Getting my race wheels ready for IMAZ and noticed that one was flat the other day. Actually one was flat and one was low. Aired both of them up and one was flat within an hour. The other one is fine. So, I started the process of changing the tire. It took me 10 minutes in the comfort of my living room to get the tire off. I can’t imagine having to do that during a race - let alone my first IM. I can change a clincher in about 2 to 3 minutes.
I’ve got about 350 miles on the wheels (2007 Zipp 606’s) and this is the first time I’ve had problems with them. The current tires themselves have about 100 miles on them and were put on new in October 2007.
So, what am I doing wrong? Any tips and tricks out there to help with this? I’m now very nervous for IMAZ. So nervous that I’m starting to think about renting some clinchers from racedaywheels and selling my 606’s.
Couple of things 1 was your spare pre stretched? If not pre stretch your spare that will make it alot easier to get on. As far as taking off the tire with a leak in it if its during a race I keep a razor blade taped to the side of my seat post to cut the tire off & pull it off the rim,or if things get really bad I can just slit my wrists instead! Hope this helps. Also do you prefill your Tubbies with a gu like pit stop?
Like the other poster said. Razor to cut, and a nice pre-stretched pre-glued spare. Even with that i have trouble getting them on sometimes, particularly with a disk, so i race with a single lever just in case i’m having trouble.
You have discovered the dilemna of riding tubulars. They are light, but you have to deal with the downsides as well. Rick Ashburn wrote an article for this site talking about what slows you down riding a bike and made some pretty good observations. Basically, you have to glue your tubulars on so tight and hard that they won’t come off quickly in a race. Otherwise the rolling resistence goes way up and you are losing ground. I would recommend you glue them on very well and then use some kind of flat goo like others have mentioned. Before I ditched my tubulars I used a little bottle with a head small enough to squirt Slime into the valve. I also think that a little syringe like you might use to feed a baby medicine might work to get the anti-flat stuff in as well.
Chad
Zipp’s website used to have a good article on how to glue a tubular. I printed it out 4 years ago and I refer to it when it comes time to change a tubular. Usually it just takes brute force to get the tubular to start coming off, then the rest rips off easily. I’ve seen that a lot of people leave a small 1-2" area opposite the valve stem without glue to aid the process. Someone had a good suggestion in this forum, instead of changing the tubular carry a sealant and a valve stem removing tool which would block a hole without having to take the tubular off. I would certainly carry a spare for an IM, but I plan on doing Cali 70.3 with sealant only. It works pretty good. Tufo sells a 50 gm bottle with a small nozzle that fits in the valve perfect. It also comes with a valve stem remover for free! Practice first! You can also put a small amount in pre race which may seal small holes on the fly and can help identify where your leak is. Good Luck!
You definetly want to have the tires pre stretched otherwise you will be in trouble. Don’t glue about 1-1/2 to 2" of the tire and mark it with a sharpie so you know where to start and can get it off easier. Practice, practice, practice taking them off and putting them on if you are really worried about it. It shouldn’t take more than 2-3 minutes once you get it down. I never carried a razor but a small piece of wire or something you can stick into the valve stem to get all the air out if you have a small leak. If you can get at the stem it is not needed but with Zipp or other deep dish wheels it is a must. Clinchers take more time than tubulars IMO.
Thanks for the responses. It seems like carrying a razor blade might be the best option. And yes, I did put some of the Tufo sealant in the tire when I originally put it on back in October. I’m guessing that’s what got me through my 1/2 IM.
I’ll second (or third) the idea of using a razor to facilitate changing a tubular during a race. My only race flat ever happened during the torrential downpour at Mightyman 2006; it took me less than three minutes to get back on the road, and this was my back wheel. I grew up riding tubies, so for me changing them is far easier than futzing with a clincher/tube nightmare.
Don’t be nervous, just leave the spare tubular at home and bring along some Vittoria Pit Stop on race day. I’ve used it, it inflates the wheel to about 90-100psi and you’ll get to T2. And it takes about 20 seconds to get it done.
That’s only good for punctures though, right? What happens if you have a “bad” flat?
What about on a disc?
tape a razor blade under the saddle, if you get a flat cut the tire, stick one finger into the tube of the tire and pull it off. After that remove the tire from the bike and put on the spare tire hit it with some co2 bolt it back on and ride. Should take about 1 min.
I am also a newby to tubulars, I have wondered about changing them in the rain, will the residual glue on the rim stick to wet base tape ? Is it necessary to store your spare tubular in a watertight bag ?
I’m glad somebody brought this up because I keep forgetting to ask it. I have the same concerns as the original poster…and much of this has helped ease my mind (hell…I suck at changing clinchers as it is). I bought a set of Zipps 3 years ago and probably put less than 500 miles on them since. They are race day only. I have a pre-stretched, pre-glues, pre-everything…bundled up in Xlab velcro. They have been in that position for…yes, 3 years. I am worried enough about getting a flat with the tubs as it is, especially in an important race where I’m doing well. My “other” fear is, what kind of condition is that spare in after 3 years?
How long does the adhesive property last in a spare? Is there a proper way I should store it when I’m not racing?