now) and that went down slowly over 60kms. Got home and inflated it, rode it and it was fine. So I’m thinking it might have been a leak from the valve extender? So 4 flats, some user error, but I just couldn’t afford to carry on with those tyres. Am on Conti Comp tubs now.
Note OP - changing a tub is much quicker and u have the reassurance there will be no pinch flats etc
Flatted in Ironman with tubulars once. Chesepeakman before it became im Maryland. Carried pitstop and it mostly leaked out big hole in tire. Held enough air for me to finish but maybe only 20 pounds of pressure. Sold tubulars. Pittstop once worked in Olympic distance race and saved my race though. Still would not do Im on them ever again.
I’m reasonably competent when it comes to bike stuff, but had the same problem with pitstop. Watching the instructional video the happy mechanic, cleanly and efficiently empties his pitstop into his tyre, mine was foam pissing everywhere. It looked like I’d peirced a can of shaving foam. I reckon it inflated the tyre by about 20 psi. I’ve watched with interest when anyone else has used it, gaining some satisfaction when they have the same outcome.
Tubulars are my main race wheels since I mainly ride road, but here are my go tos:
Tubulars absolutely need mire TLC. Get used to it. Learn to glue tubulars and remove the glue, you will need to. Goo-Gone is your friend for removing tubular glue.
Choose your tubulars carefully. I wouldn’t go balls to the wall lowest Rolling resistance for tubs for racing, particularly because proper gluing of them takes awhile and if you flat them a day or two before the race you’re stuck racing a sub-optimal spare. For example, I wouldn’t go vittoria corsa speeds because while that is a very fast tub, it’s too fragile. For me, the normal Vittoria Corsa, or Conti Attack/Force Pro Ltd are good choices. Have not touched veloflex as they are a little too pricey for my tastes. Remember to match for rim width. Latex tubes are nice but so few tubulars have them nowadays I would hesitate restricting myself to them alone.
For flat protection, put sealant into the tubular and it is good for 99% of situations. For a spare, get a thin track tubular which is pre-glued and it will fold up nice and small and typically fit under your saddle. Get a small velcro strap, and strap together a CO2 and your choice of razor or tyre lever, depending on how proficient you are with tubs. Put it with your nutrition or wherever you put your spares. Try not to put it under the saddle with the tub because it’s more prone to dropping out, plus you dont want it sticky from the tub glue. Personally I dont like the razor solution too much, with some practice a tyre lever is perfectly enough and it’s not too difficult to end up with bloody hands in a stressful race situation.
No need to carry a vittoria pit stop or caffelatex because you’ve already put sealant in the tyres where it’s needed to be; if that sealant doesnt do it’s job there’s little chance of a pit stop can helping much. If you get a small puncture and the sealant does it’s job you’ll keep riding and there is no need to faff about with a can of sealant, if the sealant does not do it’s job you immediately change the whole tub without wasting time on an unreliable can of sealant.
If you get two flats… well that’s really bad luck and I would say tough luck and call it a day. Really unlikely to get 2 flats unless someone deliberately threw glass on the road or something.
You can send good condition tubs off to tirealert to get them repaired or replaced with a latex tube; I tend to do this when I have collected 3-4 flat tubulars at a go.
I run Continental Gatorskin tubular tires and they are supposed to be very durable but Crr is not good. I wonder what’s the good tire with reasonable puncture resistance and low Crr?