How to fix a Softride Rocket TT

This is not a thread about Softride’s beam delamination issues. I am 135lbs at my heaviest, so that will never be a problem for me. I am considering building the entire beam out of carbon instead of that nasty wide aluminum housing/epoxy mess that they constructed, but I am happy with the machine for the time being.

This is a size Medium 650c frame. The head tube is a gargantuan 45mm wide and 15.5cm tall. There may not be a less aerodynamic head tube available on any TT bike.

Problem #1 on the Rocket is the cable routing. I fixed that by drilling out the frame and running full length cables through the inside, entering behind the stem. This has been posted before.

Problem #2 on this bike (mine specifically, not the design) - I love the Syntace Stratos CX basebar, but it doesn’t allow very much width adjustment and many aerobar options are simply not possible. I like the Profile Sonic CSX bars, but the large size is about 2 cm too short for me. I recently decided to try the Profile Sonic Stryke model, as it uses the same pad/extension concept as the CSX, but with ski bend ends. I dig them quite a bit.

I am still working out the width extension plates to make them fit on the Syntace base bars. As you can see, there are some 1/16" steel plates being used in the picture that allow the bars to be set wide enough to grip my hands on the extensions without touching (but within 1/4" so I can close the gap if I choose). I have a large chunk of 1/8" CF that will be replacing the steel, as they do have a tendency to bend just a little currently. I am also going to glue in thread inserts to remove the exposed nuts you see in the picture. They are the major oversight in frontal area of this design.

Problem #3 and 4 - Cable routing on the Sonic bars stinks and is not easy to hide. The easily could have moved the exit point in the molding process, but it’s not a quick fix with some of the internal structure that they built in. I suspect there is some structural foam in certain places, as the cables cannot go much past their standard exit hole. Additionally, these extensions sit too high above the base bars in the center to accomodate the Jetstream bottle. A Profile bottle works, but doesn’t attache well. To fix both of these (and the head tube shape issue), I decided to build a custom front aero bottle. It holds a 1.8L Platypus hydration bladder. I can put about 50oz in the bag safely.

http://smatrix.com/~cphelps/carbon/100_0789a.jpg

The front and rear brakes are both Zipp from a 2001. The rear has its original fairing cover, while the front has been cut down quite a bit to remove the extra bulk and is now very minimalistic. I have placed the cable stop on top of the stem, with the exposed cable traveling down the head tube to the original cable hanger which is a 1cm square with inset 2.5mm set screw. I haven’t worked out the top cover of the “bottle” as yet. I have a piece of carbon cut out with a bladder hose hole, but I am not sure it’s exactly what I want. I’ll post the final pictures when I figure out exactly how I want to do that. I am also considering some additional width in the carbon area around the front brake to help with airflow over some sharp areas.

http://smatrix.com/~cphelps/carbon/100_0784a.jpg

http://smatrix.com/~cphelps/carbon/100_0791a.jpg

Sure sure, but what does that string on the door knob do?

It just has bells on it. Dings when someone comes in the door.

Chris

Do you live in a diner?

No, but I don’t like to carry keys, so I don’t lock my doors. The bells are there to prevent the parental/family units from stopping by during an in opportune time while the girlfriend is nude or we’re doing things that the parents don’t need to see.

Chris

Wow…and I thought I had too much time on my hands and too many crazy ideas…but being a fellow SR owner I am curious to watch this evolution. Cool fairing…if it gets allowed at races.

Do you have a pic to show the 50.oz fluid bag secure in its holder and using a straw?
Did you buy a sheet of c/f ,what thickness?
Are you using a carbon chain ring?

It’s not a fairing, it’s a water bottle! Volume wise, it’s actually smaller than a Profile Aqua Cell. If you consider that, plus what TJ is getting away with, I suspect I am safe.

I do TT this bike as well, but it’s mostly local stuff where they really don’t care what you ride as long as it’s safe (which this is, compared to the no base bars I’ve ridden in the past.

Chris

No pic of the fluid bag at the moment, but I can take one. It’s secure because there is a bottom and a back inside the holder, so it’s basically sitting in a full carbon housing. Yesterday was my first ride with the system, and I actually clipped the drink tube to my glove with the clip that came with the system. That worked really well, but is probably not what I will do for racing. I would like to create something that doesn’t have the straw sticking up all the time.

I did the CF myself. I have several yards that I bought for a Zipp 2001 repair job that didn’t take very much material. The mold for the CF was a non-pressure based system.
Basically I just created the frontal profile I wanted (1 1/2" round section with a 4mm triangular bump to create a nice airfoil section and some additional width at the 1/3 chord dimension to make it’s shape more correct and add capacity to the water bladder area.

The chainring is an old 50 tooth Specialized ring with a carbon fairing. Made that myself as well. FSA doesn’t sell anything under a 53, and I prefer the 50 for flat time trials. I ride in a 50/13 with 13 tooth rear pulleys, so everything is spinning at the same rate. I doubt it matters, but maybe it’s worth another watt. The chainring guide is just a carved up piece of nylon cutting board. I will do that out of CF evenually as well. 180mm FSA Krono cranks.

Chris

Personally, i love it. I loved softrides too, but at 195 lbs i ate 2 beams and that was it. I am however building up a zipp 2001 as my winter project.

Question- there is some sort of offical standard for front waterbottles- they have to fit thorugh some sort of hole (check the TJ threads). Have you tried to get yours through? is it even removable?

Have you tested your rig? how mcuh faster thana normal softride is it?

well done!

N

  1. Given the height and width of the Aqua Cell, this “bottle” would be legal". Not super easy to remove from the bike, as there are two zip ties used, as well as velcro along the aerobar interface.

  2. I don’t know how much faster than a standard Rocket TT this machine is, as I don’t have both to test side by side. I gained about 6-8 watts with the original cable routing improvements. The front bottle setup on average looked to be about 10 watts better than what I have observed before with a single downtube bottle under similar conditions. That was not a very scientific study though, just comparing averages without regard to second by second wind conditions and such.

Chris

Seriously- you should be congratulated- i love the stuff you are doing. I personally think im goign to buy one of TJs rhino things for my zipp.

I just checked back on the rule you mentioned in the TJ thread. It will definitely pass through the 8" x 10" square, though it may need to be pushed through as a top to bottom rather than right-side-up.

I can tell you that it majorly fixes this machine. I could have just done the brake like it is and used Vision bars with a Jetstream bottle like on my P3 and Zipp, but I wanted this one to be a little more custom. The other bikes are very fast without the additional work, but as of right now cannot beat the softie. I suspect that with just a little front end work, the P3 would be close. I need to build a fairing to hide blunt the head tube to a proper shape, and then hide the shift cables between the top tube and where they enter the down tube. I’ll get to that eventually, but it will definitely be a fairing rather than a water bottle in that case.

Chris

Personally, i love it. I loved softrides too, but at 195 lbs i ate 2 beams and that was it.
Just one more data point… I’m ~210 and I’ve been riding the same beam for the past 10 years.

I got a nickel that told me that you have an Alu beam, or a non Rockett beam.

You’re right…

I’m on a roadwing with a carbon beam. The problem’s just with rocket beams?

Great job!
I’m in the middle of a similar aero bottle project with my P3C.
Just have to finish the mould before carbon lay-up.
Congrats!

Yes, the issue is only with the RockeTT beams, and 99% of those with the Carbon beams.

If you ever need a new beam, let me know - I have a few floating around (old style non rockett)

I’ll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks.

If you ever build a few of those full carbon beams to market…keep me in mind…you do some pretty sweet work.